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Cover behind the alternator and accessory belts


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What is the cover behind the alternator and accessory belts. My idler pulley slipped and sliced into it and I'm curious if this is ok or not. 5caec6d65669fbd5cbf9660e7af5e048.jpgbe97fbcb012f83036101da028fc7cc24.jpg73dd868064b4ba3bdc9b76d5995f32da.jpg

 

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That's the center timing cover, and it's important to protect the timing gear from debris. You need to pull the cooling fans, both accessory belts, the crank pulley, and all 3 timing covers. Thoroughly clean the timing gear, replace the damaged cover, and reassemble.
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Yea, the hole definitely needs to be repaired. You could replace the cover or clean it really well and use some J-B Weld to fill in the hole if it is not too large.
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Actually, if the timing belt is original, it's 4 years overdue. But given the AC tensioner pulley has enough miles on it to snap its shaft, seems unlikely it's the original belt.

 

 

That's not the same belt - the AC belt is what you see, the timing belt is inside that cover.

 

 

Looks like you are in for a total belt and pulley replacement.

453747.png
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That's not the same belt - the AC belt is what you see, the timing belt is inside that cover.
Yes Nils, I'm aware of which belt is which. The point is, if the tensioner pulley breaks, chances are the car has a lot of miles. If the car has that many miles, chances are the 105K timing belt service Max brought up is not a consideration.

My, we've done an excellent job of battling this thing off topic.

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Yes Nils, I'm aware of which belt is which. The point is, if the tensioner pulley breaks, chances are the car has a lot of miles. If the car has that many miles, chances are the 105K timing belt service Max brought up is not a consideration.

My, we've done an excellent job of battling this thing off topic.

 

 

I would say that it's quite the opposite - that it may really be overdue by now.

 

 

I don't rule out anything before having done a reality check.

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I just had the 90k/105k done about 2 years ago (6,000 miles ago 89,700 when done and at 95,600 now).

 

Yeah if you look close at the first picture you can see the crack/slice in the cover right behind the A/C belt just above the new pulley. That is where the old belt was apparently rubbing up against it and cut through.

 

I can't believe I didn't notice until now. No weird noises or anything. Shit.

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The hardest part fixing this will be getting the crank pulley off. Breaking the bolt free can be tough unless you know how. In the FIY for the timing belt replacement thread I linked my thread from 2008, where I used the starter to break the torque.

 

In fact I updated it over the weekend, here, scan down for pictures.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yea, the pulley bolt is really tough to get off without the right tool. Having the Company23 503.2 tool is super handy to hold the pulley and use a long breaker bar on the bolt. It took me and my son both pulling/pushing as hard as we could 1 on each side of the car to break it loose on his Outback.
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Yeah I'm pretty much not going to touch this myself. F that. :-) I need to have the cam seal or valve cover looked at on the passenger side anyway. Hell since I'll be spending the money anyway I may just get myself that downpipe I've been looking at. Hah.
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Down pipe. you do know you want to get a catless up pipe to. You'll need a tune for the catted down pipe.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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