NickB34 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 This is on the passenger side, right next to the oil filter... it's been doing this of awhile and I think it is getting worse, but hard to tell. It's not enough to notice a decrease on the dipstick and it's not regularly dripping on my garage floor. I smell the burnt oil occasionally (like when somebody does a sloppy oil change). I'm thinking the only thing it could be that is in that location would be the rocker cover seal or plug seals, but I can't actually see the source. Does anybody have a better idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelbuilder_25 Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 No better idea, but it could also be the head gasket leaking oil. I have a bit of 'seeping' going on there on my 09 iSE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 I think I'm going to do the rocker cover seals and then change to a high mileage oil to see if that fixes it. I'll be doing all of this at the same time as I do my timing belt, so maybe I'll be able to see better when I've got some things apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Try the valve cover seals first and make sure to wipe things clean afterwards. If after the seals you still have issue its your Headgasket I made this to help: If it were your valve cover gasket you would see oil (thick and sticky) along the edge of the head. The leak in your photo is right on the primary runner the best way to check is get under the car and use a light and mirror on a stick to inspect the HG area or drop the manifold altogether. I hope it isnt worse my 0 2.5i has been weeping but not dripping for 70K miles I will do the HGs around 200K mile mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 Try the valve cover seals first and make sure to wipe things clean afterwards. If after the seals you still have issue its your Headgasket I made this to help: [ATTACH]235011[/ATTACH] If it were your valve cover gasket you would see oil (thick and sticky) along the edge of the head. The leak in your photo is right on the primary runner the best way to check is get under the car and use a light and mirror on a stick to inspect the HG area or drop the manifold altogether. I hope it isnt worse my 0 2.5i has been weeping but not dripping for 70K miles I will do the HGs around 200K mile mark Thanks for the photo edit. I'll do a deeper inspection next time I'm under there. Head gasket replacement sounds like a job I don't want to do as well as one that I probably don't want to pay for. Unfortunately I haven't even cracked the 100k mark, so it's kind of sad that I may have to do some major work. I'll try the simple things first and then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R15 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Thanks for the photo edit. I'll do a deeper inspection next time I'm under there. Head gasket replacement sounds like a job I don't want to do as well as one that I probably don't want to pay for. Unfortunately I haven't even cracked the 100k mark, so it's kind of sad that I may have to do some major work. I'll try the simple things first and then go from there. GEE OTTO is spot on and you can skip the valve cover gaskets, it's the head gasket. The plus side is if you haven't noticed coolant consumption or overheated it's probably just and external leak and shouldnt require a machine shop. The negative side is yes, most people that aren't sure if they can/should do head gaskets probably shouldn't. Honestly there's nothing particularly difficult about it on these boxer engines but it's a big job and you're gonna need tools you probably don't have and it's going to take you a long time. Be prepared. This would be a $3k job to "do right" at my shop but im a dealer tech, you can probably get it done with t belt and water pump for a grand if you shop it around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 If it's right next to the oil filter it could be the cooler seal where the filter screws onto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 GEE OTTO is spot on and you can skip the valve cover gaskets, it's the head gasket. The plus side is if you haven't noticed coolant consumption or overheated it's probably just and external leak and shouldnt require a machine shop. The negative side is yes, most people that aren't sure if they can/should do head gaskets probably shouldn't. Honestly there's nothing particularly difficult about it on these boxer engines but it's a big job and you're gonna need tools you probably don't have and it's going to take you a long time. Be prepared. This would be a $3k job to "do right" at my shop but im a dealer tech, you can probably get it done with t belt and water pump for a grand if you shop it around. How concerned should I be about getting the work done? Sounds like it's something that can wait awhile and should be monitored consistently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 If it's right next to the oil filter it could be the cooler seal where the filter screws onto. Non-Turbo we dont have oil coolers (althought we wish we did ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 How concerned should I be about getting the work done? Sounds like it's something that can wait awhile and should be monitored consistently. Like mentioned above you proper job runs around $3K-$3.5K which includes labor and parts. Also a proper job involves inspecting the head(s) and adjusting clearances for any material removed for future wear (clearances to compensate for valve wear) and replacing those little rubber bits (hoses and gaskets etc). My 08 has a very very slight weep for the past 100K miles and I plan to change the HGs preemptively as im now at 170K miles. As long as you dont have milkshake oil or coolant your costs could/can be lower BUT some shops will always mill the heads and use a turbo gasket (thicker) as part of the repair. I agree with you however the car is maybe worth $6K and you may need to spend half that to repair it so if you do, do it right and at least be able to drive the car for many more thousands of miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 This would be a $3k job to "do right" at my shop but im a dealer tech, you can probably get it done with t belt and water pump for a grand if you shop it around. $3k to do a HG change on a 2.5i? That's like rebuilding half the motor. On a 2.5i motor most shops should be able to change it along with a new T belt for $1k or less. And why is everyone so concerned on changing the water pump? I know everyone is thinking about premeasures, but the water pumps on these cars rarely go out. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Non-Turbo we dont have oil coolers (althought we wish we did ) The oil cooler is the housing where the oil filter screws on. Totally different than a trans cooler or power steering cooler like you may be referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 The oil cooler is the housing where the oil filter screws on. Totally different than a trans cooler or power steering cooler like you may be referring to. Ive not referred to anything but the oil filter we dont have a oil cooler like the 255. