kkushner4474 Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 What I am referencing too in the title can be seen in the video. Back story. Had noise, knocking under slow speed hard degree turns. Time to replace front axels, but before I got to do that... I had my TOB bearing go, and limped to a safe place. Got it towed home, replaced clutch and fly wheel, added TSK3 snout. Finally installed new front axles. Along with came a constant "card in bicycle spokes" sound during deceleration. Didn't matter what gear I was in or clutch in or out. Next started to notice a nice metal on metal clunk sound from time to time, subtle at first but seems to be getting worse.. So today I put the car up on all fours to take a look. When car is in any gear, 5th is the worse it has the "card in spokes" sound. But what drew my attention was my front driver side wheel. At first I noticed it wasn't spinning as fast as the rest. Then I put my hand on it and it stopped, not just the wheel but the axle also. What to do next? Edit: Pointed out by my friend, I lack in the know how of open diffs Original problem still remains, metal cling clang sound from underneath, and "card in bicycle spokes". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 There have been issues with after market axles in these cars. Think I'd replace one of them first. I assume you didn't damage the backing plate on the brakes and it's not a rotor hitting the metal plate ? Check for a heat shield hitting the propeller shaft too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkushner4474 Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 when I replaced axles only one was bad but I wanted things to be symmetrical. So I am going to pull one and compare to the good OEM one. As far as backing plate, I do not think so, I'll check. After engine removal many heat shields did not make it back. The ones that stayed are securely rusted in place. I can feel a reverberation through the stick shift when the "cling clang" happens. Others I have talked to think U joint. If I remove the drive/propeller shaft and start up the car, listening for the sound, I could potentially identify where the noise is coming from. If there is no noise, then propeller shaft, U joint or rear diff. Sound; would point towards center diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Interesting to see what happens when you pull the Prop shaft and start the car. You can just reset the ECU to clear the CEL that will happen. That would be a sure way to see where the noise is not... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkushner4474 Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 So I found out the new axles I bought from rock auto are too short. I have one good OEM front axle and the other that needs rebuilding. Now is it possible to transfer the cv joints/boots/ends from the short axle and transfer to the OEM correct length axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 In theory it should be possible. Not to be a ____ but if you would have bought the axle from a local auto parts store, it would be much easier to return it for the correct one. What you found is what my trusted mechanic told me years ago, lot's of reman's are short. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Fox Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I would recommend CVJ axles in Denver, Colorado. They ONLY rebuild OEM axles, they're about $80.00/each and 75.00 core return. They ONLY take back Subaru OEM cores. These are pretty much the only remanufactured axles that will be as close to new OEM's without paying $350+/axle. I've ran Cardone A1 new and reman axles in my 2005 Forester and they seem to work just fine front and rear. But my 2005 Outback does not like them at all. I've also tried NAPA axles, but NAPA's new and reman supplier is Cardone, so they're the same. Dreaded I was going to have to order Subaru OEM remans, but then found CVJ and they're top quality. High reviews from just about everyone who uses them. Local Subaru dealers up in the Northern part of Colorado use them often and recommend them highly as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 read post 165, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243p5.html Blue fox, if you like the CVJ axles, add them to here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html We're all way's looking for good parts info. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkushner4474 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 After multiple busy weekends and headaches I finally rebuilt my oem axles and they are as good as new. However I still have the deceleration noise and my next task is going to be changing out the center diff. My local junkyard has a listing inventory along with car's vin number. Is there any way I can tell that my 2009 LGt limited turbo 5mt will match with what they have available. Handful of foresters, some legacys and wagons, and early base model imprezas. According to rallispec it lists it as a viscous 4kgf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 wait do i understand this right remain axles from CVJ axles are only $5 if you give them you old oem core, 80/each 75/core. or are they 80 with the 75/core making them 160 or so without the core? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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