The Big 3 Electrical Upgrade

[stevenva]

Many times people have asked me to solve their headlight dimming issues after I just installed a system. It's not always the alternator or batteries fault. The manufacturers designed your cars electrical system to provide adequate power in stock form.

After running large gauge power cable with nice clean connections, the audio system now is the most efficient pathway for power to flow. The rest of the cars electrical system suffers due to the higher resistance in the smaller gauge factory wire. The entire charging system loop must have cable of similar size to the amplifiers.

 

There are 3 cables which if installed correctly are all that is needed. The goal is to increase the cars electrical current capacity while reducing all possible resistance.

-Soldering copper lugs at the ends. Only crimping will introduce small amounts of resistance and possibly galvanic corrosion later on. A propane torch or something similar will be needed to generate enough heat. Use flux for the cleanest electrical bond.

-"Piggyback" the new cables over existing factory ones. There is no need to remove the factory stuff.

-Clean metal to metal contact. Remove any paint rust or scale so the metal shines on the cable mating surface and the lugs you just soldered on. There are usually bolts at the factory locations already. Clean any factory terminals, nuts, bolts and studs with a wire brush as well.

-Aftermarket fuse holders, battery terminals distribution blocks etc. frequently use an allen head set screw to make the connections. Flux and solder those connections. Have you ever seen a fuse holder melt? That is caused by high resistance.

 

Cable 1 will be Alternator output to Battery+

Cable 2 will be Battery- to Chassis

Cable 3 will be Chassis to Engine Block

 

I used 1/0 welders cable because I'm cheap. 7 or 8 feet should do most cars

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020090_zpsv5ohmwin.jpg

 

Alternator looks like it uses 10 gauge. I will go from here to battery positive.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/20161015_181138_zpshgj6fqib.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1010862_zpsdb7iiegc.jpg

 

Minor trimming on the bottom of the red alternator terminal boot was needed.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020073%20-%20Copy_zpswioiqzhn.jpg

Factory Positive terminal worked out fine.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020074%20-%20Copy_zpsdht9eiyp.jpg

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020080%20-%20Copy_zps2obswxlf.jpg

 

Cable 2 Battery- to chassis.

Factory battery ground is on the front of drivers side strut tower behind fusebox. It looks to be about 10 gauge.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1010860_zpsalqms3z0.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020075%20-%20Copy_zps5tfvbnzs.jpg

 

Cable 3 same chassis ground to engine block. Factory was again 10 gauge.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020072%20-%20Copy_zps21oid7yu.jpg

It's at the rear of the motor on top of the bellhousing. I sprayed the connections with some red battery terminal protector.http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020085_zpsqg45geqf.jpg

 

Some split loom on the positives and a couple zip ties. Done.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020095_zpsjmrpu9dn.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020097%20-%20Copy_zpsxd0sqzwi.jpghttp://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/P1020098%20-%20Copy_zpsetbjfr2h.jpg