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advantages of synthetic oil?


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what are the advantages of using synthetic oil? i'm getting my first oil change (literally first oil change in my life) and i was hoping for some guidance. Suggestions? Also, if I were to use synthetic, would i have to buy it myself and bring it in to the dealership? Or could i just tell them i want synthetic and they'll find it for me. How closely or loosely should i follow the 3500 mile oil change rule? I drive around 80% highways.
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synthetic is slipperyer than regular oil. It handles heat better and is more resistant to cooking. It lasts longer and works better on cold starts.

 

try to stick to the 3500 as close as you can, a couple hundred miles won't hurt anything. I've gone over 1000 past due plenty of times.

 

 

Stick with regular oil till at least 1000miles onthe car. The dealer may or may not have synthetic. Call ahead and ask.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I was considering going to synthetic as well and I decided against it. The reason most go to synthetic is to keep parts well lubricated under high stress. Since I'm stock and I'm only at 8k miles (you should really wait until 10k+) I figured I would wait until there was a good reason instead of just doing it for the hell of it. If you don't have the proper breakin and sealing regular oil, you'll lose a lot of oil when switching. I'd say switch when you have a reason, because 5W-30 should be more than good unless you plan on running it hard all the time.
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No arguement on the merits of synthetic oil (I use it myself because I choose to). It can/ will increase your OCI, but driving habits/conditions should factor into that equation, as well whether or not synthetic is necessary in the first place.
:orly:YA RLY!!! Home of +2500 useless posts!!!!
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Why do they recommend that you wait for x number of miles before the switch to synthetic? I went to it right away for the 1'st change since break-in.. seems to be fine

 

+1 to Mwiener2

 

Also, since the synthetic molecules are all the same size, they don't fill in those irregularly shapped areas well. That's why they never start an engine on synthetic. You'll definitely start getting leaks if you do. A good break-in will keep you happy though.

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My Legacy is the third car I've owned from new, and switched to synthetic Mobil 1 somewhere between 500 and 1000 miles on the clock. None burn oil or are the worse for wear. All were broken in with reasonable care and avoiding prolonged cruising at any given speed. If Porsches and Corvettes come from the factory with a synthetic fill, they aren't worried about switching too soon.
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So why do most manufacturer's recommend not using synthetic in the beginning? They don't like the prolonged break-in period, right?

 

 

???? Name one....

 

That's an old mechanic's tale (OMT), as is the story about synthetic being "slipperier". There are a number of mfrs using synthetic as a factory fill. That old story about waiting until "X" number of miles for a break-in is another OMT.

 

The key reason for synthetic is for it's resistance to heat and it won't break down as quickly, which is imprtant for turbos. FWIW, I stay with dino oil on n/a engines, but I went to synthetic in the LGT at the first change at 1,700 miles, now I go 7,000 between changes.

 

It's another OMT about getting more leaks with synthetic. the original synthetics did not have the seal "swellers" that dino oil had, and cars leaked. That has long since been corrected. Synthetic meets all standards for the mfrs, as does dino oil. It performs the same, with the exception of the resistance to premature breakdown.

Ron
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More oil info (and BS) than anyone possibly can use at http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi rporter offers good info above. LOADS of OMT's/urban legends re:synthetic oil. Basically, synth is more resistant to heat/breakdown, and will likely keep your engine cleaner longer when using extended OCI's (> 5000 miles). Modern dino oils are plenty good enough for any NA engine IMO, turbocharged engines warrant the benefits of synth IMO, but even in a TC engine, a good dino will probably suffice using a 3k OCI.

 

NA - normally aspirated

OCI - Oil change interval

TC - turbocharged

 

My experience with synth: Switched to M1 at 6k (5w30), and have slight consumption issue on long trips (no consumption on daily driving), tried M1 0w40 for 3700 mi. trip to NM and back to WA still used about 1 qt. Which really isn't bad, though I'm gonna try either Penzoil Platinum or Castrol Syntec on my next change to see if the consumption issues go away.

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???? Name one....

 

Subaru, that's one.

 

I'm not dissing synthetic, because it is the shiz. I'm switching next oil change. But the point I am making is why don't all manufacturers sell high performance cars with synthetic? Is it cost (save a few bucks) or is it break-in releated?

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Subaru, that's one.

 

I'm not dissing synthetic, because it is the shiz. I'm switching next oil change. But the point I am making is why don't all manufacturers sell high performance cars with synthetic? Is it cost (save a few bucks) or is it break-in releated?

 

Subaru?? I think not. There is no mention of synthetic, or any type of oil, in the owners manual (pages 11-15 through 11-18), only to make sure to get oil with the proper viscosity and API certification. Nothing in the break-in section, either (page 8-2).

 

Purely cost-related. Cars that come with synthetic are in the upper ends of their price range. Plus, they are cars that are marketed as high-performance to owners that will be more particular about maintenance.

 

The LGT is not marketed as a performance vehicle, and it is in a price-competitve market category. When mfrs look to save pennies per car, the few extra $$$ for synthetic are a lot of money. Plus, people will bitch about the cost for oil changes. I know of a few enthusiast folks who decided to pass on the LGT because it specifies 91+ octane fuel.

 

Again, synthetic is not more slippery, and is not a problem for break-in. Sure, there are a lot of mechanics and even engine builders that still believe in this OMT, but then, they usually also believe that synthetic leaks more. As enthusiasts who should know better, we need to debunk these OMTs.

Ron
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Cars that come with synthetic also usually have really long service intervals. Like audi. First service is 15000

 

Same with 911 Porsches.

 

But, some mfrs also don't specify service until the light comes on. BMWs and the Mini Coopers have this, and they generally have dino oil. I recall the long-term Mini Cooper test that either AutoWeek or C&D did. The light didn't come on for an oil change until 12K miles.

 

There has been a number of articles written stating that regular dino oil can easily go a lot of miles. Just about every mfr that uses dino oil has 7,500-mile intervals (like Subaru). I stay with sub-7,500-mile changes with synthetic just to keep within Subaru's service interval.

Ron
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I thought the main benefit of synthetic oil was that it allowed for longer OCIs without negative effects.

 

If you are to change oil every 3,000-3,500 miles, does it really matter whether you use synthetic or blend (which is what dealers typically use)? Doesn't it seem like an overkill?

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I found it interesting to read this from the royal purple website. I wonder why they put 'minimum' in the wording.

 

"Royal Purple's motor oils are API certified and will not void new car warranties. Royal Purple® recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines before using Royal Purple®. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before use in diesel engines."

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That wording as probably been on there since Day 1 when they produced the stuff. With probably a hundred or more car mfrs out there, with all different types and levels of engines that they can't control, it's conservative legalese language (like Suarus break-in process).
Ron
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