MalcolmMakaveli Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 Alright, hopefully someone can help me out or point me in the right direction on this. I've been searching around for about a month on various forums, going into the dealership, mechanic shops, etc, and I can't seem to find anyone who can help me out with this shifter linkage (part number 35047AA030). The part number has been discontinued, and as far as I've been told, cannot be replaced with any of the superseding part numbers. I know I can't be the only one with a 1995 that has this issue (very sloppy shifter), as i've seen it's a pretty common problem throughout the years. So what have some of you done about this? Any suggestions? Do i need to hunt junkyards or fab my own, or is there something i can buy that will work? Perhaps a full shifter assembly swap from a newer year? Any expertise is greatly appreciated, cuz I'm really not sure where to go from here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalcolmMakaveli Posted May 24, 2018 Author Share Posted May 24, 2018 details on the car : 1995 Subaru Legacy L AWD wagon w/ 5 speed manual transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-35047AC030-Joint-complete/dp/B00PV6LM64 I believe this should work for you, but I'm not positive. I'm curious, why do the dealerships not point you to the superseding part number? That's really odd. If you've never done the bushing before, it's a bit of a PITA. There are two roll pins holding the damned thing in, one nested inside of the other. Make sure to push the small one out first or you'll just be hammering away for no reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-35047AC030-Joint-complete/dp/B00PV6LM64 I believe this should work for you, but I'm not positive. I'm curious, why do the dealerships not point you to the superseding part number? That's really odd. If you've never done the bushing before, it's a bit of a PITA. There are two roll pins holding the damned thing in, one nested inside of the other. Make sure to push the small one out first or you'll just be hammering away for no reason. +1 That is the number one part that needs to be replaced when correcting slop in the shifter, primarily when you can't tell which gear you're in. My old 99 L shifter knuckle was so bad the shifter moved up/down/left/right while driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalando82 Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 I just got some rubber fuel line from my auto parts store that fit inside the joints where the bushings are supposed to be and I had to shave some rubber off the inside or the outside of the rubber line, I dont remember. But it fixed the issue for only a couple of bucks for the rubber fuel line and my time making it fit nice and snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalando82 Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 I only made the mistake of losing my roll pins and having too replace it with a bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 ^^^+1 for us visual learners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalcolmMakaveli Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-35047AC030-Joint-complete/dp/B00PV6LM64 I believe this should work for you, but I'm not positive. I'm curious, why do the dealerships not point you to the superseding part number? That's really odd. If you've never done the bushing before, it's a bit of a PITA. There are two roll pins holding the damned thing in, one nested inside of the other. Make sure to push the small one out first or you'll just be hammering away for no reason. so this is what i thought the solution was, come to find out 95 has a different style which is discontinued. im curious if the part number for 96 would work (i dont know what it was off hand). but when i bought the part you suggested i brought it to a mechanic who told me it was essentially an inversion of the correct part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalando82 Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Correct me if I'm wrong but the one on Amazon could work of you find a shifter from a newer subaru since that knuckle is for the newer shifters. I'm planning a similar swap in my subi. I got the shifter from a 2002? Subaru impreza without the knuckle at a pick and pull yard for 16 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalcolmMakaveli Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 that was one of the things I was hoping would work, but I didn't want to just blindly go out and try it. If a large range of newer shifters will swap in no problem, that's definitely what i'll do then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 I just got some rubber fuel line from my auto parts store that fit inside the joints where the bushings are supposed to be and I had to shave some rubber off the inside or the outside of the rubber line, I dont remember. But it fixed the issue for only a couple of bucks for the rubber fuel line and my time making it fit nice and snug. i did the same for my 96. only issue i have now is the rear bushing, kids keep leaning on the shifter and pushing it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 so this is what i thought the solution was, come to find out 95 has a different style which is discontinued. im curious if the part number for 96 would work (i dont know what it was off hand). but when i bought the part you suggested i brought it to a mechanic who told me it was essentially an inversion of the correct part. Shit man, I'm sorry that it didn't work out easily for you. I wonder which end of it is different? I'd probably try to find a 1997+ shifter that will work with the bushing, but I'm stubborn like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalcolmMakaveli Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 Shit man, I'm sorry that it didn't work out easily for you. I wonder which end of it is different? I'd probably try to find a 1997+ shifter that will work with the bushing, but I'm stubborn like that. Alright, sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I am going to hopefully pull a shifter from the parts yard this weekend. I'm hoping somebody has either a guide, or can tell me what tools I need? Will I need punches, or can this be pulled with basic hand tools? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 I can't remember if you can see the roll pins with the trans in the car. If you can, you'll want the box/open wrench set, a heavy hammer and something to use as punches. You'll need a #2 phillips for trim stuff. You'll need another wrench of some kind for the other end of the bushing bolt. I don't remember anything other than that. Couldn't hurt to have pliers with cutters and a flat blade screwdriver for light prying. If you can't get to the roll pins with the trans in the car, then all bets are off on what tools you'll need. I'm sure you wouldn't need to take the trans all the way out. Probably dropping the trans crossmember would let it sag enough to get in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalando82 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Honestly Malcolm, if you want to buy a whole new knuckle (the u-joint looking thing you were going to buy earlier) for the newer subaru you can, and all you need is the shifter arm, lever and the bolts (just about everything besides the knuckle)from a newer 5 speed subaru shifter assembly to do the swap. With my car I just got some long rods from home depot to use as the punch. Put the car into 5th gear (too access the roll pins more easily) and roll under the driver side of your car and you'll see your knuckle If I remember correctly there are two roll pins in our cars, the big one is a 1/4in diameter or something like that, I don't remember the smaller one. It was X/16? Take the small one out first, then the large one and try to hit in the center of them. Use a pair of vise grips to hold your punch. Once the roll pins are out its really a breeze to work on. if you pull the knuckle from a used subaru the bushings are most likely gone as well and you're kinda back to square one. If I was home I would post some pics of the shifter I'm swapping in. Hope some of this helps and feel free to correct me or add on anything I missed since I haven't done the full swap yet. (Only thing in my way was the trans cross-member. And the exhaust heat shield.) Good luck man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalando82 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 I know there is a very good guide somewhere that goes into way more detail on here or another subaru website. But its really straight forward the only issue for me were the roll pins. And one more thing, don't get a punch that goes inside the roll pin, you want a punch that is almost exactly the same outer diameter as the small roll pin, and a bigger punch the size of the big roll pin, because the punch will get stuck and the pins will just expand and get tighter and not come out that easily. Good luck again and hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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