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Battery replacement and rewiring


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I threw this together in about an hour after I broke a corroded positive mount installing a new battery. The car won't start. I just want to know if I messed something up or if it's an issue with another part. Thanks.

 

 

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I threw this together in about an hour after I broke a corroded positive mount installing a new battery. The car won't start. I just want to know if I messed something up or if it's an issue with another part. Thanks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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b57a35430055ca528b5679bbd287d1d5.jpg

 

 

 

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Don't leave that clamp unbolted like that, I'm sure it's wedged on there but all it takes is a pothole or bump to wiggle it free and shut the car down. On our 35 sized battery the pos and neg terminals are slightly different sizes so without getting the OEM clamps, the only way to get a nice fit is to use the lead clamps, not the "lead free" steel ones, gold ones or any of the others. Lead is the only material soft enough to be manipulated to fit both of our weird sized terminals. Also for your application, it's be a cleaner install if you get a lead marine style clamp, that style has a threaded stud that you can slide the wires down over, that way you get all the wires onto one mounting point verses using the bolts like you did.
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Would the absence of the bolt effect starting the car? And yes the clamp is wedged on the post tight but I'll put a thinner bolt in there so I don't have to get a new lead clamp.

 

 

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Not having a bolt in combination with the clamp wedged on there could have a weak enough connection to not start the car, but it's hard to, The clamp should, in an ideal situation, wrap around the entire post, and in your set up, you have about 1/4 of it exposed, so its possible that you will have instability in the cranking output from that.
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