MihaiFlorescu Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Hi Guys, Like my title says, the EJ253 engine I have in my recent buy is eating oil like crazy. 6 months ago a local dealership said they have a good Outback with minor mechanical flaws they can help me fix for 300 euros. It was a buy-back car that still had the old owner on papers. I bought the car and after one week I noticed coolant smell than saw the radiator upper crack and a head gasket blown. These were not present when I test drove the car which had been sitting for quite a while in the dealership parking. Dealership said will help me by reducing cost of labour and I had to buy the parts. Since it wasn't bought from them (on papers), they could not be taken accountant for the issue. So I bought complete engine gasket kit, new piston rings, new intake valves, new timing belt and pump, radiator, clutch kit & fork, engine mounts and a whole other bunch of parts like suspension bla bla taking the cost up to 4k. It took well over 3 months to get the parts and work done to the car. I took it and at my first inspection after a week I noticed oil around the exhaust manifold. Took it back to the dealership, waited another 1.5 months to get the engine fixed. They said it was the fault of a shop that worked on the heads and they've asked for new valve guides and seals that had been changed previously. At the end they've asked me to pay for parts and services which I refused and only paid for the valve guides. Now, two weeks later and 400km after the re-rebuild I had to top the engine with 200ml of oil. No evident leak outside the engine. And the question after the long story: WTF do I do now? New engine costs a lot and I'd hate to get one after changing so many things in this one (this one has 150.000 km). Old engine could very well take me through the same issues not long after the swap. Shoot myself? Maybe... I've sold a 2001 WRX wagon with 200.000 km on the clock original everything and has seen good track days and still runs. Big mistake selling it. But I needed a family car to take my daughter to kinder-garden which the WRX with Blitz exhaust and a lot of other mods couldn't do anymore. I thought the Outback/Legacy platform is the best thing Subaru offers. I needed this car for summer trips which I had to take in a city car and now winter holidays are coming and need the car to be working properly. Appreciate your advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 So it seems you're burning a quart approx. every 800 miles. What kind of oil are you running? As of right now, it really doesn't matter how much money you have into it if it was all for not. If they did a total rebuild, then they need to take care of it. If it was the machine shop that put the engine together, then they need to deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 I was running Liqui Moly 5w40 that was a synthetic blend the first time. Now I'm using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 since it became available in my country. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Was the PCV system ever looked into? If you have any sort of warranty, get them to take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 The PCV is my first thought too. If the PCV doesn't rattle when you shake it, its bad. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 Thanks for the quick replies. I will suggest looking at the PCV. I don't think they ever bothered given the leaking radiator and head gasket. They should repair the engine under the warranty of the first repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I was running Liqui Moly 5w40 that was a synthetic blend the first time. Now I'm using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 since it became available in my country. I'd actually would prefer the 5W40 oil over 5W30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I'd actually would prefer the 5W40 oil over 5W30. remember he has a 2.5i 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 The oil dipsticks on these cars are pretty crazy.. Are you checking the same side of the dipstick each time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 @apexi: I've owned a WRX before so I'm used to checking oil level every week. Nevertheless, dealership confirmed the oil level was low and engine was burning oil. So I've changed the PCV and appropriate rubber hose which was hard as wood. The old valve was not completely seized, but almost. It doesn't rattle if I shake it a little, but I can hear something moving in a liquid if I shake it really hard. Not sorry for the 30 bucks I've paid and a 30 min DIY job of mounting it. For sure it must have been good changing it, even though I don't feel anything different. Thanks for the advice! Right off the start, I could not tell if there is any difference either with cold or warm engine. I'll take the car out for a longer drive this week and come back with feedback about the oil level. BTW, this 08-09 EDM model that I have is the only model in the world that has a hose bypassing the PCV. It goes from the heads right under the PCV and to the intake manifold. Probably this is to avoid rise in pressure if the PCV is blocked and the reason why I had to change the intake valves is now obvious... oil vapors going directly in the intake due to PCV not working well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 So, to whom shall I start sending the beers first? I took the car out for a long drive. About 600km mixed highway and backroads. It barely moved the level. Probably 50-100ml of oil (if any) lower than before. To me it is almost too good to be true. So I will still continue to monitor the oil level, but million thanks to you guys and this community. Where do I donate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/donation-station-42.html there, or PM one of the MOD's. Glad you got it fixed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 Have sent the paypal transaction just now. Thanks! I know how much support counts and how valuable the received feedback is since I am the founder of the Subaru Club in my country. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 I have to come back with a question. All good and smooth for ~2000 miles. No noticeable oil loss on the dip stick. After another few hundred miles I checked the oil cold and it was below the minimum level. I know the stick can be misleading sometimes and took the car out for a short drive, just to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Waited for exactly 5 minutes to allow the oil to flow back into the pan, took the stick out and waited another minute for oil to come up then checked the oil. It is half way between L and F. No evident leak or anything. This is the first change of Amsoil SS 5w30 and I was anyway planning to change it this week. Could the sudden decrease in level be due to oil contamination etc.? Last hundred miles were alot done in stop&go traffic, idling for hours due to cold weather, icy rain, bad traffic, going to funerals and lots of shitty stuff. Or should I just get used to filling the 2.5i with oil more than I used to do in my 2.0 WRX with many more miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted February 21, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted February 21, 2017 I'd actually would prefer the 5W40 oil over 5W30. I'd have to agree with this. NA motor or not the synthetic oils can be like water. If it were my car, at this point I would prefer the 40 weight oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MihaiFlorescu Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Thanks! I'll use this one since I bought it and change it to a 5w40 or 0w40 grade in 3 months before the hot summer. The only W40 I have available for the moment from Amsoil is the Classic European Formula which I understand Max Capacity is also using. Might give it a try. The 5w30 was very good for the cold morning starts. -7C (20F). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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