st7era Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 05 legacy gt turbo 2.5L sedan Mods: grimmspeed air intake all stock 94,000 miles ***Initially read what the mechanic says please*** Pretty reliable but does what he say add up? I’ve been having a bit of oil seeming to burn off the exhaust somewhere on my passenger side couldnt find the leak just what it was dripping on. (White puffs of smoke when its been running hard) Went to a couple sleezy mechanics trying to run me for my money so I’m really looking for the right guy. I live in CT if anyone locally wants to give me a reliable one to do the work on this car, big plans for it but want it to run smoothly with no issues for awhile before I start(wheels, exhausts, typical legacy stuff). But contiuing what the mechanic said, I have No noticable drip on my driveway or anywhere I park, no excessive crazy amounts of oil but I’ve been topping it when needed and keeping an eye on it. but I’d like to get this fixed immediately. Since the check engine light and blinking cruise came on just the other day. Is it worth getting a silicone turbo inlet if my OEM one is torn, dont feel like fixing it again in the future. Oil catch cans help a lot on these oil drinking cars? Anything else I can potentially buy to prevent any of these issues and info on what I should ask out of this guy for the full fix? Oil lines worth it etc? ALSO IF ANYONE KNOWS FITMENT FOR A STANCE LIKE THIS ON A 05 LEGACY GT SEDAN THAT WOULD ALSO BE APPRECIATED! Thanks to anyone who can help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Looks like a lot of different oil leaks, usually there's only one or two unless someone has neglected the car for long. If a lot of seals start to leak at the same time, then it's usually caused by overpressure and one common source for that is the PCV unless you have a large amount of blow-by in the engine, so a compression test would be in order too. Just throwing effort on replacing seals without making sure that there's no underlying problem is going to be a waste of money if it's revealed that the engine need more work. Replacing PCV is not a big deal, that's cheap and easy and should be done if you have that kind of issue, having to do a piston work is not cheap though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Especially given cam & crank seals rarely leak. $800 is wicked cheap for all that work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Keep the stock intake No need for a catch can Where in Ct are you? Somersville has my trusted mechanic Colonial tire and brake for over 30 years Passenger valve cover is a known leak area My click here link will have info and pictures 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 just fix one thing at a time. if your concern is a oil leak, with a leak being an active drip of oil then fix that one thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Oh, and take them up on the timing kit - it's way overdue. Get an Aisin kit - NOT Gates! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st7era Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 Looks like a lot of different oil leaks, usually there's only one or two unless someone has neglected the car for long. If a lot of seals start to leak at the same time, then it's usually caused by overpressure and one common source for that is the PCV unless you have a large amount of blow-by in the engine, so a compression test would be in order too. Just throwing effort on replacing seals without making sure that there's no underlying problem is going to be a waste of money if it's revealed that the engine need more work. Replacing PCV is not a big deal, that's cheap and easy and should be done if you have that kind of issue, having to do a piston work is not cheap though. I bought the car at 87k miles and I had noticed a faint oil smell, got the valve cover fixed, so I guess maybe time has caught up with me and that wasn’t the only thing that needed fixing. Now at around 94k, noticed the puffs of smoke and smell came back again along with the check engine light so I guess these issues have risen over time since that 1st fix, maybe couldve had a better guy look at it and notice these wears and tears before it hit me now. Oh well. Think the best thing will be to get all these seals fixed, get the compression test and see if theyre gonna hold up or if anything else is leaking as well. Love this forum so helpful thank you all! Lets hope this is what i’ve been looking for to end this issue bringing her to the shop for wednesday thursday I’ll keep you all posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemanspif Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Depending on where in CT you are; AZP installs could be an option. Seem to come highly recommended from board members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st7era Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 Final product, Replacement turbo replaced for a stock 148k VF40 Turbo New PVC valve Cam crank leaks are sealed Turbo lines sealed, Turbo was switched because I was unaware of the unbranded turbo, (owned the car for a little less than a year) the new OEM turbo inlet wouldnt fit the replacement, so just went back to stock. New timing belt and water pump for zero labor! Everything has been running well since the fix, no smokes or smells I was dealing with prior and I’m happy with their work. The only thing they had to say was that one of my boots are slinging a tiny bit of grease and if I smell anything thats what it is. Really happy with these guys work. I’ll eventually get the boot fixed, pockets are a little sore from this one for a little haha. And thanks to everyone on the thread. New PVC and compression tests were a good call to prevent any future issues... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Fix the boot as soon as possible or it will become a lot more expensive where you have to replace the CV joint too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 If its an OEM axle that has the boot leaking, have the boot replaced not the axle. OEM axles are he best in these cars. I replaced my left front years ago and have since replaced it a number of times. When the right front had a leaking boot I replaced just the boot, that axle has 255,000 miles on it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st7era Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 If its an OEM axle that has the boot leaking, have the boot replaced not the axle. OEM axles are he best in these cars. I replaced my left front years ago and have since replaced it a number of times. When the right front had a leaking boot I replaced just the boot, that axle has 255,000 miles on it. Thanks for the response, you help me out as always haha, Was going to ask what to do next for the boot issue but here’s my answer! I’ll let you know how the fix goes! Bringing her down sometime next week! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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