Turbo - Center Exhaust Removal

[TheUnsungWar]

So I am trying to remove my turbo to check to see if it needs to be replaced, but I'm having trouble getting the center exhaust off. Any ideas? I have all the nuts and bolts off. It wiggles but doesn't yield any room to get it off. Appreciated!

[TheUnsungWar]

Using flat heads to pry it apart I get a good bit of movement but not enough to get it off.

[relative4]

1. You don't need to remove the turbo to check it. Just remove the downpipe.

2. Not sure what you mean by center exhaust. You may or not be referring to the downpipe, which is the about 4' section, which goes from the turbo, down to a 45 degree bend to horizontal, back to the donut gasket connecting it to the catback. The factory downpipe is in two sections, which you do not disconnect from each other.

To remove the DP, remove the 5 nuts (& 2 bolts) connecting it to the turbo, remove the bolt bracing it to the transmission, remove the 2 bolts connecting it to the catback, and finally remove the bolt connecting it to the center support. Disconnect the O2 sensor at the tranny-mounted connector.

Now you can pop off the center support hanger, push back the catback, and it will basically fall off the turbo. Careful of the O2 sensor wiring.

[TheUnsungWar]

The book refers to it as the center exhaust pipe but the whole thing is the downpipe. One of the YouTube videos I came across, the guy removed just the first section. I'll move on to removing the whole down pipe then.

 

Is there a reason why you wouldn't separate the two parts? I'm looking at mine and the gaskets between them are pretty brittle and rusted, which makes me want to replace them.

[relative4]

That gasket does not as a rule leak. How it looks doesn't matter. If for some reason you were to disconnect that joint, you would need to replace the gasket and hardware, and do a bunch of work to make the mating surfaces flat again.

 

Reviewing your first post, it looks like you may have done that. If so, you need to re-do the whole thing or you will leak.

[Max Capacity]

Do a google search for a 3" down pipe for these cars. You'll get a good idea of what to remove.

 

I like to use OEM nuts and bolts at the turbo, I use whatever 3/8 nuts, bolts and washers at the DP to midpipe joint.

 

Use anti-seize compound on all threads, spray the old fasteners with PB Blaster to help them break free.

[TheUnsungWar]

Hmm... Well when I put everything back together how will I know if I screwed up the connection between the two joints? Word sound? Cel?

[Max Capacity]

You'll hear the exhaust leak if you have one. I've had my exhaust apart a number of times over the 14 years I've owned the car. Fairly easy to do after the first time.

[TheUnsungWar]

Dumb question: think it's safe to spray the O2 sensor with pb to get it out?

[TheUnsungWar]

Eh got it undone without it. Hate hearing these old nuts and bolts crack.

[relative4]

FFR, yes - PB Blast it, for 24 hours if possible.

[Max Capacity]

For the O2 sensor, I use a O2 socket and a screw type hose clamp around the socket to keep it from spreading.

 

Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sensor before installing it.

[TheUnsungWar]

So upon taking the downpipe off, there was some sort of circular spacer between the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust. Can someone tell me what that is? I need a new one because it crumbled away.

[relative4]

That's called a donut gasket. Clean up the remnants thoroughly. I like OEM, but auto parts store brand is fine.