Post Battery issues, issues.....

[Prmdc1]

So about 8 months ago I had a battery issue and cleaned up the terminals and all was good, but the rear driver's side window would no longer go up. Wierd.. I jumped the control unit and the window went up. I left the window disconnected. Well, two days ago my battery finally kicked the bucket and bought a brand new shiny one. As I headed off about my day, my drivers' window would only roll up and down manually. The auto will not work. I then tried to roll down other windows and they didn't work either. I can roll them down on that door, but not from the drivers' side. I also noticed that my auto driver's seat positions are not working. Not that I use them much..

[Scooby Fan]

I had almost the exact same issues on my 2013 3.6R and my wife's 2012 2.5i when I replaced the batteries a few weeks ago. There is an easy fix detailed in your owners manual..... Took less than 5 minutes to clear it in both cars. Check your manual

[tmoney468]

Any time the battery is pulled, you need to roll down the drivers and passenger front windows:

 

Hold down until the window is all the way down, and hold down for an extra 2-3 seconds. Then, hold up u til the window is closed, and hold for an extra 2-3 seconds. This resets the auto up down and the rear windows.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ammcinnis]

See the 2015 Legacy/Outback Owners Manual, page 2-36: Initialization of Power Window.

 

There is also a recently-issued TSB (07-152-19R) that describes new/revised window switches for all MY 2012-2019 Legacys and Outbacks. Switch replacement will be covered under the 3/36 warranty or a Subaru Added Security plan, else you will have to pay out of pocket.

[gathermewool]

See the 2015 Legacy/Outback Owners Manual, page 2-36: Initialization of Power Window.

 

There is also a recently-issued TSB (07-152-19R) that describes new/revised window switches for all MY 2012-2019 Legacys and Outbacks. Switch replacement will be covered under the 3/36 warranty or a Subaru Added Security plan, else you will have to pay out of pocket.

 

I might bring that up the next time my Legacy is in for warranty work (Gold Plus extended warranty).

 

I tried to get the dealer to replace my head-unit due to visible squiggly touch-screen lines, even in dim light, but they said it was normal. Maybe another dealer will just swap it out....along with performing this TSB

[ammcinnis]

I might bring that up the next time my Legacy is in for warranty work (Gold Plus extended warranty).

Remember, the dealer is only permitted to warranty defects that they can observe and verify.

 

I tried to get the dealer to replace my head-unit due to visible squiggly touch-screen lines, even in dim light, but they said it was normal.

Not true. Refer them to TSB 15-177-14R (12/14/2017 and later revisions), page 36. Note that for the display to be considered defective the grid pattern must be visible over the entire screen area, under varied lighting conditions, and whether the head unit is on or off. It is "normal" for the grid to become visible in direct sunlight.

 

Edited April 16, 2020 by ammcinnis

[gathermewool]

I’ll try again. They were proactive in notifications me about a previous recall, so I tried to diplomatically play the, “isn’t there a TSB for that?” game instead of LGT’ing it with a full print-out (and pages of forum discussion j/k).

[Prmdc1]

Thank you all for guiding me to the window reset. It fixed everything including my memory seats. My question is why? Why is this even a thing?

[ammcinnis]

Why is this even a thing?

For the same reason that most desktop computers still have a small coin-cell battery on the motherboard. See "volatile memory" or "CMOS memory."

Edited April 16, 2020 by ammcinnis

[madmax988]

So I have a similar problem. My 2016 2.5i premium was rear-ended (nothing was repaired in front of the rear quarter panels, and I never had any problems before. Since the repair work was done I've been having window issues. At first the drivers window would not go auto up/down and would only move about an inch on each click down or up, but the passenger side was fine. I did the window initialization and it fixed it. But a day later it stopped working correctly again. Sometimes it'll work fine, other times it only moves an inch at at a time, sometimes it goes down fine, but only goes up an inch at a time. It's driving me crazy. Then the front passenger window started doing the same thing. Sometimes the passenger window only responds to it's own switch and not the drivers side control switch. Another weird thing is it seems 1 of the windows always works fine, and 1 will be screwy, but both are never screwy at the same time.

 

Any ideas what's going?

 

Any ideas of what else I could try?

 

Trying to avoid going back to the dealership before the social distancing lockdown has ended, but they said they'd need to see it to diagnosis it.

[JJBerk]

My Windows did the same thing (2017 OB 3.6R), and fixed with the above mentioned reset. However I also lost the ‘combination meter’ at the top of my dash (MPG, etc controlled by info/set button on steering wheel). Any thoughts suggestions here? Thanks.

[lotadisa]

I’ll try again. They were proactive in notifications me about a previous recall, so I tried to diplomatically play the, “isn’t there a TSB for that?” game instead of LGT’ing it with a full print-out (and pages of forum discussion j/k).

 

Hold down until the window is all the way down, and hold dow Kodi nox n for an extra 2-3 seconds. Then, hold up u til the window is closed, and hold for an extra 2-3 seconds. This resets the auto up down and the rear windows.

Edited May 19, 2020 by lotadisa

[madmax988]

So the weirdest thing is now my windows seem to randomly be fine. Do you think it's possible they just needed to be reset a whole bunch of times before it worked? Or is it more likely this issue is going to pop up again later?