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How To: Replace AVCS Oil Control Valves (OCV's)


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Getting a little off topic here. But It's a JDM motor with dual AVCS (intake and exhaust), your USDM ECU only has intake AVCS, thus exhaust AVCS is unusable, hence unplugged.

 

Whether or not that's healthy is beyond the scope of this thread :).

 

Sorry and thanks for the help.

 

@covertrussian call me stupid if you may, but the driver side OCV is located at the bottom of the car or on top?

Edited by Carmania24
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  • 2 weeks later...
how did you pry out the passenger side? I got to the point where it needed about 1.5-2cm to come out but I was afraid to damage it and also if it pops out, not being able to put it back in. Any tips on taking out the passenger side would be appreciated.
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Sorry and thanks for the help.

 

@covertrussian call me stupid if you may, but the driver side OCV is located at the bottom of the car or on top?

 

Missed this edit. Driver side is on top too, intake vales are ontop on both halfs.

 

how did you pry out the passenger side? I got to the point where it needed about 1.5-2cm to come out but I was afraid to damage it and also if it pops out, not being able to put it back in. Any tips on taking out the passenger side would be appreciated.

 

Try to rotate it while pulling it out, if that doesn't work lightly tap on the metal bracket to push it out. It's screwed in and sealed with an O-ring so it should go in easily with new valve.

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Wow, when taking out my passenger side, I just had to rotate it a little bit and wiggle it at the end and it came right now. I'm curious what you are hanging up on.

 

I wiggled it and rotated and it was stuck on the coolant tank bracket/mount. Needed about 1.5-2cm more to take it out. I was afraid if I force it out, I wouldn't be able to put it back in. I am trying to swap the driver side with passenger side to see if it code will change from P0021 to P0011.

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I wiggled it and rotated and it was stuck on the coolant tank bracket/mount. Needed about 1.5-2cm more to take it out. I was afraid if I force it out, I wouldn't be able to put it back in. I am trying to swap the driver side with passenger side to see if it code will change from P0021 to P0011.

 

You've unbolted the upper coolant tank so you can shift that right?

Is this the bracket that's on the intake manifold?

I rotated the bracket on the OCV 90 degrees toward the outside of the engine and was able to get it past with minimal leveraging.

 

The trick for me was to pull the first valve cover hose to get enough clearance.

If you have original hoses it might shatter, so may want to plan to replace it just in case.

I had replaced with new hoses a month before so it went smoothly.

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hey, thanks for the reply.

 

Of course, took the engine cover off. Unbolted the coolant tank and pushed it to the side so it's out of the way. Unhooked that breather hose, had to do that on both sides of the engine. Pried out the OCV with screwdriver slowly, one it was out I was able to move it out with hands. Once it hits the coolant tank bracket, turned it 90 degrees. Wiggled it to the point that I could no longer move it with my hands, needed about 1.5cm more to come out. I got a blister on my finger from wiggling and pushing lol that's how tight it was. If that bracket was in like 2-3mm towards the engine, OCV would slide out easily.

I might try tapping that coolant tank bracket with hammer just to gain the clearance. I'm just afraid to break it.

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hey, thanks for the reply.

 

Of course, took the engine cover off. Unbolted the coolant tank and pushed it to the side so it's out of the way. Unhooked that breather hose, had to do that on both sides of the engine. Pried out the OCV with screwdriver slowly, one it was out I was able to move it out with hands. Once it hits the coolant tank bracket, turned it 90 degrees. Wiggled it to the point that I could no longer move it with my hands, needed about 1.5cm more to come out. I got a blister on my finger from wiggling and pushing lol that's how tight it was. If that bracket was in like 2-3mm towards the engine, OCV would slide out easily.

I might try tapping that coolant tank bracket with hammer just to gain the clearance. I'm just afraid to break it.

 

Which year do you have? Wondering if it's a difference in a later year or not.

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I think I know what it might be, the damn banjo filter!!! Take out the banjo bolt and see if yours has the banjo filter in there, it could be stuck inside the OCV valve.

 

I second @covertrussian. The filter is probably wedged on the valve and stop it from turning out

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  • 1 year later...

I had stumbling idle, and a gassy exhaust smell. It may be a leaking fuel pulsation damper as well, but I have never looked at the ocv or the screens above it.

 

Wow, what did I find, but the screens destroyed, and pieces stuck in the valve, preventing it from open/close, and holding it part way open on both oil circuits.

 

Has Subaru ever released a service bulletin on this ridiculous fault?

 

I cleaned up both ocv, and applied 12v to operate them, and cleaned further in both positions. They both snap open / shut cleanly.

 

Plugging them back in today, to test out. Perhaps my gassy smell was just from the rich exhaust, and my shitty rear hatch latch, or who knows. Find that problem next.

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