59ctd Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 What is the best way to get a rear axle shaft out for replacement? 09 Outback 2.5i here. The FSM says to drop the differential which might not be that hard except for removing the exhaust and getting it to properly seal again. Can I take out one bolt from each of the three lateral link arms to get enough deflection in the trailing arm to allow removal of the axle spindle from the hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 You can buy the exhaust gaskets from any auto parts store. They are like $8.00 each. Some red RTV sealant will help seal them on the rusty flanges. You can use any common nut's and bolts to replace the old rusty bolts you may have to cut off. PB Blaster will help loosen the rusty nuts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 You can buy the exhaust gaskets from any auto parts store. They are like $8.00 each. Some red RTV sealant will help seal them on the rusty flanges. You can use any common nut's and bolts to replace the old rusty bolts you may have to cut off. PB Blaster will help loosen the rusty nuts. Thanks. Sounds like dropping the diff is the preferred method then. I messed around for quite a while trying to get the exhaust sealed up properly on the 08 Legacy. I will apply my learnings from that exercise here I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Do I understand correctly that the proposed approach is to remove the mufflers from the Y-pipe? Getting those rusty-ass flanges to seal up again is a nightmare and should be avoided at all costs. I had to buy a 9" angle grinder to get them flat. If you need the exhaust out of the way, just drop the whole catback. Cleaning up the donut flange is a piece of cake. A new donut is like $20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Do I understand correctly that the proposed approach is to remove the mufflers from the Y-pipe? Getting those rusty-ass flanges to seal up again is a nightmare and should be avoided at all costs. I had to buy a 9" angle grinder to get them flat. If you need the exhaust out of the way, just drop the whole catback. Cleaning up the donut flange is a piece of cake. A new donut is like $20. Great idea. I will try removing the y-pipe and the mufflers all as one unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Spray the rubber hangers with the PB, it will help them slide off the pins easier. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted October 23, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted October 23, 2017 https://www.amazon.com/Drake-Off-Road-Tools-Exhaust/dp/B0012S9A5U makes taking off rubber exhaust hangers an actual pleasure... Use PB or WD40 still for slippery easy goodness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Good tool to add to the wish list. Thanks, 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Great idea. I will try removing the y-pipe and the mufflers all as one unit.Forgot to mention - it may not even be necessary to remove the catback to get that clearance. Once you remove the hangers, the catback can angle down like 15 degrees without removing the donut flange bolts and hopefully without totaling the donut. If it won't seal after you're done, then replace the donut and bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Forgot to mention - it may not even be necessary to remove the catback to get that clearance. Once you remove the hangers, the catback can angle down like 15 degrees without removing the donut flange bolts and hopefully without totaling the donut. If it won't seal after you're done, then replace the donut and bolts. Yeah I had the same thought. Removing the donut connection is easy to do though once the rest is dropped out of the hangers. I am thinking that getting the exhaust out of the way completely will make it a bit easier to work under there and safely drop the diff unit down and pry the inner joint from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Yeah, def easier. Just make sure you have new nuts & bolts ready to go along with the donut gasket. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5B5C8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Yeah, def easier. Just make sure you have new nuts & bolts ready to go along with the donut gasket. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5B5C8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks. I checked that Dorman 03114 bolt/spring kit and it says it will not fit my son's 09 Outback (where it is needed) but it will fit my 08 Legacy 2.5i sedan. That's a bit of a head scratcher to me. Aren't they identical engine and exhaust wise? I think I had bought the Bosal 254-9990 bolt/spring kit when I did the Legacy this past spring. In any case, definitely going to have the bolt/spring kit and the donut here before I start on the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Don't waste your $$ on the spring bolt kit, just get nuts, bolts and washers from any hardware store Did that once. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Don't waste your $$ on the spring bolt kit, just get nuts, bolts and washers from any hardware store. The spring bolts are not there for the heck of it. They are necessary on a donut flange. When I bought my current car, the bozo shop that installed the catback had just used bolts and doubled nuts. So the first time I tapped the Y-pipe on the ground and shifted the catback, one of the bolts was now too long and rattled horribly till I put on spring bolts. If you're going 3" to 3" with no donut, then yes, you use regular bolts, nuts, and washers. Grade 8. P.S. you can reuse the springs, but regular bolts won't do. You need the shoulder bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 I've been thinking of getting the GS adaptor for my wagon's Invidia DP to the stock mid pipe. I just use the GS 2X gasket and red RTV. I have a donut gasket that I use when I put the stock DP on to pass emissions test. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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