ehsnils Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 It's probably a case where the code was pending for a long time and that the conditions for really setting it wasn't met. Could happen when a sensor behaves in an erratic manner and only sometimes fails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightspeed98 Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 When it happened to me, teeth from rear diff were broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan.ej255 Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi everybody, finally I diagnosed what is the problem. Code P1710 appeared. Then I googled it and found out that many people are experiencing the same issue. In Japan there was also a free replacement for it. The cheapest way to repair it is buying turbine speed sensor 2 ($100) which is located on valve body and have it replaced. The more expensive one is having replaced valve body. In every authorised dealership, that is what is going to happen... I found one sensor on ebay, so I am waiting for it to arrive, then I am going to change it. I will let you know what is the result. It's crazy that it took almost 2 years to show the code... Hi, do ypu have the part number for the turbine speed sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTalex Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hi, do ypu have the part number for the turbine speed sensor? Unfortunatelly I don't. I have read a lot about this issue. Some changed valvebodies, some changed the sensors. I do not think Subaru sells the part, therefore there might not be part number. I found it on ebay. Unfortunatelly they do not sell it anymore. Try contact them: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/gear-boxes/listing-2196031447.htm?rsqid=rmlso-1d58898c504d411d9c9483ed1247528d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 (edited) I have a 2011 JDM Legacy GT Wagon. Sometimes after applying the brake to slow down then back to stepping on the gas pedal the engine revs as if the car is in neutral for about a second then gets back into gear. This is when it slams/jerks as if the car was hit from behind. The first time it happened I thought someone rear ended me. I am assuming it may be the rear diff or something transmission wise. Anyone ever experienced or having this issue. Or a diagnosis as to what is causing this? Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk If you are going from quick brake to acceleration, since the throttle is electronic, not cable, the reaction of the transmission is sometimes clunky and sluggish. Its hard to say without seeing it, but if its very rough im thinking VB since that controls a lot of the pressures and fluid. download rom raider, get the right ROM for the car, someone should have a tactrix you can borrow (ask around) and take some logs. Those logs can give you an idea of whats wrong with the transmission. - do not be alarmed if the trans takes awhile to get up to temperature. Thats usually a 30-45 min process, unless the coolant which is 5-10 Replacing the valve body could do it, but I think I would try a few drain and fills with fresh fluid, maybe amsoil synthetic. Then maybe datalogging the tcu if that is possible I imagine there has to be fluid pressure and temperature data somewhere in the TCU. On a side note, does your 2011 have eyesight? I just noticed the picture in the OP has what looks like the dual cameras in the windscreen. There is, switch rom raider over to TCU and there is a bunch of items you can log/measure. Edited June 20, 2019 by Golferdude1087 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoyogt Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Just an update, the problem came back after 1 year doing the flush. I bought turbine 2 speed sensor and had the mechanic take out the trouble one and soldered in the new one, so far so good, no hard shifts or vehicle going into limp mode. Will update after I have driven it for some more time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Hey yoyogt, where were you able to source the turbine 2 speed sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoyogt Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 Hey yoyogt, where were you able to source the turbine 2 speed sensor? Got it from eBay, the wires are a little smaller but it works so far. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-5EAT-VSS-Sensor-1-Hole-Bracket-To-Case-13-Harness-3-Pin-Conn-131958/303147558334?hash=item469500a5be:g:EBUAAOSwJi1c0v4K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Thanks yoyogt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoyogt Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 Thanks yoyogt! Yeah man, anytime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1710 Posted November 29, 2019 Share Posted November 29, 2019 Hi everyone. I recently went through this frustration with my granddaughter's 2008 Legacy GT. I paid over $200 to get a sensor overnight out of Canada. As a result of that experience I decided to make the sensor available here in the US at reasonable price. You can get it with or without the filter. See links below. Thank you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133239156024 https://www.ebay.com/itm/133200929693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie2nr Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 (edited) Hi everybody, finally I diagnosed what is the problem. Code P1710 appeared. Then I googled it and found out that many people are experiencing the same issue. In Japan there was also a free replacement for it. The cheapest way to repair it is buying turbine speed sensor 2 ($100) which is located on valve body and have it replaced. The more expensive one is having