madmax988

Because the subarus awd system is incredibly sensitive. I belive most recommend no tires having more than 2/16 variation between tires buy my dealership said 4/16 was fine (I'm 90% sure my numbers are right but it was a few years ago so without pulling my service records I'd have to double check). I always assumed that just meant you'd risk excess tire wear or in an extreme case damage to the awd transfer box/ transmission. But in my case the difference between front and rear was enough to cause a weird pull to the right that dealership couldn't solve. Car manuals usually want all 4 tires replaced at same time (which is rarely practical for most people) but with most cars it's bs cover their ass statements. But with the subaru awd it definitely has at least some truth to it. Assuming the prime wells were even within spec enough to be the exact same size when they were brand new they might have also worn differently if you've had them for years now (how many miles have you driven? ). I would definitely check tread depth inner middle and outer on all 4 tires and see if they are all even. You can use a depth gauge or just a pocketful of loose change to check for an approximate estimate. Also in terms of tires wearing the warranties are never great so cheap manufacturers will put some insane number like this is an 80,000 mile tire! When literally nobody has ever gone that far on a set of them. Even brand name tires rarely hit their warranty numbers even when they are more reasonable like 30,000-60,000 miles

The explanation as far as my limited understanding about these issues, (I have no idea what adjustments are and are not available on our legacies). Is that the steering wheel can be aligned off center... my old jeep was like this the steering wheel would be cooked at like a 45 degree turn when you wanted it to drive straight. But what you seem to be describing isn't that the wheel isn't aligned to steering, instead the car pulls to the right and causes the steering wheel to turn a few degrees. Something is causing it to pull to the right. I only suggest tires because I had this exact issue and 2 tires on back, I forget the exact number but I think they were like maybe 3-4/16 smaller than 2 new tires on front and that was enough to cause 95% of my pull to the right. Your car mightve been out of alignment or had a worn component with original tires. And when you put the prime wells on the problem was still there/or it was fixed, but after the tires had already worn funny. Or might even have a slightly defective tire. Tires do weird things sometimes I once had a brand name tire randomly after 2 years and like only 10k miles develop a huge softball sized bulge in the sidewall, but for 6 months it just caused a weird shake at certain speeds and no mechanic could spot the slight manufacturer defect.

I had a similar problem. It started after I was rear ended and dealership kept saying it was perfectly aligned and I was crazy. What annoys me is a year later I replaced 2 more tires, they had told me not to replace all 4 because 2 were still fine...well after I replaced the 2 other tires and now had 4 tires that were all much closer in tread depth suddenly 95% of my pulling problem went away. My guess is the awd system is very sensitive to even small tire differences. All my tires were the original OEM spec tires, I had gotten off schedule on replacing all 4 at same time due to blowing 2 relatively new tires at the same time due to driving over a chunk of metal debris. Still the dealership was ridiculous that they never thought to just sell me 2 more tires when I kept complaining that it wasn't aligned. Edit- I just googled primewell those are some super cheapo chinese (technically singapore tires), I would definitely buy some better safer tires before I spent $100's on alignments. Chinese tires are pretty scary when they randomly decide to disintegrate while your driving, I speak from experience, you get what you pay for.

I have the same problem, It bugs me, but not enough to spend to replace the entire lid, it's annoying that just because it's not quite springy enough anymore it doesn't work, if it stuck out like a 2 mm further it would work. But $230! and having the replace the entire lid is absurd just to fix a plastic tab.

Assuming the OP actually means 1000-1500 rpms it could be something to do with idle, like a mass airflow sensor or idle air control module.

Yea it's definitely the female socket. I've tried a bunch of different plugs that all work prefect in other cars and in the armrest center console 12v. It works if you wiggle the plug around and push it in and hold it just so. But otherwise the plugs kind of pop out or slightly angle themselves. Vacation pixels is definitely my friend but they are a little unclear on what the minimum amount of parts you have to remove to access it for replacement. I found someone posted a link to accessory socket that replaces it with cigarette lighter part number instead of standard 12v power outlet part #. Those instructions use a bunch of symbols that I guess are indicating a whole bunch of tabs and trim hooks that you have to pop off and remove...those are such a pain since I never manage to do it without breaking at least 1 and ending up having to hunt down some exotic part# of a piece of plastic lol. It doesn't seem worth it to disassemble half the dash to replace it...when it still technically works.

so after testing it with more plugs I think the problem is the spring loaded tip doesn't always point straight to hit the positive terminal which is also a small point. It seems almost like the socket is too tight so the plugs shift side to side at an angle. I wonder if maybe the socket has become slightly oval instead of perfectly round? Has anyone replaced the socket? does anyone know how much of the dash I have to disassemble to replace it?

