tickles Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Recently purchased 05 wagon, blew turbo somewhere bringing it from CO to IN. Burned 3qts of oil along the way. Compression and leakdown came back fine, but turbo is done. After searching this site and all the available manufacturers, I am a little overwhelmed with trying to find a rebuilt/less expensive vf40. OEM and replacement is going to run $2200 ($1770 for turbo, rest is labor etc), and I am fine going the less expensive route, but need my hand held a little. Who are the trusted vendors for these turbos, or is there another model that can be used direct bolt on? I am moving in 1 week as well, which throws this issue into an emergency situation, as I need the part ASAP. Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 I would suggest taking it back to the person you bought it from... JMP is usually the go to guy on here for a replacement turbo. The cheapest option would be to find a used turbo from someone that upgraded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Recently purchased 05 wagon, blew turbo somewhere bringing it from CO to IN. Burned 3qts of oil along the way. Compression and leakdown came back fine, but turbo is done. After searching this site and all the available manufacturers, I am a little overwhelmed with trying to find a rebuilt/less expensive vf40. OEM and replacement is going to run $2200 ($1770 for turbo, rest is labor etc), and I am fine going the less expensive route, but need my hand held a little. Who are the trusted vendors for these turbos, or is there another model that can be used direct bolt on? I am moving in 1 week as well, which throws this issue into an emergency situation, as I need the part ASAP. Thanks for the help OP read this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html Typically you can't just throw a new turbo on and call it good. When these turbos go, they frequently take out the entire engine ($6k+) Check your oil for metal flakes, if they are any, chances are your engine is destroyed. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Thanks, I may just be bad luck as it passed the PPI with my mechanic. Previous owner is MIA, not much I can do on that end. I have checked out all the many, many threads and know more know than before. Mechanic who has it now has not talked about engine damage, but maybe they didn't even look. In any event, I posted here because of the short amount of time available and numerous rabbit hole threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoXCivic Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 You can often find used turbos in decent condition on ebay. People like to upgrade fromthe VF40 to something bigger so some of them might be dumping perfectly good turbos as they no longer have a use for them.You might look into finding one and buying a rebuild kit and either doing it yourself or having your mechanic do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 If you can wait I have a VF40 coming off my car next week. If you need something NOW check with JPM if he has something. If not the JM (NOT JPM) turbos on eBay/Amazon are serviceable. If you're willing to do a tuned solution the BNR 16g is pretty good, but you'll need an openport or accessport and etune. Also check the stickylegacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtonstilts Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 You can pic up an aftermarket turbo and have it tuned for less than what your willing to spend on a vf40 Also dont even think about doing a new turbo without at the very least droping the pan and cleaning the engine thoroughly, as well as removing the oil screens in the oil feed lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Appreciate all the advice! Mechanic sees nothing wrong with the oil, believes the engine to be safe and will do the complete flush with the new turbo install. The cost is not something I like, especially since there are better options/upgrades available, but I am short on time with moving next week. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Updating to sing the praises of JMP. He was out of town until later in the weekend and is still making it a priority to help get me back on the road given a very tight timeline. Professional and polite throughout. Incredibly open and responsive given his other responsibilities. Fingers crossed that the motor is fine. Only wish I could have had UP, DP, and cobb done in the same time frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 You should at least do the up pipe while the turbo is out. It will save a lot of labor cost later on. Also get a new oil return hose. Think about bolting the turbo to the up pie, it makes it much easier to line everything while installing it. Also leave turbo loose on up pipe until the tmic is lined up and tighten on the TB hose and turbo outlet. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Updating to sing the praises of JMP. He was out of town until later in the weekend and is still making it a priority to help get me back on the road given a very tight timeline. Professional and polite throughout. Incredibly open and responsive given his other responsibilities. Fingers crossed that the motor is fine. Only wish I could have had UP, DP, and cobb done in the same time frame. Gut the front cat if the turbo is still off. You can change the downpipe yourself later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Update: JMP rebuilt vf40 installed along with new cat, engine flush, replace oil lines, 2 oil changes. Drove about 600 miles and turbo is no longer producing power, heavy blue smoke on boost and at start. Compression test comes back 125, 110, 110, 125. Previous mechanics see no issues with those numbers on a 125k car, but current subaru shop wants to do a fresh rebuild with turbo for 6k. The joys of my first month with a legacy gt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Maybe I missed it, and i'm sure John advised you to, but did you check and take out the banjo screen on that turbo oil feed? I also wonder if the original owner replaced the turbo then sold it to you - that seems to happen a lot with these cars I feel. Either way it sucks. I was in a similar position to you, although my turbo was fine, definately a tough decision to pour 6k (9 for me) into a ten year old car. 2 things made me go through with a rebuid: 1 - I looked around and for the money there is absolutely nothing else I wanted to drive. All used vehicles have issues, mine had a big issue but I know my car inside out and luckily replacing these engines is more simple and cheap than most. 2. I like you have a Wagon with a 5mt. Good luck whatever you decide, it totally sucks being in your position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Yea, they checked those filters, and per his instructions they should have removed them during install of his unit. If they did actually replace them, would that cause a failure so early in the life on the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 If they did actually replace them, would that cause a failure so early in the life on the turbo? If there is still crap floating around your oil system from when the last one blew, yep. Though that same stuff could kill the turbo regardless. Compression numbers aren't too crazy off, do a leakdown if you're concerned. Did they replace your oil cooler with the last turbo? The stick on turbo failures has a great guide of everything to make sure to do while fixing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 6k with a turbo is not a bad deal. read my click here to see how to do it right. You want ej257 short block with new oil cooler and oil pump. I didn't replace my oil cooler because I knew the history of my car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 If there is still crap floating around your oil system from when the last one blew, yep. Though that same stuff could kill the turbo regardless. Compression numbers aren't too crazy off, do a leakdown if you're concerned. Did they replace your oil cooler with the last turbo? The stick on turbo failures has a great guide of everything to make sure to do while fixing it. I followed those reco's as best as possible, especially given that no shavings were found on the dip and no visible sheen in the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tickles Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 At any rate, metal found in the oil, oil in the intercooler, need a new engine is the botrom line. What is the going rate for a blown car? How about longblocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Subaru dosent sell longblocks, you'd be looking used if your heads are shot. Check ebay, add ~$1k in labor. '04-'06ish STI's are the same longblock if you need to expand your search, but will require more labor for the intake swap. If you can get by with a shortblock it's about $4.5K if you find the right shop (currently doing that due to headgasket/oil consumption). You'll need to add a turbo to that of course. If cutting your losses, I've seen ~$1.5K as the going rate for one with a blown motor/turbo. Maybe a little more as a 5MT wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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