Battery Charger in My Car

[Gillbornue]

Hi, all

 

Most importantly, thanks especially to read my post. I need to make an auto battery charge after I saw an article presenting something about it. All things considered, I might want to ask some assistance.

 

As the exposition appears, This auto battery charger circuit can be utilized to charge 12V and 6V batteries. On the off chance that it is utilized a transformer that can convey 4A to 5A at a voltage in the vicinity of 12.6V and 16V then we can dispose of the switch for 6V or 12V batteries. The schematic is given beneath.

 

It likewise gave some support tip about the auto battery.

 

The auto battery charging current is consequently constrained to 4.2A. On the off chance that there is a 600mV voltage on R1 (4A through it), at that point, the T1 transistor begins to direct. Inordinate charging current is stayed away from in light of the fact that the present estimation of T3's base is constrained. The distinction between connected load current (at T4's authority) and genuine voltage of the battery are adjusted through T4's gatherer producer intersection. According to the datasheet of 2N3055AG https://www.icrfq.com/part/1926205-2N3055AG.html

 

The power contribution of 2N3055AG is the result of load current and voltage distinction as of now said. While charging 6V auto battery this power achieves a greatest of 40W. The rectifier diodes must have the capacity to convey 4A at 40V. T4 2N3055 must be mounted on a decent heatsink keeping in mind the end goal to scatter the warmth.

 

Nonetheless, I can't comprehend what byx21-40 is?

 

1) Is it like a diode rectifier ??

 

2).and what is 21-40 implies like between 21-40 or simply it's datasheet code (since I scarcely discovered it on google)

 

3).and if it's being sold similarly as it is and considers the possibility that I didn't discover it in the market.

 

Sorry for every one of the inquiries yet I'm a mechanical specialist and gadgets is a leisure activity for me so I'm not proficient.

 

Much obliged to you once more,

 

Kind Regards.

[ehsnils]

Hmm... From what you write there's a lack of schematics so it's not that easy to grip the entire logic.

 

However BYX21 is a diode. The "-40" is a suffix denoting a variant of that.

 

I did get the following when looking for the specs for BYX21:

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Fun3/car-battery-charger.gif

 

In this schematics the BYX21 is a full wave rectifier, so you can replace it with just any rectifier that is able to cope with sufficient current and voltage.

 

Just be aware that the charger you seem to be building is a fairly simple device and that there are smarter chargers available over the counter today. Of course there are microprocessors available too that can manage this, but then it's going to be a lot more complicated to build.

[MilesA]

...Just be aware that the charger you seem to be building is a fairly simple device and that there are smarter chargers available over the counter today. Of course there are microprocessors available too that can manage this, but then it's going to be a lot more complicated to build.

 

Agreed, why solve a problem that has already been solved at reasonable cost? I have this one. It is not only a battery charger, but a battery maintainer and has some desulphation action, plus works well with AGM batteries if you use them.

 

http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/ctek-multi-us-3300/

 

Runs about $55-60 ordered online.

[ehsnils]

I agree on the CTEK chargers, I have for some reason 3 different of them. Unfortunately they do produce a bit of RFI on HF frequencies. Not badly but noticeable, which can be an issue when you run ham radio.

[Gillbornue]

Thanks for your reply and guiding me regarding my query. I will change the rectifier and let you know my update.

[ehsnils]

Thanks for your reply and guiding me regarding my query. I will change the rectifier and let you know my update.

 

Don't forget to put some de-coupling capacitors in parallel with the diodes, about 1 to 10 nF is fine. This will lower the amount of RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) that the rectifier will emit.

 

http://home.computer.net/~pritch/images/bridge2.jpg

[DonnyJagaru]

The schematic (with the transistor) above is basically a current source supply. I would simply choose a transformer and rectifier combination (like the schematic directly above) to provide about 14.4Vdc and then put a power resistor in series to limit current. Perhaps 4.7Ω/10W. This way as the batteries comes up to full charge the current drops to a trickle and won't boil them. This is the circuit I use in my workshop to keep my Dynasty battery topped up and it's been going on 16 years now.