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Started my stereo install...


Mo_GT

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Some pics of the 6.5" midbass in the doors:

 

These are the factory mcintosh mids:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_80_full.jpg

 

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_81_full.jpg

 

 

Pic of the back of the Rainbow Profi vanadium 6.5" midbass:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_82_full.jpg

 

 

 

You can see the deflex pads installed at the back of the speakers in the above pic too.

 

Front shot:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_83_full.jpg

 

Another one:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_84_full.jpg

 

Merry Christmas!!!

 

Bye,

Mo

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Are you removing the Mcintosh speakers or are you just showing us what they look like?

 

I assume you have the Mcintosh head unit as well? How does it sound? Why are you changing it?

 

Sub box looks good too, BTW!

 

I've already removed all the mcintosh speakers and HU, will also take out the amp soon. Honestly, the factory fitted mcintosh is a pretty average(at best) stereo compared to whats available after market.

 

I've trimed the sub box in black vinyl and will posyt up a pic soon!

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That's surprising.. I would have thought the mcintosh would be one of the better sounding stock systems, comparable to say infinity or harman/kardon...

 

It is one of the better sounding stock systems (in cars around the GT's price range in Aust). But once you start comparing the stock stuff to the aftermarket products like Rainbow, Dynaudio, Zapco, Tru Technology, Image Dynamics, Brax, etc, its like comparing the GT to a honda civic.

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  • 3 weeks later...
finally got mine finished, and untuned it sounds good, will spend a good part of the day tomorrow tuning and neatening up the wires. I also might need to go out and get some new speakers for the front. I have a 10" rockford hx2 sub powered by and audison lrx 1.400 amp and i am all :icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg

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  • 3 months later...

Just an update - finished the sub box sometime ago here's a pic:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_92_full.jpg

 

I've started work on the console to mount the HU, will put up pics soon :)

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How does the sub sound when firing to the side as opposed to the front or rear?

 

I had an infinity basslink in my CTS and it didnt sound any better/worse having it mounted firing to the side or to the front/rear

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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nice and clean!! stretched vinyl for the finish I assume, given the Bondo skim coat (bogged)?

 

Yup, this is the first time I've used vinyl and probably the last - it marks way to easily for me. While test fitting the amp rack I managed to scuff the vinyl on the sub box ( you won't see it unless you stick your head in or look from the ski port). Carpet is much easier :)

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Yup, this is the first time I've used vinyl and probably the last - it marks way to easily for me. While test fitting the amp rack I managed to scuff the vinyl on the sub box ( you won't see it unless you stick your head in or look from the ski port). Carpet is much easier :)

 

MORE PICTURES

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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cool. now that i know a 12 will fit there I think I might give it a shot

 

The question is how to secure it

 

Go for it! I had to angle my sub so that it clears the arm that opens/closes the boot/trunk lid, the sub sits as high as possible.

 

If you design the box so that it sits in that space snugly you'll find that it won't move left to right or backwards and it can't move downwards.

 

That leaves upwards and forward.

 

For forward, what i've done is to sit the sub tilted so that it won't want to tip over and have a look at this pic, see the two holes? I put 'nut serts' in them and the box is bolted to the car with those. The nutserts and bolts are rated to hold atleaset 60kgs (about 100 lbs?) each.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_93_full.jpg

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Just for gfxdave99 :)

 

Pic of the whole box:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_94_full.jpg

 

 

 

Side view - just to show where the end of the box sits:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_95_full.jpg

 

 

 

View from the ski port looking back:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_97_full.jpg

 

 

Showing how far out the box protrudes and angle of sub:

(amp rack is just temporary/work in progress)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405982_98_full.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
I read this whole thread so sorry if i missed this info.....That looks like a 12" sub right? What is the mounting depth of that sub? Ive got an MTX 7500 12" with a mounting depth of 7-3/16". I am wondering if I will have enough room. This sub also wants an enclosure of 1.25 ft^3, how big is your enclosure roughly?
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I read this whole thread so sorry if i missed this info.....That looks like a 12" sub right? What is the mounting depth of that sub? Ive got an MTX 7500 12" with a mounting depth of 7-3/16". I am wondering if I will have enough room. This sub also wants an enclosure of 1.25 ft^3, how big is your enclosure roughly?

 

Yes, it is a 12" sub. Can't remember mounting depth but the box will clear IDMax which has a mounting depth of 8.25" and a 6.5" magnet diameter.

 

This enclosure is roughly 1 cubic ft. but its easy to make it bigger - there's plenty of room towards the front of the car where the box curves in and you can also go higher there.

 

Hope this helped :)

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That certainly did help, thank you. I have a 1.25^3 foot box right now and I personally think that a 1^3 foot box would be just fine.

I have one other question for you, if you dont mind. For the final (second) box that you show, did you make the base and then somehow prop up the ring (dowels or whatever) and then use fleece to connect the front part and back part together?

This will be my first FG project, Im slowly getting all of the pieces put together in my mind.

Thanks for the help!

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I have one other question for you, if you dont mind. For the final (second) box that you show, did you make the base and then somehow prop up the ring (dowels or whatever) and then use fleece to connect the front part and back part together?

This will be my first FG project, Im slowly getting all of the pieces put together in my mind.

Thanks for the help!

 

The second box was made excatly like the first except for the bottom bit, in the first one i used some mdf, the second was glassed.

 

The mounting for the sub is not a ring, its more of a "L" shaped piece of mdf, I then glassed the base of the "L" to the inside bottom of the fg shell.

 

I hate using fleece - i use speaker grill cloth instead. Streach it over the front and back sections and resin up the cloth - you'll need a lot less resin than with fleece. Once dry, lay fg onto the cloth overlapping the front and back sections. If you lay the glass from inside the box, you will keep the outside surface nice and smooth and more inportantly, you won't add thickness to the outside of the box - if you add too much thickness, the box may not fit in the space you moulded it from.

 

Have a look here: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/405982/9

 

Always glad to help :)

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Thanks guys. I wont be able to actually start fabricating a box for another month or so until I get a place with a garage, but I think I will be in good shape with all the good info that you have provided.

Thanks again, this forum rules!

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