leadfootny Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I have a legacy 2.5i built before 5/1/05 with a bad driveshaft. I am trying to find a replacement that is less than the 700 that the dealer wants. Every one in the junkyards have bad joints as well. Unfortunately there are very few shafts in my area to choose from. I am wondering if anyone knows if a post 5/1 shaft would work or at least what the difference is. I am reading that it is either a different part or was superceded and a newer one would work. Any help is appreciated! Thanks! Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Check with one of the dealer Vendors from the Vendor link on the blue bar above. You can get a OEM for around $500. Check the Sticky by JmP6889928, it list a few places for shafts. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadfootny Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Thanks, but i am really looking for interchange info so i can buy a 05-09 from the junkyard. $500 is still way more than i want to spend on a car that has 1-2 years of life left... Especially on a repair that should only cost $30. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Check out http://www.car-part.com . I've bought several things from different dismantlers with great results. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Check out www.car-part.com . I've bought several things from different dismantlers with great results. You beat me to that web link... good info there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadfootny Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 I am well versed in the ways of car-part.com. The problem there is that there are not many options to choose from for a pre-5/1/05 build car. I've checked out several, travelling up to 100 miles, to find that they all have the same issue mine does. The ones further out won't do any shipping on 2-piece d/s. Its just as well they won't ship since for every one I've checked out, I received a guarantee that the joints were good only to find them catching or seized when I get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Where are you? I have a 2005 LGT Manual driveshaft. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadfootny Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Ok, so after a lot of searching and scouring of junkyards, I ended up buying a remanufactured one from wholesale import parts. For $400 shipped, I received a new driveshaft with replaceable u-joints. It bolted up perfectly and most of my driveline vibs have disappeared. Through my searching, it seems that subaru made several updates to the shaft over the years. The newer ones will work on the older model. My model called for part #27111AG01A. This was superseded by part #27111AG05A, which is the same as the post-5/2005 build date. Do not waste your time looking in junkyards. Unless you find one that is a replacement, it is going to be bad. The yards by me are charging $150 and up for a used unit. It became apparent that a good one was going to be hard to find and I didn't have time to waste anymore. Additionally, part #27111AG07A is also superseded by #27111AG05A. I believe this was for certain outback models, although I am not 100% on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Ok, so after a lot of searching and scouring of junkyards, I ended up buying a remanufactured one from wholesale import parts. For $400 shipped, I received a new driveshaft with replaceable u-joints. It bolted up perfectly and most of my driveline vibs have disappeared. Through my searching, it seems that subaru made several updates to the shaft over the years. The newer ones will work on the older model. My model called for part #27111AG01A. This was superseded by part #27111AG05A, which is the same as the post-5/2005 build date. Do not waste your time looking in junkyards. Unless you find one that is a replacement, it is going to be bad. The yards by me are charging $150 and up for a used unit. It became apparent that a good one was going to be hard to find and I didn't have time to waste anymore. Additionally, part #27111AG07A is also superseded by #27111AG05A. I believe this was for certain outback models, although I am not 100% on that. So are you saying that the driveshafts are the same but just newer part numbers? Mine shit the bed yesterday and I'm in a scramble piecing it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hero2zero Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 most of my driveline vibs have disappeared. Can you please elaborate? My 05 OBXT 5MT has a vibration on hard acceleration and I think it's the driveshaft. Wondering if you had a similar problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Can you please elaborate? My 05 OBXT 5MT has a vibration on hard acceleration and I think it's the driveshaft. Wondering if you had a similar problem. For you the driveshaft from NAPA will work the post I link above. They can't get a shaft for a legacy but have them for Outbacks, at that time anyway's. The Outbacks carrier bearing is taller. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 So are you saying that the driveshafts are the same but just newer part numbers? Mine shit the bed yesterday and I'm in a scramble piecing it back together. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html there may be info in that. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/ look in there for the part number. