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Gurgling in dash followed by no heat from heater


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Hi guys, thanks for taking time to read this.

 

Brief history on my 2009 Legacy 2.0 Diesel Irish non import RH drive 5SP Manual.

At 245,000km my engine went due to cracked crankshaft. Got new short block and all went exceptionally well until recently, 295500km.

I noticed gurgling sound from what seemed to be behind dash especially first thing in morn. Checked coolant and was below min when cold. Topped it up checked rad cap and oil cap and all fine, rad cap seals look fine and it springs. Oil cap is clear of anything other than oil so is dip stick no white gunge or water drops. Exhaust smoke a bit white on first start of day, literally a big of then clear but it always has been that way from day one.

Heater gradually got less warm over about next 1000km and now only blows cold. Checked cabin filter and was clean- hoovered out fins anyway!

Today I was on motorway at 140km continously for about a hour in total and at 100km for previous 45min all free moving constant momentum. Temp gauge stayed in normal range, not even fully horizontal. But when I took off hard from tool booth c4000 rpm the gauge crept up slightly over half way/exact horizontal position not even close to red zone. I slowed slightly and it returned to just under half way again (maybe this normal but only noticed it as I was paying attention to gauge for entire journey due to probs mentioned above)

 

My question is can any help solve the no heat in cabin problem based on info above?

 

A/C isn't cold either but that isn't an issue for me in Ireland but may be related.

 

Could it be blocked core/matrix although both hoses into firewall are warm to touch after about ten min idle.

 

Thanks again any help greatly appreciated.

 

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We don't get the diesel models here in the U.S. but gurgling behind the dash, low or no heat sounds like air pockets trapped in the cooling system. Subaru horizontally-opposed motors are more prone to this than some others.

 

Now as to where the bubbles came from... If you have changed the coolant recently, was the cooling system bled to get all the air out? If not, you might suspect head gasket trouble causing exhaust gas to get into the cooling system past the gasket(s).

 

There is a test kit available to detect combustion gases in the cooling system. It uses a chemical solution that changes color when these gases are present.

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PS gurgling sound did stop before heat did.

Thanks for reply my last coolant change was with new block install. Would It mean head skim and new gaskets you think? Would contamination not show in oil or coolant if was head gasket?, Sorry for all questions but I just can't afford big repairs atm.

Could it be blocked heater core?

Hope it not a head gasket I had that done on a Rover 214i before and wasn't cheap, car never felt same after either.

 

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If you can do the test with the colored solution it will tell you definitely yes or no if the head gaskets are causing the issue.

 

Head gaskets can fail in several different ways. Sometimes, you would see oil and antifreeze mix, but not always. Other times, you see an external leak of oil or coolant. In your case, the pressure from combustion can push exhaust gas past the gasket into the cooling system yet little or no coolant would come back the other direction. You did see some white smoke which could be a trace of coolant, but only after the car has sat for awhile. Transient overheating, gas bubbles in cooling system, coolant being pushed out the overflow bottle are classic signs of this.

 

If you had work done recently with the shortblock, it is possible things were not done right with the gaskets at that time. Typically, they should not fail for a very long time after replacement.

 

Repairs for this type of issue would usually require resurfacing the head and installing new gaskets.

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Had a similar problem in a Lagacy H6 Wagon. There are bits of black in the coolant overflow reservoir and no matter how hard I tried to bleed it it then overflowed due to the head gasket being cracked and gasses getting into the coolant.

 

Basically I'm still running the car but it now has no thermostat and the radiator cap has no pressure seal and you can only 3/4 fill the radiator. Its not worth fixing it on a 2000 car, too much time and expense so just running it until something else packs up and its scrap metal.

 

The bits of black are thin sealant from the head gasket.

Edited by Tronic
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Thanks for your replies guys.

 

Had my car with my mechanic yesterday. He had good look around and began bleeding air from heater core pipes. Got a bit of heat on blowers after about 15min.

 

It wasn't booked in so he couldn't spend anymore time on it. Taking it back in morn again and leaving with him for the day, when he will raise front end and bleed some more or get at heater core and see.

He believes no loss of pressure in system, no mixed fluids, no visual leaks and good performance so might be an air lock has travelled to a high point in core.

Fingers crossed it's just an air lock and fingers crossed it won't involve taking console apart.

Will keep you updated.

Neil

 

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Turns out it was some flap stuck in closed position which prevented warm air flowing. €100 fix. Hope that all it was.

Now onto xenon lights randomly turning off. New bulbs maybe, but which ones.

 

 

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That's very good news, so you have heat now. Have you got rid of the gurgling sound, maybe I missed that part?
Yeah got heat and gurgling still gone, it went before heat did. I am thinking it was low coolent in system and expansion tank must have been empty. It then sucked air into the system. Once it warmed up it probably vented some air back out expansion tank. Then by me adding coolent it eventually worked all air out.

Not sure how or why the flap closed cutting off hit air maybe just a coincidence. Thank you for all the advice.

 

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  • 2 years later...
Yeah got heat and gurgling still gone, it went before heat did. I am thinking it was low coolent in system and expansion tank must have been empty. It then sucked air into the system. Once it warmed up it probably vented some air back out expansion tank. Then by me adding coolent it eventually worked all air out.

Not sure how or why the flap closed cutting off hit air maybe just a coincidence. Thank you for all the advice.

 

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What flap are you talking about?

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Is there any way to test the actuators? Do they “gurgle” when turning the car and climate system on? I always just assumed that when starting the car, the gurgling was due to the coolant system starting, and air pockets gurgling through the heater core area.
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