replaced valve body. In every authorised dealership, that is what is going to happen... I found one sensor on ebay, so I am waiting for it to arrive, then I am going to change it. I will let you know what is the result. It's crazy that it took almost 2 years to show the code... Do you have a part number for this part? Hoping this is my issue, but it happens to me under aggressive load, and I have a manual transmission. Edited February 24, 2020 by subie2nr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 Do you have a part number for this part? Hoping this is my issue, but it happens to me under aggressive load, and I have a manual transmission. If you have a manual, this is not your problem, manual transmissions don't have a valve body or any of the sensors mentioned above. You can create a thread in the main part of the forum or in the tech section of the site under transmissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1710 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Update: I've gotten tons of great feedback on these parts. Thank you to anyone that has purchased to help me keep this going. Please note that the Ebay item number for the sensor with filter has changed to 133417836227. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133417836227 https://www.ebay.com/itm/133200929693 Thanks again! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade chard Posted April 20, 2023 Share Posted April 20, 2023 On 12/6/2017 at 1:06 PM, cww516 said: You've got the 5-speed auto in there, correct? Does this only happen when you really stomp on the gas, or does it happen under light throttle input as well? Sounds like a clutch isn't engaging correctly in the transmission. I'm not sure how the 5EAT is set up, but it almost sounds like either an overrunning clutch that's not reliably re-engaging when you get back on the power, or maybe a sticky solenoid valve that's delaying engagement of a clutch pack. Hopefully one of the 3.6R guys knows more about these transmissions than I do- USDM 5th-gen LGTs are manual trans only, and the 3.6R has the 5EAT that went into the LGT elsewhere. Hi there mine does similar when I put into manual mode and change in high gears after it changes it gives a thump/,jerk if it's in d it doesn't do it all all that's foot flat but change it back foot flat it thumps like getting hit from behind /jerk changed both different fluid and transmission fluid and filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolTime Posted April 22, 2023 Share Posted April 22, 2023 (edited) My manual GT was doing this under load and boost, it was quite scary to feel it jerk so much. For me it ended up being my coilpacks and spark plugs. Most if not all of the coilpacks has started to rust a de-laminate. A couple of them had cracked housings too. I wasn't getting any check engine codes or misfires. They were losing their connection when the car was under acceleration. I replaced all of them with NGK coils. They are the OEM man for subaru but for a fraction of the price. Edited April 22, 2023 by ToolTime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade chard Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 On 4/23/2023 at 7:00 AM, ToolTime said: My manual GT was doing this under load and boost, it was quite scary to feel it jerk so much. For me it ended up being my coilpacks and spark plugs. Most if not all of the coilpacks has started to rust a de-laminate. A couple of them had cracked housings too. I wasn't getting any check engine codes or misfires. They were losing their connection when the car was under acceleration. I replaced all of them with NGK coils. They are the OEM man for subaru but for a fraction of the price. Did it only do it after gear change and felt like someone hit u from behind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade chard Posted June 27, 2023 Share Posted June 27, 2023 On 12/6/2017 at 1:06 PM, cww516 said: You've got the 5-speed auto in there, correct? Does this only happen when you really stomp on the gas, or does it happen under light throttle input as well? Sounds like a clutch isn't engaging correctly in the transmission. I'm not sure how the 5EAT is set up, but it almost sounds like either an overrunning clutch that's not reliably re-engaging when you get back on the power, or maybe a sticky solenoid valve that's delaying engagement of a clutch pack. Hopefully one of the 3.6R guys knows more about these transmissions than I do- USDM 5th-gen LGTs are manual trans only, and the 3.6R has the 5EAT that went into the LGT elsewhere. Hey mine does it full throttle and letting go of pedal and shifting up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolTime Posted June 29, 2023 Share Posted June 29, 2023 (edited) On 6/27/2023 at 1:33 AM, Wade chard said: Hey mine does it full throttle and letting go of pedal and shifting up I'd wager your coilpacks are going bad, possibly need new plugs too. Just pull them out and inspect them, they're pretty easy to get to and are on top of your spark plugs. If you change the plugs you have to pull the coilpack anyways. There are many how to's online for a subaru EJ 2.5, all models are essentially the same as far as location and instruction. You'd notice if the metal layers are de-laminating and rusty, also look for cracks in the plastic housing attached to the layered metal bit. Here are some photos of mine when I replaced them at 105K as a Northeast car. Salty roads and old age take their toll. Edited June 29, 2023 by ToolTime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted June 30, 2023 Share Posted June 30, 2023 Wowza those were definitely due for a change 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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