nick12684 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 So I'll start by filling you in on the overheating incidents, so we are all on the same page. On a trip last winter, the car started to overheat after about 150 miles of highway driving. I was able to unscrew the radiator cap without any coolant coming out at me. So I filled it up, taking about a 17oz bottle of water. The reservoir was nearly empty. So I filled that up too. No problems for the rest of the trip and the return trip as well. about a month later it did it again after about 5 miles of highway driving. pulled over, checked everything. Let it cool for a bit and then continued on backroads for the 3 mile trip home, no problems. 6 and a half months later (no long trips in between. Mostly around town driving. no work commute) it began to overheat after about 20 miles (was also in traffic on a hot day) of highway driving. Cranked the heat during the traffic and had no more issues for the rest of the trip (60 miles). Had a few issues with trying to maintain a consistent temp at idle, but otherwise fine and the return 80 mile trip has no issues either. 2 days later I attempted to make the same trip I did a week before and It overheated after less than 5 miles. Limped home and has continued to be pretty consistent like this for the last week now. Today I tried diagnosing the problem and here is what I did and noticed: -Fans work and seems to be kicking on when supposed to -Did my best to burp the system. Doesn't seem to do any good -Boiled the t-stat and it's opening -Upper radiator hose hot and usually has little to no pressure -Lower radiator hose not hot/cooler than upper hose -Drained and flushed radiator. Does not seem to be blocked -The old coolant and the water I used to diag was not oily/brown -Changed the oil 2 weeks ago and was not 'milkshake' -Sometimes water bubbles/boils out from of the reservoir -The heating vents don't seem to blow hot air on full blast -Ran it with the t-stat out and the water pump does seem to be pumping water. I can see the impeller turning and it throwing water out. -Seems to be able to maintain a good temp at idle or low RPM for a good while, but revving it and high rpm seems to set off the overheating. -Tried filling the block with water via the upper radiator hose and ran it. water just glugs and chugs out hot water/steam. Not out the other way through the radiator, but pretty much back out at you. So the water does not seem to be making its way through the radiator? Other than doing things like pressure tests and leakdown tests, I really don't know what else to check/try and I'm at my wits' end. If it's a major issue, I really don't want to be throwing money at. I'd rather put it into a nicer car where I don't have to fix it and worry about it overheating when I take it somewhere. So I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions or might know what is going on before I wash my hands of it and sell it out of frustration. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve089 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Take off the hood. ROAD KILL> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I don't want to make you sound like you don't know what you're doing when I ask obvious questions because it seems like you've done everything I would have in this situation. Are you just using tap water? Or Distilled? Distilled has less impurities that would otherwise cause it to boil prematurely. We only have single core radiator and a portion of which is used up by a trans cooler so I wouldn't use just water except in an emergency. In order to limit air pockets you have to back fill the motor by installing the thermostat and lower hose first and then fill the motor through the upper radiator hose inlet. After that is done you can fill the radiator and then warm the car up while leaving the cap off and filling as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick12684 Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Brighton96, No worries, I kind of don't know what I'm doing. Hahaha. Initially it overheated with regular coolant. Then the next few times was with a slightly (tap) watered down mix. I was doing my diag (filling it up and draining it) with straight tap water yesterday. I did try filling it from the upper radiator hose with the t-stat and lower hose already connected. Seemed to make no difference. A friend I work with said that the water pump could not be pumping enough pressure, but something is throwing hot water out of the upper radiator hose. No? In thinking yesterday after I submitted this tread. Maybe the heater core is blocked. Which would explain the overheat and the no heat in cabin. The lack of water at the t-stat from the heater could cause it to not be opening properly and it can't drag the (cooler) water from the radiator back through the engine. Maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedeadhp Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I would do a leak down test, the only thing I can think of is the radiator cap, Sometimes they won't seal and will cause this. I had this happen to my gen 2 Camry once. This would explain the low pressure and the overheating when driving for awhile but still retaining some water. Another thing to do is when the car is cold start it and let it run about 5 minutes, then fill the water to the top and stick your finger in the cap hole (PAST THE LITTLE HOLE FOR THE OVERFLOW TUBE) and wait awhile then pull your finger out. If it squirts water or makes a PSHH sound then you have pressure! (This diagnostic process will take alittle while fyi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 if you are getting steam in the face when putting water directly into the top hose, you may have deeper issues than an air leak, unfortunately. take the reservoir cap off and stick your nose down there, hopefully it smells sweet like coolant and not sulfurish/ sour like exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick12684 Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 I think I found the problem everyone. Looks like the bleeder screw on the top left of the radiator near the upper radiator hose connection was leaking. loosing coolant slowly and sucking air into the radiator. It's funny how such a small simple part can cause so much trouble. Now I try to figure out where I can get a new bleeder screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 I think I found the problem everyone. Looks like the bleeder screw on the top left of the radiator near the upper radiator hose connection was leaking. loosing coolant slowly and sucking air into the radiator. It's funny how such a small simple part can cause so much trouble. Now I try to figure out where I can get a new bleeder screw. I'm going to my treasure trove junkyard tomorrow, I'll see if I can get you one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick12684 Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 I'm thinking maybe i should try to track down a metal replacement instead. This plastic one is absolute junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 I'm thinking maybe i should try to track down a metal replacement instead. This plastic one is absolute junk. All you'd have to do it find the thread of it to find a metal replacement. I don't know what's near you but Tractor Supply always has a good selection of hardware and if you are around VA then TWPerry has an amazing selection of hardware but they are a small chain so I doubt you have one local. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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