How to read TCM codes on a phase I 4EAT?

[Kamen]

My car is a 1998 Legacy sedan, of the latter production run (dual-piston disk brakes is one feature distinguishing from other 1998). According to some 'net sources, this should be a Phase I 4EAT.

I searched the 'net for the procedure steps and found those:

1) Warm up the engine
2) Turn the ignition switch OFF
3) Turn the ignition switch ON
4) Start the engine
5) Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH
6) Stop the vehicle
7) Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1"
8) Turn the ignition switch to OFF
9) Turn the ignition switch to ON
10) Move the gear selector to "2"
11) Move the gear selector to "1"
12) Move the gear selector to "2"
13) Move the gear selector to "3"
14) Move the gear selector to "D"

but it is not working for me - no blinking of any kind. Are those not the proper steps for my car or am I not doing it right? I tried various timings (fast, slow), but I don't know what else there is to get wrong with that procedure.

 

I have changed the AT fluid every 30K miles, like on my 1995, which was still going strong when I sold it at 300K miles. The fluid is now less than 15K-miles-old and still in good shape - level, color, smell, etc. The only thing that is worth mentioning, and mostly because I read somewhere that someone had the same experience: I had a torn CV-joint boot when this happened. I replaced it with a new one recently but the "AT oil temp" still blinks after starting the engine. It is never "on" after that. The thought there was that the spilled grease causes some short in the AT sensors. I power-washed the engine bay yesterday (with degreaser), so that's all clean now, but the stored codes are still there (the blinking of the dashboard light).

I don't drive this car much anymore - my wife and kids do. And it is also unfortunate that it has this emissions-related issue that causes the CEL to come on periodically. So I didn't pay much attention when I was told that "the light came on" - until the next check when I saw the torn boot. I replaced the entire half-shaft and I thought the binding I felt was from the old one, but it is still there; and some clunking towards the rear, but it may be unrelated. I read somewhere that if the TCM detects a problem, it will do something to cause such symptoms. Regardless, there seems to be something going on and I need to get to the bottom of it. But I can't read the TCM codes!

 

Update: I tried some more today, to no avail. I don't know what I'm missing, or maybe this is not the procedure for my car, but I can't get to those TCM codes.

 

Anyway, I saw for the first time the light blink (albeit, briefly) during driving and it was when I was following the procedure to get the codes... I also tried forcing FWD (with the fuse) but it seemed to make little difference - the torque binding is still there; not very strong but I can feel it. There is definitely a noise at the back, I think it's an abrupt engagement from the transfer clutch, like a spring hitting something (clunk!); but it could be anything the car has nearly 220K miles. There is also some leak at the rear differential, but it's been there for a long time, and I also keep that fluid fresh (less than 15K miles now).

 

When I bought that car, at 70K miles, it had suffered - it was wearing two different kinds of tires front/back and it already had a leak from the diff pinion seal, which I had replaced at a dealership. Maybe it wore off sooner than my other one, but at 220K, it is considerable. I just don't want to spend too much money to find out that the repair would be prohibitively expensive.

 

Do you think it's better to drive it at FWD until I figure something out?

 

Kamen

[Thor294]

FWD should only be used in emergency situations, as it will ruin the transmission if you drive it for a long time.

 

If you have FWD fuse, you should have 0 binding from the "center diff" or the rear end, as it has 0 power going to it. Did you visually inspect everything under the rear of the car? all tires same size and even wear?

[Kamen]

FWD should only be used in emergency situations, as it will ruin the transmission if you drive it for a long time.

 

If you have FWD fuse, you should have 0 binding from the "center diff" or the rear end, as it has 0 power going to it. Did you visually inspect everything under the rear of the car? all tires same size and even wear?

 

Of course, I've had this car for 15 years now, it's been maintained as well as one could. I replaced the half-shaft a couple of weeks ago and thought that was going to be it, but now those trouble codes! I'll put it on jacks this weekend again and look everywhere, but my biggest concern now is reading the TCM codes - why can't I get those?! There's a video on YouTube but they show from the moment the codes are blinking, not how they got to that point.

 

Kamen

[Kamen]

Has anyone here actually read the TCM codes without a Subaru Select Monitor, whether with the procedure above or any other attainable method?

 

BTW, just called the dealership and they said they'd read them for free! So, I'll take it there tomorrow, see what they say; I'll get an estimate for the repair and if it's less than the cost of the car , I may even consider having them do it.

 

Kamen

[Stevo F]

I tried 4 times to read the TCM codes on my '98 GT and it did nothing when I completed all the steps. Not sure if I was doing anything wrong or not. No signs of anything wrong with the car except the blinking AT TEMP light. It'll end up going to out mechanic to see if he can pull the code once the '97 GT is out of the shop.

[Kamen]

So, I just came back from the dealership. The verdict: "center diff clutch plates and slider bell damaged". I'm curious what this "slider bell" is, but CD clutch plates is what I suspected all along. The transmission is terminally ill, they recommend replacement. At a cost for which I could buy a better car. Bummer! I guess, I'll let my daughter drive it until it becomes problematic.

Kamen