It happens with multiple 12volt plugs and some of them are brand new anker ones with solid bars of spring loaded medal (not the cheap flat metal prongs) so I don't think that's the problem. The surface seems to be shiny and uncorrected. I have a 12v air pump that is super picky about plugs being perfect and it works fine (doesn't work in other cars with rusty outlets, or anything that isn't perfectly round). It just stops working randomly. It's almost like maybe the voltage is going to high or low and causing adapters to cut off and replugging them resets them? I'd like to take a look at the back to make sure the connections are tight, but the instructions in the stolen/ online service manual are a little unclear about how much work it actually is to get back there. Would continuity change when it goes out? or is it a binary works/is grounded or doesn't work/isn't grounded. Because it works perfect until it doesn't and then resets immediately.

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm having a similar problem with my 2016. My front power outlet the one located at bottom of dashboard, works intermittently. The arm rest outlet works just fine. What's weird is the front outlet will work and then randomly stop working but if you remove 12v plug and plug it back in it will start working again. This happens with all of the plugs I've tried and all of them work perfectly in other cars and in armrest 12v. It's bizarre. I've checked the fuses for 12v and cigar and they all look good and I tried swapping in the extra fuses subaru included in. Still no luck. It's just weird because it'll work perfectly find for 2mins-30mins then stop working 100% and then as soon as you unplug/replug it works again? Thanks for any help

I ended up using chemical guys interior detailer spray. It took a lot of it, but I got 99% off. Didn't want to risk goo gone. The chemical guys interior spray does smell like a pina colada though, but it only lasted a few days. I'm a big fan of having my phone where I can see and tap it without taking eyes off of road for very long, from my days of driving LYFT, I use mounts with long 8 inch extensions, so you end up with the phone basically next to your steering wheel, so very little/no view is blocked. I use waze but with no audio so seeing was always important. I never understand the people who mount them to windshield up high and far away, that blocks your view and you have to lean way forward to tap it. The new mount I'm about to try is actually a scosche magentic wireless charger mount to make life even easier.

TL:DR is goo gone safe for dashboard? I have a 2016 legacy premium. I had a iottie 4 dashboard phone mounted. It was actually my 2nd one. The 1st one lasted about a year before it broke. The 2nd one the reusable sticky /adhesive suction cup material actually completely melted after about 18 months from living in South Florida. So I need to clean the melted goop off the dashboard (and one of the a/c vents and vent on/off knob where it dripped down). The instruction for the mount are to use fishing line and a credit card to remove the residue, but obviously they attend for that to happen when it's more of a solid and less of a liquid. Oddly it's been about a year since it melted and I removed the mount, and I figured eventually wiping it with just wet clothes and my standard interior wipes would clean it, but its held strong. Even worse it picks up dust and fibers like crazy. 1st question Is goo gone safe for use on the dashboard? goo gone claims its safe for plastic and vinyl, but not rubber, and they say in some places its safe for dashboards but also say to test in inconspicuous area. 2nd question does anyone have any better recommendations of what to use to get it off without destroying dashboard material? or making it so slippery that a future phone mount won't stick?. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I don't have eyesight, but I obviously have EBD. what's ACC? So I spoke with the service advisor again, and she said my original 2 tires with 39,000 miles are at "3/10" and my 2 tires I replaced @ 12,000 miles are at "7/10" and that their system is as long as they are within 3 its fine. So I would be 10/10 and 7/10 after replacing 2. I asked what are those 10'ths of an inch? millimeters? she said no they rate them on a 10 point scale. I've never heard of such a thing. She said the same thing about a 10 point scale for brakes Told me my front brakes are 5/10 and rears are 3/10. Has anyone ever heard of this system? is there anyway to convert it to an actual measurement? lol I've never thought of tires in terms of circumference, only in mm of tread remaining. a 1/4 inch sounds like it would be pretty small. hmm doing a little research brought me to https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18 where they say "Subaru Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth." Is it really possible I haven't used up more than 2/32 in 26,000miles? Although it seems odd the dealer didn't jump at the chance to sell me 4 tires when I said I was open to it. I ended up so far agreeing to do all the work with 2 tires for $900. Does it make sense to always resurface the rotors when you do brake pads like the dealership claimed they do? I've never resurfaced rotors on other cars I've owned only replaced rotors that had gone bad, although I will say at times I had brakes that definitely made some noise but usually it was later near the end of the cars life with me so I never bothered fixing it. If the rotors and pads are $187 than I guess $330 isn't too outrageous for doing the work, although still on the high side. $600 is nuts, if they'd asked $600 I definitely would've gone to my local mechanic instead, even if he isn't a subaru expert, it's not like the brakes are any different than any others cars. Yea it's always cheaper to do it yourself, but I've learned what I am and am not qualified to do myself, lol. 1 too many times having to have my car towed to mechanic to fix something I broke or got stuck in half way through the job because I end up not having the right tool, or can't get some rusted part unstuck. I hope it wasn't non-synthetic oil in the 6th gen 4 cylinder, it specially requires synthetic. I'd say you'd have the right to be severely po'ed if that happened.

