Valve chatter or Rod Knock? "Crossing Fingers"

[DWCookster]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-ZZwNjcPAA&feature=youtu.be

 

I am about on edge of just getting rid of this damn Legacy. Was hoping to get it to last to at least 200k mileage. But it's been an increasing issue problem and driving me up the wall. Here is a video of what I am hearing from outside and inside the car. Sounds like chatter and at normal idle. This video is it being at normal idle.

 

If I rev the motor it's not always a constant chatter, if you rev blip it over half the time it's pretty quiet. But once you quiet down it gets a bit tractor like. The Valves have not been lashed on this motor since day one and I am biting my nails thinking that might do the trick with this motor. If I rev the motor it's not a constant chatter, maybe like every 3 revs if you're being rude to her.

 

Need more input and I might go ahead and check the valve lashing on her and replace the Valve Cover gasket. At that point I am willing to let her go or get a new motor.

 

Been refusing to want to buy a new WRX as I am a stickler with money, but this car is driving me towards it.

 

I can hear the chatter while driving down at highway speeds. Sometimes it gets louder, sometimes it's quiet. I just need more input thinking if I am wasting my money dumping more into this car if the engine is toast.

[relative4]

A $3 mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight or the auto parts store, or a 3' section of hose up to your ear, will allow you to pinpoint the noise. Best case scenario, it's coming from the front center of the engine, slightly to driver side, and it's the timing belt tensioner.

How long since the timing belt and/or tensioner were replaced? What brand kit was used?

[r.lee89]

If its a rod bearing you will see it in the oil pressure. So i suggest doing an oil pressure test.

[relative4]

If its a rod bearing you will see it in the oil pressure. So i suggest doing an oil pressure test.

Individual rod knock is caused by a past low/dirty oil event and/or a past/current blockage in an individual journal. How will testing current oil pressure identify any of those situations?

Certainly an oil pressure test is a good idea, but it will not tell you whether you have rod knock.

[DWCookster]

I did all the timing a few months ago. New tension, belt, seals, pump,etc. I didn't cheap out on the timing. I replaced everything including the cam seals when I was in there. I'll go and do an oil pressure test considering it's cheap to do. Also will do the other idea noted too! I am willing to tear apart the motor and rebuild it considering to me it's worth doing it myself and save myself the money on buying a new motor.

 

So far the repairs I have done:

All new timing components (Everything was replaced)

All new suspension (Stock) Will replace bushing's this spring.

All new exhaust (Replaced the cats and 02 Sensors)

All new brakes (Rotors, pads, fluid)

Has fairly new tires

 

So the cost I am keeping in mind, figure I just take the time and rebuild the stock motor and maybe buy some better parts to improve less chances of future motor problems. Me and a close friend of mine did all the repairs to the car and we're preparing for a possible new engine build.

[rhino6303]

What brand timing components did you use? Aftermarket tensioners fail often and can cause catastrophic damage when they fail.

[DWCookster]

Ordered from rockauto.com so I'll have to look at what brand it was.

 

GATES TCKWP307A {#WPK42571A} (Standard Replacement) PowerGrip Premium

[Darth SpecB]

You can test the tensioner by removing the timing cover, and prying on the tensioner while the engine is running. A fairly easy test to do. Before doing that it would be wise to drain the oil and check for metallic bearing material in case it is a rod bearing failure.

 

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[DWCookster]

Would I be able to just replace the tensioner if it ends up being just that, or will I be forced in changing the belt and everything again?

[rhino6303]

Would I be able to just replace the tensioner if it ends up being just that, or will I be forced in changing the belt and everything again?

You could just replace the tensioner if it is that. I'd double check the other bearings to be sure they were made in japan. They should have a "Japan" stamped on them.

 

If it were me and the tensioner was failing, I'd replace it all as it could have potentially stretched the belt. Get the Aisin kit for oem quality.

[DWCookster]

I have maybe 3,000 miles on the timing. Wouldn’t this call for a warranty recall from rock auto? Tomorrow I’ll be checking the tensioner, it sounds like it but at the same time my car has a similar noise to bearing noise. Might have a shop check it too, preferably not the stealership.

[mccorry]

Updates?

[DWCookster]

Sorry I've been severely sick, the update now is the motor is actually fried. Pulled valve cover and oil pan and there was metal shreds all over everything. In the process of pricing out a new/rebuilt motor or I am going to push forward and by myself a needed Pickup truck for work related items. We will see, if the rebuild is reasonable then I can do motor and buy my new truck.