apokalypse Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Bit of background, this is my first Subaru, and first Subaru Legacy GT, so I'm pretty unfamiliar with the car and what sort of things wear out faster than others. It's a 2010, has 114,000km on it, and I don't have it on the road right now (I'm storing it until April), so I have lots of time to work on it and get it into tip top shape. I've got her sitting on jack stands in the car hole.. slowly working my way to replacing the leaky rear drive shaft seal. Had to take all of the exhaust off the hangers and drop the mufflers with it still connected, because the exhaust/muffler flanges are all rusted and the bolts would never come off otherwise. SO I'm going to replace that seal, and throw Motul Gear 300 in the rear diff and the transmission. I went through the recommended maintenance brochure so I have a few other things I want to tackle as well: spark plugs - have 4 waiting to shipreplace the cabin air filter and air filterflush the coolant and replace with superbluepower steering is a bit whiny/gets super stiff, so I have the replacement o-ring service the MAF sensorservice the throttle body The previous owner told me that the clutch was replaced around the 60k km mark, so it should be fine. For the brakes, it passed safety but I was told the pads are the original ones; I need to check them tomorrow. Is there anything else that's worth having a look at or preemptively replacing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Flush the Brake Fluid Change the rear differential fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 take a look at your serpentine belt and see if it needs replacing My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Sounds like you have most of the bases covered. This is what I would do - since it's a new to you car, I'd sort of hit the reset and change everything. -engine oil and filter -gear oil in the transmission and rear diff -brake fluid -clutch fluid -engine and cabin air filters -spark plugs while flushing the brakes, do maintenance on the calipers - pull all the slide pins, clean and relubricate them, pull the pads and check them - if they are ok, clean up the contact points on the pads and the caliper, and lubricate them (anti-seize works, but the stuff specifically for calipers is nicer to work with) look over the engine for leaks - I had the cam position sensor leak on one side (it's an o-ring seal, so I just replaced the o-ring). If you are working on the PS anyway, might as well change that fluid, too. Cleaning the throttle body can't hurt - I'd check the MAF and see if it's dirty - if it is, then hit it with a cleaner, but avoid touching the wires (not sure if you even can in the LGT - haven't pulled mine out). Lubricate everything that needs lubrication - doors, clutch slave/fork contact point, etc., clean the interior well (shampoo the carpets and floor mats, clean the leather, clean the plastic and put a protectant on everything, etc.) If the car is stage 1, you should have a tuning device of some sort - did they use a tactrix cable or accessport? If the latter, maybe check and see which map they are running, and make sure you are cool with that or see if it needs updating/changing. If you don't know, and they said it's stage 1, you need to find out what they actually did (if anything - it might have been stage 1, then they flashed it back to stock - stage 1 is generally just a reflash) For the clutch, if it was the original owner, and they replaced the first one at 60k kms, I don't know that I would assume it's fine - the "new" one would have 54k kms, so pretty close to when the last one was changed (60k kms (37k miles) is really fast to kill a clutch unless you ride it a lot) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apokalypse Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 If the car is stage 1, you should have a tuning device of some sort - did they use a tactrix cable or accessport? If the latter, maybe check and see which map they are running, and make sure you are cool with that or see if it needs updating/changing. If you don't know, and they said it's stage 1, you need to find out what they actually did (if anything - it might have been stage 1, then they flashed it back to stock - stage 1 is generally just a reflash) The car was (allegedly) tuned at a shop for stage 1, previous owner said it pushed 305/310hp and did 13.1s for a 1/4 mile. I say allegedly because I reached out to the shop owner, but he had no record of tuning based on the previous owners name, so I'm really not sure. I was going to pick up a SSM cable (I think these are the ones you need, as opposed to OBD) and freeSSM to have a look at the ECU. For the clutch, if it was the original owner, and they replaced the first one at 60k kms, I don't know that I would assume it's fine - the "new" one would have 54k kms, so pretty close to when the last one was changed (60k kms (37k miles) is really fast to kill a clutch unless you ride it a lot) The story I got was that he dropped the clutch at a track day at 8k rpm, and the car took off, and some time later the clutch gave out while he was driving to work. He said the clutch was replaced "under warranty", and the CarFax had a service record ~60k km that seems to fit the work. I haven't reached out to the dealership to see if they'd share service records, because google tells me it's an invasion of privacy and dealerships won't share records. He added that was the only time he'd taken it to the track... lesson learned I guess? So I don't think it's been beaten as bad as the first one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Depends on the dealer. Many dealers will share the service history that they have on record for a car. Worth looking into at least. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 The car was (allegedly) tuned at a shop for stage 1, previous owner said it pushed 305/310hp and did 13.1s for a 1/4 mile. I say allegedly because I reached out to the shop owner, but he had no record of tuning based on the previous owners name, so I'm really not sure. I was going to pick up a SSM cable (I think these are the ones you need, as opposed to OBD) and freeSSM to have a look at the ECU. The story I got was that he dropped the clutch at a track day at 8k rpm, and the car took off, and some time later the clutch gave out while he was driving to work. He said the clutch was replaced "under warranty", and the CarFax had a service record ~60k km that seems to fit the work. I haven't reached out to the dealership to see if they'd share service records, because google tells me it's an invasion of privacy and dealerships won't share records. He added that was the only time he'd taken it to the track... lesson learned I guess? [emoji38] So I don't think it's been beaten as bad as the first one... Our cars only Rev to 6500 ish. And 305/310 is more than stage 2 cars are putting down. So either he is full of it, or he lied about the mods. Either way I would give everything a twice over. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apokalypse Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Our cars only Rev to 6500 ish. And 305/310 is more than stage 2 cars are putting down. So either he is full of it, or he lied about the mods. Either way I would give everything a twice over. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Fair enough - I wouldn't be surprised if the story had some embellishment. He also told me a K&N air filter would add 20 hp... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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