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Torque converter or CVT?


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Currently experiencing an issue with my 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. When I switch from Park to Drive or Reverse the vehicle shudders drastically and I was wondering if it could be the torque converter acting up or the CVT giving up on me, the weird thing is that it only happens when the vehicle is warm (after running for 20+ miles) it does not do it when I first start the car in the morning. I’m really confused. :confused:
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Option A: Start by reading this ENTIRE thread, perhaps from the end first.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/many-miles-your-cvti-issuesi-215157.html

 

From there, monitor your CVTF Temp leading up to when this happens, see if you notice any threshold that the fluid needs to reach (or perhaps exceeds) for this to happen. Valve body solenoids might be acting up as well, good idea to monitor their output pressure readings or duty-cycles (there is a particular pair or group of solenoids responsible for the gear switch functions so track those down and see what the CANbus SSM messages tell you). Finally see if your TC actually locks up and at what Engine RPM, if your CVT allows for a simulated 'gear' where your drivetrain ratio is closest to 1:1, it should lock up for almost so long as you stay in 'gear' and say above 1.5K RPM, otherwise find out at what vehicle/engine speed the CVT should lock up in vanilla i-mode and see if the sensor readings (engine, turbine, impeller RPMs) confirm that's happening.

 

RomRaider's logger or BtSsm and VAG-com or Tactrix OPv2 or the BtSsm bluetooth dongle will be needed for any of the above.

 

Option B: Take her to the dealership and let them do a fraction of the above or quote you for a new VB/TC combo with no guarantee this will fix the issue or not introduce new ones.

 

Option C: Trade-in or sell as-is.

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OK. In that case, please elaborate on 'currently experiencing an issue'.

 

Do you mean that this is something new, crept in in the last 1K miles (aka since CVTF change)

or did you have the same problem before, which had you change the CVTF in the first place?

 

What CVTF was used? OE or aftermarket fluid?

 

Subaru has a number of CVTFs, not all compatible with each other or readily available. Green, Blue, Amber, different names and specs, applications across Subarus CVT and model year range.

 

How was the fluid change performed? Drain-n-fill, full flush making use of natural fluid circulation with the car on, forced flush (using an external pump).

 

Was the proper CVTF level achieved post 'change'? How was that verified and by who?

 

Was the TCU reset and learning procedure performed?

 

How did the spent fluid look at 113K?

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