Das Ninjabot Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 And the timing is done! I got a cam holding tool that made doing this in the car much easier. One of those things that got me annoyed that I didn't make it myself, but damn, its golden. There are a few things to button up, but the danger ride was successful and I can now move it out of the garage and move the Galaxie in to begin that build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 Does anyone have experience with chassis grounds? I've got a few electric issues that I'm guessing could be ground related, but I'm not sure. My wing mirrors don't adjust, even though there is power to the switch (could be a bad switch), my rear defrost doesn't work (though the light on the button comes on), sometimes the drivers window likes to continue making noise after it's all the way up (like it has hit it's stop but still tries to go up for a second), and the door locks do not like to unlock (tried 3 switches). It all seems like stuff that could be due to a bad ground(s). Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Given where you live there is a good chance. I'd say pick one of those failure items. Check the FSM for the power and grounds wiring section for that circuit to locate it in the car. Unscrew the fastener and use a stainless steel brush to clean it to bare metal. The sheet metal, the fastener, and the wire's ring terminal. Find out from parts guy/google what you should paint or spray on there for corrosion protection while still allowing current. Screw it back in and test. I did this for both front strut towers years back when having some very weird engine troubles, except I'm in AZ so I didn't do the corrosion step. In my case the problem ended up being jumped timing, so this didn't help, but I feel better about having done it (and added some additional 8g from block, intake, and trans). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Given where you live there is a good chance. I'd say pick one of those failure items. Check the FSM for the power and grounds wiring section for that circuit to locate it in the car. That does seem to be the next logical step. I did the engine ground "upgrade" as well, and was hoping there was something similar for the chassis. Thanks for the nudge to do it the right way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 New brake light issue popped up the other day. A friend was following me home after a round of golf and told me that my brake lights weren't working at all. Rather than dig into wiring right away, I decided to throw in a new brake light switch and then go from there. After the new switch was installed (and adjusted) the brake lights stay on all the time. I was in a bit of a hurry after it was installed and decided that I'd mess with it after running an errand or three. I unplugged the switch and jumped in the other car to go, and noticed that my brake lights were still on. I ended up pulling the negative battery cable to turn them off. Anyone have anything similar to this before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I don't know about ours, but there are some brake light switches that auto adjust and if you adjust them too far they are stuck on. Best bet would be to use a multimeter to check the switch out after pulling it and inspecting it for mechanical motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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