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Timing belt help!


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I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suspect belt stretch. My DOHC did the same thing on the left side of the motor. The intake and exhaust cams were off exactly one tooth after 2,000 miles with new idlers and tensioner and reusing the old belt thinking it had been replaced. I guess you can't trust a one owner car with 146k miles to have the damn belt changed, so I ordered a new Gates belt. I'm coming up on 3,000 miles since I dropped in a freshly rebuilt motor, so for kicks I might pull the covers off and check the timing.

 

To fix the stripped bolt, if you can't get it torqued, a simple fix might be to fill the hole with JB Weld, let it cure a day or two, drill it and tap it again.

 

Well, my belt is brand new, I think it was just off a hair when I installed it last time.

I really like the idea of the JB weld but I'm afraid I'd have the same issue with the thread not fitting in the hole. It's like the outside diameter is bigger than it needs to be. The thread I bought called for a 13/32 drill bit, which I did not have. However I had a 5/8 and if I'm not mistaken, a 5/8 is larger than a 13/32. I drilled the hole larger than what the thread called for and it is still too big to fit in the hole.

The bolt itself will thread in but it will only get so tight and then it gets loose again.

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Ok time for another update. As a matter of fact, I did drain coolant, I decided to do a flush since I was removing the radiator. I've got everything back together now and it sounds much better than before, however that bolt is still an issue, I fear it may come loose in the future.

 

I decided to go with a motorad thermostat, please don't hate me too much. I picked it up on RockAuto for like $4 if i'm not mistaken, plus I needed new serpentine belts. it is a little smaller than OEM

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e151/Sara32013/Thermostat_zpsqgyjduvy.jpg

 

Here are a couple videos of the car running.

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If that cross threaded bolt backs out You will kill that engine in a tenth of a second. You will need a heli-coil repair kit of the correct size for the original bolt. The instructions will have You drill the hole a size bigger then insert repair coil. If Your previous attempt You drilled the hole too big You need a kit that will compensate for the current hole size.
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If that cross threaded bolt backs out You will kill that engine in a tenth of a second.

 

+1 on that. If that isn't taken care of you're going to have a bad time. At idle it may seem fine, but spool that bad boy up to 5000-6000 RPM and hell is going to break loose.

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I know the risks, but I drove this thing yesterday, and I drove it to work this morning and I'm having no issue so far. I will revisit this very soon. I lost sleep over it honestly, but I'm already looking at options for a new engine.

 

 

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I tried to fix my cross threaded bolt by using a Heli-coil type thing, I actually bought a tap and the threads separately, it was much cheaper that way. I drilled and tapped the hole but the threads would not fit inside the hole, the threads fit on the bolt just fine but will not thread into the tapped hole, the bolt itself will thread in but will not torque to 29 ft-lbs it will not get that tight. I have no idea how to fix that. I did put the belt back on and started it and I didn't see any wobbling coming from that idler.

Sadly, the car sounds worse than it did before, I'm not sure how it could have possibly gotten worse.

Anyhow below are some pictures

This set of pictures shows the position of the marks before I lined everything up.

 

Did you buy the correct tap for the helicoil? Is the depth of the hole correct? Did you drill the hole straight? You could have chased the factory threads with a tap first to see if you just rolled the threads over.

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Did you buy the correct tap for the helicoil? Is the depth of the hole correct? Did you drill the hole straight? You could have chased the factory threads with a tap first to see if you just rolled the threads over.

 

 

 

Indeed the tap was an M10x1.5 just like the threads. As far as I can tell it was drilled and tapped strait. The bolt fits snugly just won't torque correctly. Perhaps I tapped too deep maybe?

 

 

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Indeed the tap was an m10x1.5 just like the threads. As far as I can tell it was drilled and tapped strait. The bolt fits snugly just won't torque correctly. Perhaps I tapped too deep maybe?

 

 

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The helicoil requires a special tap. Did you use the correct tap for the helicoil? The depth of the hole will only affect how far you can thread the screw in.

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The helicoil requires a special tap. Did you use the correct tap for the helicoil? The depth of the hole will only affect how far you can thread the screw in.

 

 

 

Perhaps not? I'm not real familiar with Helicoil. So I can't just use any M10x1.5 tap? That's all I used was a basic tap, The threads aren't Helicoil brand but something I picked up at Autozone.

 

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Perhaps not? I'm not real familiar with helicoil. So I can't just use any m10x1.5 tap? Because that's all I used was a basic tap. The threads aren't heli coil brand but something I picked up at autozone

 

 

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No. You need the correct tap for the helical insert you are using. You may need to buy a kit with the drill and tap. Are the timing pulley bolts M10?

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No. You need the correct tap for the helical insert you are using. You may need to buy a kit with the drill and tap. Are the timing pulley bolts M10?

 

 

Thanks for the advice I'll just buy a fix a thread kit I suppose. The bolt threaded into an M10x1.5 thread so I assume the bolt is indeed an M10.

 

 

 

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Alright everyone, I just went to Advance and bought a proper fix a thread kit, I also bought some JB weld and I may try what Setnev recommended. I was thinking about measuring the threads that will be in the hole and only drilling and tapping that far.

So far the car is still doing fine, I've put 40-50 miles on it today and at one point it saw 4k rpm's, didn't mean to get it that high but it happened. I still have to drive it until Monday, I know I'll be driving on borrowed time but if it makes it until then, when I start the job it will not be put back together until it's fixed properly.

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I'm really having issues finding the 13/32 drill bit required by this fix a thread kit. I found one on eBay, but it won't be here until Friday, I'm really hoping to get started by tomorrow, do you think it will hurt to use a 5/8?
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So I've run into another issue, I'm having no issue drilling and tapping the hole and the Heli-coil going in just fine, however, the bolt will not thread into the Heli-coil once installed, I'm thinking that maybe the Heli-coil isn't it's actual size until it's installed. I recently believed the bolt was M10x1.5. However, the actual size maybe M10x1.25 instead. I'm just going to pick up an M10x1.5 and see if that threads in.
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(In Professor Farnsworth voice) GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!

The original bolts were indeed M10x1.25. For a quick fix, I just went and bought a high strenth M10x1.5 bolt for that particular hole so I could still use my Heli-coil.

Everything is now properly torqued and properly timed. I can finally rest easy again. Thanks, everyone so much for all the help with this.

Also, just a side note but the messed up bolt that was "barely" tight, was still just as tight as I left it after putting a couple hundred miles on it, just dumb luck I suppose.

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