gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Edit: Alternator replaced, all fixed. I've been through the various threads and videos dealing with dying turbos. I was having a bit of a rough idle, thought might be the gas. Was driving and then got a high pitch sound, sort of like electrical interference you might hear in the radio or when turning on the defroster or alterantor (which I have heard in other cars I have owned). I only drove the car about 10 min before hearing the sound, stopped, popped the hood, and couldn't hear anything, and then went back home. The rough idle stopped, the noise minimized (though usually I don't drive without the radio on) and the cars power felt great. Dont think I can get a video to capture the sound. I do plan on pulling the downpipe (for the first time) and the uppipe (need to remove heat shield and wrap). Suggest I get new gaskets for the dp/up? Anything else I should look at? Edit: Car is at 96k miles. Edit: Thinking maybe transmission or diff. I did have to add some tranny fluid, was close to the cold mark after driving a bit. Got some video here. You can hear at the 13 and 22 second marks, can hear a bit when in the car in the video, it's much louder in person. Edit: It's the alternator bearing. Easy enough fix. Just need to find one, either stock or aftermarket if recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 New gaskets will be nice. If you haven't gotten any Aero-Kroil yet, its better then PB Blaster. Cost more but works much better. Anti-seize all the threads going back together. You need to check out the shaft play, as you know. May be a boost leak, are you still with the stock tmic ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 AK and new gaskets it will be! I'll check the play and all that, last time was years ago (gulp) when I did my inlet. I put the stock IC back on after some overheating issues with the Perrin TMIC. I have the stock reinforced, the numbers all look good when I pull a LV. Though I only drove it shortly with the noise. I'll pressure test the system as well to see if I can find any leaks. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I'm addition to the penetrant, get a torch. Those turbo and exhaust studs can be incredibly seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 I'm addition to the penetrant, get a torch. Those turbo and exhaust studs can be incredibly seized. As far as I know it's never been pulled, so yeah I can see them being well seized. I'll find a propane torch of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 If you have a bad turbo, putting on a DP is the last thing you should do. Talk with your tuner about how to proceed. If it were me I'd pull the turbo right now(if I had an incline it was the turbo) and look/fix and go from there. No reason buying dp/up if you've got a turbo that'll nuke your motor once you hit it with more boost. Take a video -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Why do you think it's the turbo again? I'm not sure about the common failure modes on the VF40/46, but usually what happens is the compressor wheel starts to make contact with the housing (usually under higher pressure or load) and makes a high pitched sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 If you have a bad turbo, putting on a DP is the last thing you should do. Talk with your tuner about how to proceed. If it were me I'd pull the turbo right now(if I had an incline it was the turbo) and look/fix and go from there. No reason buying dp/up if you've got a turbo that'll nuke your motor once you hit it with more boost. Take a video -Brian I'm pulling the DP to check the turbo for play. The UP I need to remove since I have a loose heat shield, just want to wrap the pipe. Not adding any new parts Just asked if I should get new gaskets since I'm pulling both for the first time, which I figure I should. I'm at 96k miles. Don't know if I can get the sound on video, but I will try. Why do you think it's the turbo again? I'm not sure about the common failure modes on the VF40/46, but usually what happens is the compressor wheel starts to make contact with the housing (usually under higher pressure or load) and makes a high pitched sound. I have a high pitch squeal that just started, the sound is not as loud as when it first started, but only drove about 20 min total when it started making noise. Could be the wheel hitting and rounding the impeller a bit (why the sound died down a bit??). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 You might also want to check if you're hitting target boost levels. Once the wheel starts to contact the housing or the bearings start to wear out, it becomes more difficult to hit target boost. It might come later in the RPM range or it might not get there at all. Here's a video of my TD04 failing on my WRX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 You might also want to check if you're hitting target boost levels. Once the wheel starts to contact the housing or the bearings start to wear out, it becomes more difficult to hit target boost. It might come later in the RPM range or it might not get there at all. Here's a video of my TD04 failing on my WRX. Thanks, I'll check that as well. Mine doesnt quite sound like that. I'll try and get a vid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Snagged the USB cable to my Tactrix, ripped out the USB port. Hopefully the SD slot still works, just need to figure out how to set up the file correctly for logging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 I suggest you check the shaft play before you start the engine and BEFORE you drive the car in BOOST. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 Car has not been started since I came home last weekend. Pulling the DP this Saturday, should be a fun day. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 The first time is the hardest, all the next times its much easier. I can swap mine over for emissions testing in 45 minutes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Well come on over, I'll buy the beer. Plane ticket on the other hand. Let me order some gaskets as well! Edit: Gaskets in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Sorry, I'll be in VT skiing. Just think about what you have to do and have a plan. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Funny, I'll also be in VT, snowboarding. It seems daunting, but take your time and have patience with the exhaust/turbo studs and you should be fine. I might even start hitting those studs with penetrant Friday night so you can try to pull them on Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Thanks. I got it, not too worried about it. I was thinking the same with spraying everything tonight to make it easier tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Got it apart. Not bad at all, just manifold bolts rusted, just a bit of pb a few minutes and off they came. Turbo seems to be good, no play that I can feel, blades not bent. Ill put up a pic in a bit. Edit: Also got DEI titanium wrap for the up and some anti seize. Gaskets in a few days. May be time to look for a DP, valve body mod, and a new tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 You also might want to remove the rear O2 sensor while its easy and put anti-seize on the threads and put it back in...did I say, while its easy to get to. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 You might also consider some heat wrap on the DP right where the axle is to protect the DOJ/CV boots from heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Good ideas. I'm going to get this put back together soon. Will start looking at downpipes and see if I can get a VB mod. Also would like to find some high temp foam/weather stripping type material to seal up the Perrin TMIC better, rather not try and use garage door seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Did you ever figure out the noise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 I have no idea what the noise was/is at this point. Was going to put back together, take for a drive to listen and log. Can I do a vac/boost leak test with the DP, UP and Manifold off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Manifold is off, which one ? If you have enough plugs to plug all the open lines you could do a leak test. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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