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy25L-TURBO-5MT-4WDGT-Limited-Sedan/_54101_6028480/PROPELLER-SHAFT/B13-199-01.html Is your's 5mt or 5eat ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html there may be info in that. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/ look in there for the part number. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy25L-TURBO-5MT-4WDGT-Limited-Sedan/_54101_6028480/PROPELLER-SHAFT/B13-199-01.html Is your's 5mt or 5eat ? I wound up ordering one on ebay. My 5EAT is pre 4/30/05 so I just played it safe and bought one that was also pre 4/30/05. Was hoping I could've snagged one from an 07 local part out but no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 I wound up ordering one on ebay. My 5EAT is pre 4/30/05 so I just played it safe and bought one that was also pre 4/30/05. Was hoping I could've snagged one from an 07 local part out but no luck. I assume it fit fine ? How was the quality ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 I assume it fit fine ? How was the quality ? Just ordered it yesterday, will update once I get it and put it in. Also had to replace the shift unit, when the front u-joint snapped it bent the linkage. When it rains it pours I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Wow, bent the shifter. I think that's a first. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hey Max, quick question. When you were reinstalling your driveshaft in that 05 OBX did you have to give it a few love taps to fully seat over the splines or did it go on relatively easy? Just got it today in the mail, but it slips onto the splines just a little bit, enough to engage. I can spin the shaft and hear it spinning the transmission, but it won't push on by hand any further than that. Don't want to **** it up by getting too enthusiastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Wow, bent the shifter. I think that's a first. Yea, I'm pretty talented like that. Needed a new shift cable after the rear adjustment nut broke off too. So $150 shaft + $80 cable/bushing/nut + $50 junk yard shifter < new driveshaft from Subaru..... trying to look on the bright side here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 No, both new shaft's just slide on. The first shaft I got was for a Outback, which has the taller carrier bearing. It hit the driveshaft. The OEM one for the GT wagon slid right in with no effort too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 No, both new shaft's just slide on. The first shaft I got was for a Outback, which has the taller carrier bearing. It hit the driveshaft. The OEM one for the GT wagon slid right in with no effort too. Ah crap, guess I better slip my phone up there to snap some pics and see what's going on. Maybe count some splines too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 If it went one the splines have to be correct, could be one of them has a small burr. Yea, I really didn't notice any resistance slipping the shaft in... I did replace the nuts and lock washers at the rear U joint. But mine on the wagon have been off/on a lot more then normal. Remember, anti-seize compound on all threads. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 But if your going to spend OEM money & plan on keeping the car. This is you best option IMO, below. I have almost 245K on my drive shaft. Never had a problem or changed the U-joints. Copy/paste from other post: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ The small shaft is the OEM. The other is my new shaft. It was a little cheaper then OEM, but it 3x as strong & can be 100% rebuildable for pennys on the dollar. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070022.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070017.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070033a.jpg Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 If it went one the splines have to be correct, could be one of them has a small burr. Yea, I really didn't notice any resistance slipping the shaft in... I did replace the nuts and lock washers at the rear U joint. But mine on the wagon have been off/on a lot more then normal. Remember, anti-seize compound on all threads. Got it in, just had to spin it back and forth and wobble it a little bit and it slowly worked its way in without using a BFH. And every time I work on my car, I walk away looking like the tin man after all the anti seize I use. Gotta grab some magicical Subaru ATF and give it a drive test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LivingTheLegacy Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 But if your going to spend OEM money & plan on keeping the car. This is you best option IMO, below. I have almost 245K on my drive shaft. Never had a problem or changed the U-joints. Copy/paste from other post: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ The small shaft is the OEM. The other is my new shaft. It was a little cheaper then OEM, but it 3x as strong & can be 100% rebuildable for pennys on the dollar. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070022.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070017.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070033a.jpg Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to see if the driveshaft shop around here will swap out the u joints and carrier bearing for a reasonable price on my old shaft before I look into spending more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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