Xyklok Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Hello fine folks of Legacy GT I’d want some input regarding my issues with the car and what I should do with it as I feel like I’ve just opened Pandora’s box and I wonder when things will stop. Long story short, I’ve had a lot of maintenance done on my 100k miles 2005 LGT 5MT this summer (new radiator, timing belt and water pump, brake line recall (Which took Subaru a month and a half… ), bushing tables, Oil pan, etc. Now all was good when I took back my car 3 weeks ago until the TOB started singing and simply self-destructed in my driveway a few days later. Now I had the car towed in to a reputable Subaru performance shop in my area and it was indeed the TOB that gave up. So far so good, I’m switching to a single mass flywheel WRX setup for cost and performance interest. Now the shop opted to remove the engine block completely for the job so I asked to check for the engine condition while we’re at it. Compression test done at cold (Engine hadn't run in a few days in near 0 temperature) came back all positive with results between 115 and 120 on all cylinder and no shaft play whatsoever on the turbo so good news right there! That being said, they’ve realised that I now also need a sleeve repair kit as the TOB made quite a mess in there. Now here is where the plot thickens, the shop removed the timing belt cover while they were at it to see if it was all good in there and realised my brand new timing belt (Installed by another Subaru shop this summer) was worned out like shit. They seem to point out that the cause is because it didn’t seem to be properly adjusted when installed so it was rubbing. I decided to give a call to the other Subaru shop who did the install on it to ask for their opinions and this whole story is slowly tuning into a shitstorm. They say that that shop B likes to say crap about them and and he asks for pictures (Which I provide). He finally say that he’ll take a look at it next week when he’s got time. Now at this point I’m wondering if I should just pay the shop who has the engine out already for a new belt. It would roughly take an hour and the price of the belt (So more or less 150$) and be done with it or if I should give the other shop the chance to fix the issue. What scares me with plan B (Which should be free in my opinion) is that he finds some BS reason as to why it happened and then I end up having to pay for another complete timing belt job with 4-5 hours of work and everything that comes with it. What would you do with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I can't view the pictures here at work, but, on the 5mt's if the two guide plates are not adjusted correctly, they can wear the belt. It's common knowledge that those gaps need to be .020" if I recall right. The service manual talks about it. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xyklok Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 I had a talk with the shop who did the original install and they say they'd rather work on it themselves than pay the competition to do it but he won't charge anything related to the timing belt work itself in material or time. Basically, he says in the worst case scenario, if they find something else unrelated to the belt that might have caused this and that it should have been spotted by them, they'll charge for that specific repair only but the rest of the timing belt job work will be free of charge and done by the owner of the shop himself and not an employee. He finally admited that he just wants to make sure about it himself but he says it does look like rubbing and the original diagnostic is most likely right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I would just pay the current shop. The engine is out. Do you really want to take it back and have more downtime. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Right, tell the first shop that if they are willing to stand and agree to give you break on the next job you have done there...that might be worth something. I tell people once you find a good repair shop, stick with them and tell your friends and have them use your name. Over the years the payback is priceless. I still use the same shop my dad did, I'm 62y/o, my son also uses him. Can't tell you how many times I've had small things done for free or cheap. Example, 4 wheel alignment is $40. Another time he called and said I know you like to get your own parts, but if you let me get this $19.00 part, I would charge labor to install it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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