Doom83 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi. New user. New owner of first Subaru. Though familiar with them somewhat. Bought 06 LGT limited recently after finding only anecdotal reasons not to buy over many convincing reasons to buy. One fear may have came true. Thinking head gasket, if so. With new turbo, 144000k. What is avg shop cost for parts and labor if it is the hg? Turnaround? Other wise procedures to consider while the motors open? Ease and cost of taking the opportunity to stage 2 it with stock turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Turbo models have much better head gaskets than the normally-aspirated cars. Not to say head gaskets don't fail, but it is not nearly as common. What leads you to think you need head gaskets, IOW what symptoms? Are you seeing an external leak of coolant and/or oil? Are you seeing coolant mixed in the oil? Or exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system? Do you know the modification history of this car? Why was the turbo replaced? If the old turbo destroyed itself while the engine was running, it can be very bad news for the engine. Stop driving, and assess. Perhaps the previous owner modded the car, thrashed it nearly to death, and then put it back to stock before selling it. If new head gaskets are needed, typically the heads would be checked for flatness and reground if needed. Exhaust valves may be toasted on engines with higher miles. Mild valve job if needed. Valve clearances inspected and set if needed. New valve cover gaskets, spark plug hole gaskets, other gaskets or seals if accessible. New timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam/crank seals if needed. Remove AVCS banjo bolt if not done yet. Cost, it really depends on what needs to be done. Call around and ask. Try to find an independent Subaru shop that does this all the time. Or if you are the DIY type, it is a big job but you can DIY. Definitely replace the stock uppipe if still in place. Definitely get rid of stock banjo bolt filter on turbo oil line. If you are changing the uppipe, the downpipe must be unbolted anyway, so it is easy to replace with a stage 2 piece. Make sure you get the car tuned if you this. Don't put it off. At the same time, if you have major mechanical work to be done, don't start modding until that is all sorted out. Downpipe replacement is easy enough to do when you are ready to go stage 2. Just get rid of that stock catted uppipe if you still have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Any update, OP, how's it going? Hope you did not get scared off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doom83 Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Hey, thanks for the reply I had totally forgot I posted til I checked my older email. So it turned out worse than I initially assumed in that I'm looking at a new motor in some form yet to be determined. Still looking for advice on who to go to for help but it's no less than a new shortblock. Turbo should be fine. It's rod knock. I want to maybe put a 257 long block with corresponding turbo but it might be easier to just rebuild the 255 and tune it after, idk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 You should stick around here more, lots of great info. Read my click here link, you can skip some of the useless post in it, but its a good read. Most of what you need to know is in the sticky's on here. Get a new ej257 shortblock, have your heads rebuilt, have ARP head studs installed. If you go stage 2 you'll need a tune for the 3" downpipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doom83 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 So would having my heads rebuilt with arp studs installed give similar characteristics to the 257 heads? I thought it would be more beneficial if getting a 257 short block to have the 257 heads proper to go with them as they apparently flow better plus how wise would it be to use my old heads and the 255 turbo though practically new instead of just ordering a 257 longblock from say gear head and have a tuner shop tune the ecu to work with the sti build since the original ecu is still mapped for the original LGT motor. Also. Can I run a 255 short block with 257 heads and my 255 turbo without a ecu calibration? Anyone familiar with gear head motor rebuilds or tgp tuning in blairsville pa? I'm going to an actually Subaru shop tomorrow to see what their ideas are. Would anyone recommend the original motor rebuilt or new through Subaru with a later stage 2 tune over a full sti 257 swap? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Most of us will say stay stock and stay happy. Just follow what most of us do, new ej257 short block have your heads rebuilt, get the engine gasket set for your year car. I had my heads ported by my local machine shop, which knows how to do these heads, you can't just enlarge the ports like a V8. if this is going to be a race car them may be the dual AVS heads might be worth it, or just turn up the boost a little more. Some do put STI heads on a legacy GT, but why bother, its not a race car. The ARP studs help hold the heads in place better then stock bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.