Reloadit Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 After finally getting my car running after a long down time this winter and lots of discussion here, problem was a bad fuel pump that sometime kicked on and sometimes did not. Anyways, after the fuel pump replacement I had stutter and or hesitation that wasn't too bad but I decided to try replacing the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TPS on the off chance that was the problem. The old THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TPS was put in completely off center. It was cranked as clockwise as it could be positioned and I have read that it should be centered. I put the new one in on center and it moved the throttle quite a bit and caused it to idle WAY TOO HIGH. I didn't do the ECU reset of disconnect battery wait 45 minutes but instead I put the new one right where the old one was and did a ECU reset but still get a check engine light on and it sure doesn't act right from a dead stop acceleration. I have the new one positioned same as old but the check engine light remains on after resetting the ECU and I get a completely different feel when starting from a dead stop. Doing a another ECU reset while I post this. I wonder if I do a full reset with the new THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TPS centered will it change the fast idle that much or is there another way to adjust this control valve so it can be placed in the center of the mount and not idle so high? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 What is the code you are getting that is setting CE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 What is the code you are getting that is setting CE? Wasn't getting a code at all until I took the old TPS out and put the new one in. I read a lot and found that a lot of people would have trouble before a code showed up. I just put the old one back in and doing a 45 minute ECU reset again and then if the Check Engine is still up I can get it checked. It wasn't running terribly bad, and quite frankly it has been running better now that it is getting hot here in the past 4 days. I will update in a few minutes when I check to see what it is doing with the old one back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 Just started it after the reset with the old TPS put back in and the check engine light did not come back on so there is that. I think I got it right were it was, as it was marked. Maybe the part I bought on Ebay isn't the right part or I just need to know how to adjust it better. I did notice I had a loose throttle cable, the actual peddle cable not the cruise cable and I have taken the slack out of it, but I can't imagine the slack would affect the way it behaves while cruising at 40mph. The nuts where loose so the whole cable could've been moving a bit, maybe? Will drive it and see what she does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 There is a growing plague of counterfeit parts on ebay that are total junk made in China. They look about the same, but don't have the same grade of steel/plastic/electonics. They work for a very short time or not at all. There is testing you could do between the old and new part to see how they compare, but that would be a bit of work. You'd want specs from the FSM to do that. If the new one codes and the old one doesn't, I think that is enough answer. If you were anywhere near North Central AZ I'd help you with some live data to see if we could see what's going on with your TPS and with the car in general. If you have a smart phone and were willing to do the work you could get one of the $6 bluetooth OBDII senders to connect to your smart phone (Android anyway, not sure on others) along with free Torque app. Then you can see exactly what is going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 I don't know if it is the warmer weather or the lose throttle cable but after putting the old one back in and tightening up the throttle cable it has been running like a top. Do you think this ECU reset will do more than just having the battery disconnected? This is the reset procedure I used "Pull the battery cable for 45 minutes or pull the ECU fuse for 45 minutes. Put the car in neutral, put the ebrake on, put the fuse or cable back on, and start the car. Let it get to running temp or 10 minutes - whatever comes first. Then shut the car off. Do not touch the gas or anything. If that kind of reset does more than just taking the battery cable off, it might be part of the reason it is running better. It's running so well now I'm thinking about getting the AC system repaired and charged. I'd be all uptown then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 I don't know what kind of tricks and stunts the computer has to avoid losing its learned tables. From wideband O2 and other logging I feel like I get the same scratch start re-learn from 45 minutes of no battery as I get from 17 weeks of no battery. It seems to take 10 minutes or more before it starts to learn anything. (I've always skipped the idle parked step and drive gently until it starts to get the AFR in place. Maybe I shouldn't skip that... Then I drive progressively more aggressive until it's learned pretty much everything you can do around town without getting a ticket. 30 minutes or more of mixed city driving with some stretches nearing highway. Then it seems to take days of driving before it gets regulated all the way to redline with WOT and during 80mph highway cruise. I should clarify that it's getting AFR about right through all of this, but it does it by using STFT. The time part is where it is slowly fixing LTFT. In case I'm using too much jargon for someone that comes along and reads this... AFR=Air Fuel Ratio WOT=Wide Open Throttle STFT=Short Term Fuel Trim -- should be toward 0 for most of driving LTFT=Long Term Fuel Trim -- Ideally also near 0 unless you have a problem or mods but manufacturing differences lead to it not being actually 0. +-10% wouldn't be out of line. +-30% or thereabouts will typically set Check Engine Light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 So far so good. I haven't taken it over the mountains yet and I am hoping that it was just the slop in the throttle cable and lose hardware at the bracket that was causing the stutter and hesitation. It seemed to stutter or hesitate around 30 to 40 mph more and on taking off before reaching operating temperature. Right now it purrs like a kitten at idle, no hesitation at all when I start and drive in the mornings but the morning are now about 60 degrees instead of 40 degrees. All I need now is AC and to either do the power steering gasket replace or get a new power steering pump because that is my only leaking I have now. I'm feeling pretty optimistic now, thinking maybe I can get my $4500 in parts and labor our of this car. It might have been you doublechaz who warned me before about doing power steering gasket kits, someone did. Someone said they sometimes do the trick and sometimes make things worse. I may have to wait til next winter to see if the issue has been resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 I don't think it was me. I've been thinking about what to do with my PS pump as well. It's kinda weeping a tiny bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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