Jubs Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out with this one. Really would appreciate it if someone can get back to me ASAP as this is my only day to work on the car. So I've done my homework and I can't find anyone with this same issue. In summery, my front LCA rear nut is frozen with the stud. The nut is rounded off and is currently in a nut remover socket (holy shit is this tool amazing). I was super happy to see it coming off... until I realized that the chassis stud is actually the one that's unthreading. This is the vertical stud that goes into the floor pan and isn't supposed to move. The bolt doesn't seem to be damaged and is unthreading itself quite nicely actually. So this leads me to believe that the inside nut is still attached to the chassis... somehow. So here's my question. Can I just get a M14 x 1.5mm bolt and thread that into the nut inside the chassis? I'm thinking I would use locktite blue and torque it somewhat low. Or, should I go the route of drilling the floorpan, knocking off the nut and reataching a new one. (i.e. take it to a shop at that point). I'm pretty sure that is the correct way of doing it. I haven't taken out the bolt just yet, I'd really like to hear from someone that actually knows what they're doing before going with the bolt method. I'm about to run to the hardware store to see if I can grab a meaty M14 bolt. Pictures are attached if it helps. Don't mind the inch thick layer of rust on everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 15, 2017 Moderators Share Posted July 15, 2017 I'm not an expert here, but I think you are over-thinking this. Pull the stud out, remove the stripped nut (you'll need a vise setup of some sort most likely), and reinstall the stud. OR, run to the dealer right now before they close and see if they can hook you up with a new stud. Just spin it back in and tighten it a bit using the double-nut method. Reinstall LCA with a new nut. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 The bolt idea is perfectly fine and will ease future removal if needed. 90% of cars use a bolt as opposed to a stud and nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jubs Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Thanks for the help guys. Rather over-think than under-think this. I was just under the impression that the stud is not supposed to budge, but I guess that's not the case. I'll continue on and report back when finished to help out the next guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jubs Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Well, the nut ended up coming off before the stud. Threw a new nut on and tightened everything back up. Took me about 5mins. For anyone coming here for the same issue in the future, I suggest jacking up the wheel/hub before taking off the stud. Having the LCA be horizontal will remove any twisting force from the LCA bushing. Should make it a lot easier to remove/replace the stud. A 80-90mm bolt should do just fine. Thanks again for the help guys. Gotta go return these $8 bolts now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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