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RSB install- so close

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I rec'd the 20mm RSB yesterday and had hopes for a quick removal/install today before heading out - but it is not to be.


i hit the bolts with pb blaster just in case - started to loosen them and it was only then that i noticed that the upper bolt on the end link (where it connects to the RSB) just spins. I searched the site and i found one write up that said you need a thin open end wrench or 'duck billed' adj wrench. I have a thin pair of vice grips I may try later.


On the plus side, all the bolts were loosened and re-tightened so when i do have the write tool it should be an easy off effort.

I will say however, that when looking at it, i didn't really see where a thin open end wrench would fit or that it would stop anything from spinning - as it didn't appear to be a 17mm back end on the bolt.

This is for a 2015 - am i missing something easy?

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... am i missing something easy?

It may or may not be easy, but there should be a recessed hex in the end link stud. If so, a simple hex (i.e. Allen) wrench is all that's required.

Edited by ammcinnis

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)


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I have changed many RSB on Legacys and other Subaru models .....the easy way is to remove the actual sway bar clamp bolts and then the bottom end link bolts that go though the lower control arm.....take the whole thing onto a work bench and take off the end links....put the end links onto the new bar and then go back under the car and put it back together. Last one I did was on Scooby Too's Legacy....took a total of 20 min and did not generate any scuffed knuckles ;)

It does require a small Allen key to hold the end link bolt, but so much easier on a bench than under the car where there is no room.

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It may or may not be easy, but there should be a recessed hex in the end link stud. If so, a simple hex (i.e. Allen) wrench is all that's required.


It appears to be a 5mm end. And now i need a new one.

I had used an allen wrench/key to start and that would torque out when turning the nut. I then found i had a 5mm socket and tried that but it was too late, the inside was too far rounded.

Next up is to either use vice grips and destroy it or to cut it off and destroy it and then get new bolts.

Crap - had hoped it would be a 30 min job - should have known better.


I had used some PB blaster on it earlier but apparently it wasn't enough.


So much for fun driving this weekend.


As for the lower end removal - i was able to easily get that nut of but i'm not quite sure how to safely pry it out. I've only got the car up on ramps so i don't have too much wiggle room.

thanks for the input so far!

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I should have paid more attention to what Scooby Fan suggested - i ended up removing the lower bolts to get the dang thing off - much easier.

I then had more space and ability to remove the nuts...which certainly helped with leverage etc, but i did have some casualties. Both hex ends were rounded internally and i mangled one of the rubber boots.

I had tried doing some relief cuts in one end to use a larger screwdriver to anchor vs. the bolt - that partially worked. The final solution was to just use some narrow vice grips the hold behind the bar flange and slowly remove the nuts. (thus the torn boot)

Once they were both off i used a wire brush on the dremel to clean off the threads and then re-attached and removed a few times to work it so it was eventually easier to re-install.

The install went fairly quickly as expected, and the removal as expected caused a cut or two and lots of swearing.

So, for those looking to do this, take the thing off with the end links attached and then figure out how to remove the nuts easily. I will now be shopping for new end links for an eventual re-install.

Test drive will be soon.

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