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Oddly specific conditions produce coolant leak


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I haven't been able to find this problem on this or any other forum, so anyone who has any ideas, I'd be glad to hear them.

 

I've got a 2007 GT Limited, 119,000ish miles, but the engine only has around 80,000. The previous owner never changed the oil and ruined the seals and head gasket, so the dealership I got it from swapped in a slightly less-used engine. I've had it at the Subaru dealership twice: once to take care of a recall (secondary air pump relay) and once to tighten the clamps on the fuel lines, which started leaking a couple weeks after I got the car home.

 

So, here's the new problem: I've had coolant leak now precisely twice. Last Friday, I went to get some takeout at a restaurant the next town over, about eight miles away. The speed limit is 55 most of the way (but everyone does about 60-65). I came back to work, parked in the warehouse, and when I came out later, there was a fairly large pool of coolant under my car. The reservoir was empty, so I freaked out, called the Subaru dealership and asked if they had any openings, but they were slammed. Despite the leak and low reservoir, the temp gauge was just sitting at normal range when I left work...not even a tiny bit high, just right where it always is, half way up. I figured I'd just add some 50/50 and hope for the best until I could get it looked at. I went to the local auto parts store, got a gallon of coolant, and popped the hood. At this point, the reservoir was pretty full after sitting for a while at work - about half way between the low and full marks. I added a little coolant, about a half a pint, and went home, which was about 11 miles away. The speed limit on the route I take is 65 most of the way. Looked under the car at home later, and nothing. For one week, not a single drop of coolant leaked.

 

Until today. And the situation was exactly the same - I went to the same restaurant for takeout, drove back to work, parked in the same spot, came out about an hour later, and BAM...puddle o' coolant again. Fairly large this time, too - about a pint, but not quite as much as the first time. It seems to be leaking from the back of the engine on the driver's side.

 

I haven't had this car very long (I test drove it to exactly 118,000 miles the day I bought it), and I've always owned GMs or Nissans, (calling me a shadetree would be generous) so, needless to say, I have very little knowledge of boxer engines, or Subarus in general. I figured I'd just like to get a car with a reputation for reliability after my Yukon started falling apart, and this one was in my price range. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? I'm getting an oil change at the Subaru dealership tomorrow, but they only do routine maintenance stuff on the weekends, so the regular mechanics won't be there. I'm curious as to why there haven't been any leaks in between those two trips to that restaurant, and what could be leaking intermittently on the back of the engine. Any help is greatly appreciated!

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My best bet is that it is a heater core hose judging by the location. If you can pull the topmount off it would be really easy to access.

 

I hope that's all it is. A guy I work with suggested that, too. I have heard something that sounds like bubbling behind the steering wheel when I turn the car off, could that be related?

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If it were me, I'd have the dealership do a hydrocarbon test.

 

Googling (legacygt.com) says the bubbling sound could be air in the cooling system. So I'm wondering if you have a blown head gasket, air entering the system that way. The hydrocarbon test sniffs for combustion chamber gasses in the coolant overflow tank.

 

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Agree with apexi. Check first to see if exhaust gas is getting into the cooling system, if you can rule that out then look at other possibilities. You are not overheating according to the gauge, how else can one explain loss of coolant? It is being displaced somehow.
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Any repair shop can do the same test as well as pressurize the system to see if there are any leaks.

 

If the dealer still covers the car under warranty then yes, if your paying, find a good local repair shop.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Mrs. Spif's LGT makes noises behind the dash when it is shut down...just thought it was something to do with the hvac controls closing up everything. Now you guys have me worried it could be something bigger.

 

Pressure testing the radiator would only tell me if there is a leak but wouldn't it puff white smoke on start up if it were a head gasket? If it's a head gasket and combustion gasses are getting into the coolant, wouldn't the pressure in the system push coolant into the cylinder when the engine isn't running? Guessing the hydrocarbon test equipment would be expensive so what other driveway tests can be done to troubleshoot?

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Back of engine on driver side suggests the little hoses to the throttle body. If the intercooler-TB hose is not properly seated, it will drip oil onto those hoses and they will degenerate. Easy to pull the TMIC and check; you may also be able to get visuals with a flashlight and mirror, possibly from underneath.
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Mrs. Spif's LGT makes noises behind the dash when it is shut down...just thought it was something to do with the hvac controls closing up everything. Now you guys have me worried it could be something bigger.

 

Pressure testing the radiator would only tell me if there is a leak but wouldn't it puff white smoke on start up if it were a head gasket? If it's a head gasket and combustion gasses are getting into the coolant, wouldn't the pressure in the system push coolant into the cylinder when the engine isn't running? Guessing the hydrocarbon test equipment would be expensive so what other driveway tests can be done to troubleshoot?

 

That is an actuator issue. My car does the same thing I just haven't replaced it yet :redface:

 

Fix the leak before you do a hydrocarbon test. I accidentally pinched a heater hose around the thermostat when I did my timing belt that caused coolant to drip onto the exhaust. I got the bubbling in the dash and all other signs of a serious probem. It was sucking air into the system from the tiny hole I put in the hose getting the damn clamp off. I even got the bubbling in the overflow tank.

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HC test is quick and easy, The shop will just turn on the sniffer and walk up to the running engine and wave it over the radiator with the cap off.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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HC test is quick and easy, The shop will just turn on the sniffer and walk up to the running engine and wave it over the radiator with the cap off.

 

The only issue with doing this before fixing the leak is it can skew the reading. It's not overheating and only leaking coolant at a certain place that he frequents.

 

Without anyone looking under the hood, it could even be coolant that puddled up places when the dealer worked on the car. Find the leak, fix the leak, properly burp the system then make sure you don't have a headgasket issue.

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Ok, so I had the Subaru tech do an inspection when I got my oil changed (there was one there today), and he couldn't find a leak anywhere. He did say that the coolant was low, and topped it off for me. He suggested a pressure check. I'll post back here after I've got that done, if they even find anything - am I going crazy? He also said that I'll need to be getting the CV joints replaced (re-packed?) soon because one was slinging oil, but that's for another thread. Thanks for all your answers!
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So, I got the CV joints re-packed, and this time, coolant leaked right where I stopped the car when I dropped it off at the Subaru service center. I had them look at it, and they found it! The cause was *drum roll* the heater core hoses. Apparently, the clamps that hold those in place are a one-use deal, and whoever replaced the engine reused the old clamps, and they weren't tight enough. Got new clamps, and the problem has been solved. So, good job, Darth SpecB - you nailed it. Thanks everyone for helping out.
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