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Clutch Work, Any and All Advice


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Hey All,

 

So I've been trying to peruse through this site gathering as much info as needed so that when it comes time to replace the clutch I won't sound like a complete idiot.... Well the time is near and I still know nothing. Hoping to find some kind words from you all about what I might need/experience/any advice really - please don't yell if I posted this in the wrong place or that there are 100 other threads to read from because I have read a lot but seek explicit directions for my case (^idiot here when it comes to mechanics).

 

So I have a 2010 LGT with 130k miles that I bought about 2 years ago and am nearing the end of the life span for the clutch(slipping in 3rd+ with somewhat hard pulls as well as a shortened engagement point). I have an V3 Accessport and Invidia DP with OTS tune. The only other thing I may do is get full TBE with a custom tune (would love to find out any reputable tuners near me too, Beacon NY.) I do not have the capabilities nor the know how to replace myself. I have NO good/trustworthy mechanics. So my concerns really are:

 

1) Anyone know of/ had any dealings with a mechanic roughly within my area, 12524? (open to all suggestions)

 

2) What else should I have done at the same time? I've tried to look this up - Spark Plugs, Clutch Damper Valve Delete, Rear Main Seal Inspection, ARP Head Studs, Throwout bearing and sleeve repair kit. (Anything I should add or get rid of? Again, I know nothing! -Ygritte voice) <--Really hoping someone gets this.

 

 

3) The clutch in my old 04 WRX and this LGT have always been stiff, IDK if that's my luck or a Subie thing but when looking for a replacement clutch I don't want it super stiff but beggars can't be choosers. I'll need it to be able to hold whatever torque I would be putting out with just a full TBE and custom tune (IDK numbers but maybe you do?)

 

Options for a clutch that seemed to be best reviewed:

 

South Bend FJK1001-HD- OFE

 

and

 

Exedy Stage 1 Kit

 

Maybe even if it would hold the Torque/HP a stock clutch from Subaru? (IDK if it's slipping due to age or simply power output right now)

 

4) Lastly, any great tuners in my area as well - and do I need to wait until after the clutch break-in period to tune the car?

 

Thanks for any/ all help you can give!

 

Ian

 

PS. if I posted this in the wrong spot I'm sorry! Please direct me to the right one so I can copy and paste this again...

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Either clutch will serve you well, the difference in clamping load is fairly small. Exedy makes the stock one so the quality will be just as good. Some people (like me) have stuck with the stock clutch out of fear of shredding a gear in the transmission. Whether that will be the case I don't know, but I haven't heard of any failures with a stock clutch yet. There have been some with upgraded clutches.

 

While you are in there you should upgrade the clutch fork and pivot and throwout bearing.

 

Otherwise, if the engine is coming out it would make sense to do a regasket of the engine at this mileage along with the timing belt and components. ARP studs if you want and headgaskets.

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1) Anyone know of/ had any dealings with a mechanic roughly within my area, 12524? (open to all suggestions)

I'd post in your local forum, or maybe better (since there is more traffic) the appropriate local forum on NASIOC, for recommendations for that and for a good local tuner.

2) What else should I have done at the same time? I've tried to look this up - Spark Plugs, Clutch Damper Valve Delete, Rear Main Seal Inspection, ARP Head Studs, Throwout bearing and sleeve repair kit.

plugs if they are due (you can do them any time)

 

clutch damper valve delete is inside the passenger compartment - again, can be done at any time

 

rear main seal inspection is a good idea (they will do that when they pull back the transmission)

 

ARP head studs is a weird one - you are replacing the clutch, not rebuilding the engine, right? I'd say no on that one!

 

throw out bearing should be replaced with the clutch, and a snout repair kit is only needed if yours has been damaged by the old bearing.

 

Read the post by islandborn - his recommendation is to replace/upgrade the clutch fork and pivot point

 

An unrelated thing - maybe replace the front swaybar if you are wanting something stiffer - it's difficult to do with the engine/transmission in place!

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ARP head studs is a weird one - you are replacing the clutch, not rebuilding the engine, right? I'd say no on that one!

 

I am planning on doing ARP head studs & new head gaskets when I do the clutch or vice versa. I figure while I am pulling the motor that I would do both. From reading online (mostly this this forum) failed head gaskets at higher mileage (I am at 117K miles) seem pretty common on 5th Gen GT especially when running higher boost levels.

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Thank you, FL, DrD, and DGood for taking the time to help out, I really appreciate it!

 

FL when you say you stay stock, do you mean OEM right from Subaru or did you order an Exedy as well?

 

That's a bummer to hear about the full TBE, even though I mentioned that I wouldn't modify the car too much I would definitely like to maybe add a little more to the car down the road, nothing crazy but I always have the itch - and want to make the car as fun and reliable as possible. IDK of any great combinations to liven it up while keeping it out of harm's way. Would love to pick someone's brain about this as I can't find a good writeup of our 5th gen specifically...

 

I had the timing belt done at 105k but no paperwork from the mechanic.... might just do it again with the water pump so that I can have the paperwork for when I sell because I'm starting to fall in love with the Forester XT....:icon_bigg

 

So update on things to include :

 

1) Regasket of engine

 

2) Head Gaskets

 

3) plugs

 

4) clutch damper valve delete

 

5) rear main seal inspection

 

6) clutch fork and pivot point

 

 

Maybe??

ARP head studs (dont know how this would really benefit me, but again I know nothing)

snout repair kit if needed

throw out bearing

timing belt (again) and water pump

front swaybar

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If you intend to keep the stock turbo your gains are mainly going to come from the Jpipe replacement and it's only a slight gain with anything else you do. The ARP studs are good insurance against head lift from running higher than stock boost.

 

You should really read through the stickies specifically the 5th gen roadblocks one. Lots of good info there.

 

Depending on the year of fxt you want to buy, the 5th gen may be spoiling you in terms of usable power. The uel header and odd turbo placement mean alot more lag and less power and torque without major mods.

 

But I do love the forester platform.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, I have been doing some reading again, and I may edit my original post... the more I read the more dangerous this forum becomes! I just want to keep modifying.

 

Thinking Exedy Stage 1 clutch will really hold for whatever power I'm putting out without replacing my turbo. I think? Also, seems like our turbo does a decent job...

 

Recommendation on a good BPV?

 

Also, I have a bit of E85 around me, would that help with performance or is that really for tracking? Would it make sense for me to upgrade fuel pump and injectors solely for E85 or could I see any gains on 91/93 gas as well(is it worth it in your opinion?)

 

I will be getting a tune when I replace clutch so just trying to sort it all out at once I guess.

 

 

Lastly(for now), any idea what an avg. price for clutch parts and replacement would be for our cars? I dont want to get ripped but still looking for a trustworthy mechanic.

 

Thanks again for all the help - wish I knew more!

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