I'd also make sure to read fine print on what "lifetime" means. It doesn't mean your lifetime... Often it can mean something like "expected lifetime under normal conditions" which can be any number they specify in the fine print. I got my 2016 CPO in 2018 and it came with a $500 coupon for a new subaru purchased before 2022 I'm guessing that's what it is. Although they didn't advertise it and I doubt its actually worth anything given almost all dealers offer $500 loyalty for sticking with the same brand. (and they also often offer "rival acquisition" money that can be $500 or more for switching from a close rivals car, say an accord for a legacy) If the dealer already posted carfax report then that's it there's only 1 kind of carfax report. Although if the car was serviced at the dealership sometimes they can give you a tiny bit more info. Also with mileage and year warranties make sure it ask if the date starts when you buy it, or when it was originally sold. 100k from when you buy it is very different from 100k total. At the end of the day though, I'd never buy a car because of a warranty it's a nice emergency bonus, but it's not really worth much financially in reality if the car is in good shape to start with. Another good thing with subarus is you also get the remaining original warranty that's much more inclusive than powertrain if it still has left of the 3 year/36,000 mile. Another option if the CPO/lifetime is costing the dealership money (sometimes they have to pay extra to certify it cpo). You can try negotiating to buy it not cpo and just save money upfront.

That's a significant oil loss. Do you notice oil on concrete when you park? Try placing a large piece of cardboard under car at night and see in the morning if there are any leaks. Next time it's in for an oil change ask them to look for leaks. Have you been using synthetic oil? Even if you only find a small drop on the cardboard after sitting, you'd be surprised how much oil might be leaking when the engine is running. How do you feel the bottom of the engine? on my 2016 there is a plastic air deflector that covers most of the underbody. Another problem is oil often doesn't go straight down, so finding the source can be almost anywhere even if the spot on cardboard is halfway to the rear wheels.

I drove over a hunk of metal in 2018 and had to have both left rims replaced due to baseball sized dents in them. My dealership ended up being fairly reasonable on the price. I believe they were about $200 for the actual rim and then with the accessory pieces like the dust caps(which you may or may not be able to transfer if they are fine) and labor it ended up like $500ish for both of them, so like $250ish per wheel. Although mine were 17" and I think yours are 18". A used rim might be cheaper if you can find a good one, but if your local place doesn't have one, I found once you add in shipping the new OEM ones aren't much different in price. Rim repair in my mind would only ever be worth it if it was very cheap and very minor. Whenever I've had a car with a an aluminum alloy rim with a tiny dent in it, it ends up driving you crazy, because it'll be fine for months and then suddenly 1 day you'll walk out of work to a flat tire, and the tire shop will fill it back up, clean a little light rust off the interior rim and tell you the tire is fine....until the next time it goes down on you. Plus since you never know when it'll randomly leak you end up wearing tires way faster.