Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Hey all, been dealing with this problem for a short while: when under throttle light to WOT my wheel pulls left. Doesn't yank the wheel out of my hand, and if I'm on the freeway and do a light pull, when I let off the gas the front end feels squirrly. Think: hot rod wheelie and when it comes down what it would feel like. If I am not paying attention I am almost crossing lanes. And light wind throws me around at 60mph+ I have in the front the Cusco steering rack brace, Whiteline steering rack bushings, and Mevotech LCA's, poly swaybar bushings, Moog sway bar ends, new tires/rims, and Les Schwab has given me 3 alignments.. I still have stock springs/struts. My thoughts are tie rod ends but they looked fine and Les Schwab didn't mention anything about them, hopefully the less than 5,000 mile old LCA bushings aren't toast yet. Or Les Schwab is incompetent.. Any thoughts or help on what I should look for? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tire pressures good? Has anyone checked out the rear of the car? Trailing arm bushings, for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshole Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Also interested. I have replaced my front LCAs, have newish tires (~8,000 miles on them), have had multiple alignments, and my front end still feels squirrely on the highway. I'm on coilovers, though, so maybe it's a ride height setting that I screwed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tire pressures is the first thing I'd check. Then, maybe something in the rear suspension giving you steering effects. There's been lots of attention on the front, perhaps more on the rear would reveal something. Also, original shocks at how many miles? They may be ready for the pasture, not that they were that great from the factory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tire pressure is dead on, I even have a nifty talking digital PSi gauge the previous owner left over, it's reads exactly what a calibrated gauge reads at the local tire shop. My plan was to get started in the rear, and no I haven't touched a damn thing except for new tires/rims. However there is also a strange rattle-like feel in the steering wheel when i have my tires turned and go over a small lip or bump. I can only speculate what tthat is. I forgot to add that I have that insert piece in my steering u-joint as well to prevent the "gummy feeling" wheel. Sshole: I was wondering if you've added the roll center kit yet? I'm in the same boat less coilovers and aforementioned kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 However there is also a strange rattle-like feel in the steering wheel when i have my tires turned and go over a small lip or bump. I can only speculate what tthat is... Sounds like that could be strut mounts or possibly the struts themselves. Whiteline makes some strut mounts that can also give you more caster/camber in the front P/N KCA409. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Could be strut, top strut mount/ bearing, sway bar link Does the sound go away if you're on the brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Sway bar endlinks are relatively new (4-5 months old) so maybe... But I'll look into the top strut mount, it's worse with the brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tire pressures is the first thing I'd check. Then, maybe something in the rear suspension giving you steering effects. There's been lots of attention on the front, perhaps more on the rear would reveal something. Also, original shocks at how many miles? They may be ready for the pasture, not that they were that great from the factory! I guess what I am trying to figure out is whether this is contributing to the left pull, I guess I can see how the strut mount would do so. I definitely need to get under it and check to see if any of the LCA connections have come loose, as the problem seems like it would be the connection between the LCA and axle assembly. Any suggestions on new struts better than OEM? I can almost guarantee you're right about sending them to the pasture... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 When is the last time you got an alignment? What are your front caster angles looking like, the same? What is the thrust angle? Post your printout. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 When is the last time you got an alignment? What are your front caster angles looking like, the same? What is the thrust angle? Post your printout. Got it done a month and a half ago. Soon as I am off work I'll post it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I guess what I am trying to figure out is whether this is contributing to the left pull...Any suggestions on new struts better than OEM? I can almost guarantee you're right about sending them to the pasture... I don't think struts would contribute to the pulling under power issue. Some of the other things you described, like sensitivity to crosswinds, they would. The suspension not feeling stable on bumpy surfaces, etc. The stock shocks are probably the weakest link in the Legacy GT suspension. For new struts, for a daily driver I like the Koni yellows (Koni Sports) on this car. You can use your stock springs with them if you're happy with the current ride height and stiffness. If you use lowering springs, it's best to only lower a very small amount, like 0.50 to 0.75 inch. You need compliance and plenty of travel in the suspension for a daily driven road car, especially if you deal with rough roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I'm thinking it might be the tires, just the tread depth and tread design. Possibly tramlining or something like that. You mention new tires, what kind are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Tell me if you can see these, having trouble with the uploader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 The one without handwriting was after I installed my LCA's, the one with handwriting is after doing the steering rack bushings/brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 I'm thinking it might be the tires, just the tread depth and tread design. Possibly tramlining or something like that. You mention new tires, what kind are they? They are all-season tires, road hugger GT ultra, apparently they are rebranded Nitto tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I've experienced something similar to what you describe with certain snow tires on my legacy, and years ago when my dad had a 2011 4runner with an odd sized tire from the factory. I think the culprit might be a combination of different things, tread depth and tread design, but primarily soft sidewalls. What tire pressure are you running? If my theory is right, increasing the tire pressure could help reduce the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 I've experienced something similar to what you describe with certain snow tires on my legacy, and years ago when my dad had a 2011 4runner with an odd sized tire from the factory. I think the culprit might be a combination of different things, tread depth and tread design, but primarily soft sidewalls. What tire pressure are you running? If my theory is right, increasing the tire pressure could help reduce the problem. I'll see if upping it 5psi per tire will help, I just use recommend pressure ratings inside the doorjam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I suggest using the recommended pressure on the sidewall of the tire. The information on the door jamb is useless now since you are no longer on a factory-supplied tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 I suggest using the recommended pressure on the sidewall of the tire. The information on the door jamb is useless now since you are no longer on a factory-supplied tire. I honestly haven't found a recommended tire pressure on any tires I've ever purchased, only max PSi. I might be missing something so I'll take a look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 You're right, the sidewall only has max inflation psi. I tend to always run around 36psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Sorry for the revival, but finally remembered to get some more air in the tires, now running f-38 r-36, and overall this helped immensely, I still feel the pull to the left, however it's lessened quite a bit. Maybe time for a guy that's really good with alignments try his hand instead of getting Les Schwab'd. Also, I am looking into getting under-way with having the rear-end beefed up, I am thinking: -Whiteline or Megan rear control arm/trailing arm assemblies -AVO rear swaybar mount reinforcements -AVO rear swaybar ends -Whiteline Swaybar Anything I'm missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 I'm sure others will chime in. Your SAI is off to the left.. If a qualified shop can explain that to you and look for the issue (bent or misaligned parts usually) Sometimes its more than that (frame). Ive taken problem vehicles to a body shop before, they will get it sorted. Good luck! Also, do yourself a favor and figure the problem out before you change anything else. A qualified alignment tech should be able to pinpoint it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk2k7 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Marvick08GT, I had a guy look at my spec sheets and deemed it not to be the core problem, but added to it some. He and I spitballed for a few minutes and when I was going through the list of stuff I had done to my front end, he stopped me at the CV axle. He asked which joints I replaced, I told him only the one under the downpipe. He thinks that maybe that because I only replaced the one, that it freed up the passenger side, and the driver side is having trouble keeping up with the old grease/bearings. Don't know what to make of it, but I guess ill try to replace ALL the CV joints now, hell maybe the wheel bearings while I am at it, and the tie-rod ends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 ABS light on? Perhaps speed sensor bad on RF causing intermittent braking on that wheel during acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.