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bowenx

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    Nutmeg State
  • Car
    2015 Legacy 3.6R

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  1. Hello folks - a few weeks back i was driving and ran over a stick and i wouldn't have thought much of it however the car made an odd sound for that action. Immediately while i was thinking the sound was odd the dash indicator light went on for the parking brake (flashing) and the info center indicated there was an issue. After poking around and getting some info via one of the FB groups it was determined to be a loose cable from the parking brake actuator. i was able to pop it back and was on my way. That saved me a trip to the dealer. However, since then it has popped off one or two times and i've since used something like safety wire to ensure it stays put. Other than that - are there other fixes out there? a new clip perhaps? What have you done to fix that? the design does seem a bit iffy as that particular electrical connection hangs low and does seem to be exposed to sticks and other random stuff you may accidentally drive over. thanks for any input.
  2. Thanks for the info. I reviewed the diagrams and noted where i was to pry/push. I moved the mirror so i could see behind it better..i saw the clip spots and gave it a firm press and click! It went back in. I havent driven it yet but it seems to have done the trick. Thanks
  3. I tried to push it back in a few times...nothing snapped in. I can move it so that there is a gap i will be able to look in to hopefully see if broken or not. Not looking forward to having to take it all apart as i am not confident it will separate to the fixable level vs replace it. Need to look a bit more...it was too cold to spend time messing with it.
  4. It isnt the entire housing...just the mirror. Its like a connector was knocked loose so it isnt as anchored. The motor still works but it wont line up correctly.
  5. I had a pvc pipe on my roof rack roll off during unloading and it fell on the mirror. The housing is cracked and the mirror didnt crack/shatter however it has come loose and now jiggles all the time. Has anybody had a similar issue? It seems like it will be a royal pain to get the assembly off to then try and fix...so looking for ideas before i attempt anything. Thanks
  6. Yep...that was the one. Used to seeing modded wrxs around here but never a leggy. Like the front lip and grill and rear spoiler.
  7. Saw a 6th gen today at Tower Storage cars and coffe today. Had several mods...front lip, rear spoiler, front grill, some aluminum paddle shifters, and diff wheels. Crazy turnout with loads of really nice cars in upper lot and scattered around the site.
  8. I can fit two bikes and a kayak. No dents yet. I think total combined weight is only 100 or less. Have the yak towers and round bars (mainly as i had the bike racks already from my wrx)
  9. Not today...but yesterday i vac'd and detailed the interior. All nice and clean again. Not bothering to do exterior until rain stops. Need to get a quote from a Dent Wizard place for the acorn dimples from prior years.
  10. Currently, yes I am. Car has approx 46k miles on it, bone stock except the 20mm RSB that i installed this weekend.
  11. Dumb question, which ones did you select? It doesnt show a forester or legacy as an option? Assuming they would be compatible with wrx rotors? Thanks Edit:i see it says legacy in upper right and in url. And ability to select via home page.
  12. I should have paid more attention to what Scooby Fan suggested - i ended up removing the lower bolts to get the dang thing off - much easier. I then had more space and ability to remove the nuts...which certainly helped with leverage etc, but i did have some casualties. Both hex ends were rounded internally and i mangled one of the rubber boots. I had tried doing some relief cuts in one end to use a larger screwdriver to anchor vs. the bolt - that partially worked. The final solution was to just use some narrow vice grips the hold behind the bar flange and slowly remove the nuts. (thus the torn boot) Once they were both off i used a wire brush on the dremel to clean off the threads and then re-attached and removed a few times to work it so it was eventually easier to re-install. The install went fairly quickly as expected, and the removal as expected caused a cut or two and lots of swearing. So, for those looking to do this, take the thing off with the end links attached and then figure out how to remove the nuts easily. I will now be shopping for new end links for an eventual re-install. Test drive will be soon.
  13. It took me ages before i had pressed hard enough on the gas to where i felt them. I think now that cars with cvt are more common they could do away with them. As for the paddle shifters, i thought i was going to use them all the time but found i only use them like 1%. Using them kills the mpg and the engine doesnt seem to enjoy the higher revs. What i do like is the smooth linear acceleration. That being said i am also glad for other toys that let me shift for real.
  14. I am no subie tech but would expect it to "normalize" if you go back to rolling in to the throttle for your driving. Should only stay how it is if you keep gunning it from the start. Good you had it checked out to confirm. Would assume if you stuck to a standard break in period for the first few thousand miles all would be normal.
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