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 $3k to do a HG change on a 2.5i? That's like rebuilding half the motor. On a 2.5i motor most shops should be able to change it along with a new T belt for $1k or less. And why is everyone so concerned on changing the water pump? I know everyone is thinking about premeasures, but the water pumps on these cars rarely go out. The owner will find out the price soon enough While the parts are cheap the labor and outsourcing the head for machining inflate the price. I was quoted $3100 flat rate price which included new seals and adjustments for both heads, all the vacuum lines replaced, valve cover gaskets, new coolant, radiator hoses, timing belt, HGs, clutch and PP and temp sensor. If I had a failure under 100K I would skip all that minus the timing belt and have them replace the HGs only with no machine work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Ive not referred to anything but the oil filter we dont have a oil cooler like the 255. its true for you 253 people, there is no oil cooler but older and N/a subarus used to have them. its more of the first gen foresters and early 25D's. late 90's possible early 2000 but more a late 90's thing. meaning you can add one if you wanted to. possibly just a thermostat housing addition or a water pump from that year or a oil cooler and/or thermostat housing and water pump from recent turbo models... some thing that came to my mind reading this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 If I had a failure under 100K I would skip all that minus the timing belt and have them replace the HGs only with no machine work. I was already planning to do the timing belt work myself, but if I need to get the head gaskets done then I will just have them do the timing belt at the same time. Is it right to assume that the HGs involve removing the engine?? And since only one side is weeping, should that be the only one that is replaced, or would they just want to do both of them? I'm getting to the point where I need a clutch as well, do you think combining this would save on some labor or would they just try and make it up somewhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I was already planning to do the timing belt work myself, but if I need to get the head gaskets done then I will just have them do the timing belt at the same time. Is it right to assume that the HGs involve removing the engine?? And since only one side is weeping, should that be the only one that is replaced, or would they just want to do both of them? I'm getting to the point where I need a clutch as well, do you think combining this would save on some labor or would they just try and make it up somewhere else? You are correct. My local Subaru shop (MachV) charged no additional labor for the clutch and FW replacement as long as I supplied the parts. Since the engine was coming out anyway to do both HGs. You may as well replace both HGs as it cost the same labor essentially to do one and have them simply reinstall a new belt during reassembly. The water pump you can skip until the next time the timing belt is needed so buy the kit without the pump. Also while you have it out spend $9.00 and buy a new rear main seal from Subaru, takes about 5 mins to replace once the Flywheel is off and prevents that annoying rear engine oil seepage. My parts list was: OEM from Subaru Dealer -Turbo HGs (they work better given the slight milling/removal of material) -Rear main seal -Valve cover gasket kit -Thermostat (optional) Aftermarket -Exedy KSBO4 clutch kit -Exedy FWSBL02FF Flywheel -Dayco Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses -Peak Global 50/50 coolant (mine needed changing) You could go with the Sachs Clutch and FW to save $$$ it wouldnt hurt performance or durability and if you dont need a FW you could only replace the clutch. Same for the coolant system items Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Amazon tells me that flywheel doesn't fit my car, I can't seem to confirm it on any other sites either. RockAuto says it is good for 07-09 Legacy, seems kind of weird that the 06 isn't on there. Any thoughts on: ACT 600705 XACT Streetlite Flywheel ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 06+ WRX 5mt Flywheel is the same for 06-09 LGT and 2.5i 5MT https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-lightweight-flywheel/ff02/i-34613.aspx You could always get the Sachs FW they are Subaru OEM and cheap! Skip the ACT FW esp if paired with a stock clutch and for that matter try not to mix Clutch and FW brands. Sachs or Exedy is your best bet. I run the Exedy setup never an issue but I had the Sachs setup from the factory. I have 130K miles on my Exedy clutch pack and FW and it just started to smell on those long high speed climbs on the interstate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Took it to a local reputable shop. The guy who owns the shop took a look at it and he's not concerned with the extremely minor leak from the head gasket. Told me to just keep an eye on it. He was far more concerned with the oil pan gasket leak that I have. Told me it should probably be replaced next time I'm ready for an oil change. I looked in the service manual... what a bitch it is to change the oil pan gasket! Need to jack the engine up. The shop quote was $350 and from what I can tell, that's pretty much all labor minus $20 or so for some high temp liquid gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 That is what the boxer engines use for gaskets on the oil pan and a couple other places, it is a special sealant I am surprised yours is leaking since it doesn't seem to be very common. Unless the oil pan has taken a hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 That is what the boxer engines use for gaskets on the oil pan and a couple other places, it is a special sealant I am surprised yours is leaking since it doesn't seem to be very common. Unless the oil pan has taken a hit. Definitely no hits, but it has been covered with a thin layer of oil every time I've done an oil change in the last couple of years. Far longer than the little issue with oil dripping on the header. I've never been too concerned since it has never dripped on the garage floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Definitely no hits, but it has been covered with a thin layer of oil every time I've done an oil change in the last couple of years. Far longer than the little issue with oil dripping on the header. I've never been too concerned since it has never dripped on the garage floor. You could DIY but if you havent raised the engine or have the will to get those 4 bolts along the backside out $350 isnt terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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