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CovertRussian's 2000 Infiniti G20 - SR20DE+T & 6 Speed

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If I'm not updating my Legacy or Outback build threads, it's usually because I'm busy with this car.


This car is mainly my autocross car, but I've bee driving it daily for the last couple weeks and modifying/testing suspension parts :).



What she looked like when I bought her:




What she looks like now:






Of course the money shot



The tiny mod list...


SR20DE Roller Rocker

Lowport Intake Manifold

SR20VE Valve Springs (7.5-8k Redline)

STI 520cc Injectors

UR Water Pump Pulley


Walbro 255lph

Z32 Fuel Filter

Silla Radiator




T25 Manifold - Ported

T25 J-Pipe - Ported

3" SS Downpipe

Universal Aluminum Piping Kit

Precision 350hp Intercooler



3" VRS Exhaust with 3" STI Muffler

Borla XR-1 40085 Resonator


Engine Management

NismoTronic NEMU & TunerCode



2003 Spec V 6 Speed Swap

JWT 250mm Flywheel

350z Exedy Stg1 Clutch




Fortune Auto 500 Gen 5 - 8k Front / 10k Rear

Cusco P10 Front Strut Bar

Octotat Rear Strut Bar

Addco Maxima Rear Swaybar

Upper Control Arms - Cusco -10mm (-1* Static Camber)

Anti-Lift Kit - Custom 9.5mm

LCA Rewarward Caster Bushing: SuperPro SPF3447K

Rear Beam Arm Bushings - ES 7.3113

Steel Braided HP PowerSteering Line

Outer Tie Rod Ends: L31 Altima


Wheel & Tires

Wheels: Velox Apex 17x7.5

Tires: Cooper RS3-S 225/45/17



2002 Sport Grille

Front Bumper Mouth

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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Oh man....I had a '94 G20 that I should not have gotten rid of. That was a great little car. Even bone stock it was pretty fun to drive.


Subbing for a cool build.


Out of the box P10's (91-96), handle so much better then P11's (99-02). Not only where they lighter (100-300lbs depending on the year), they also have IRS.


Nissan was in the middle of going bankrupt when they were building P11's so they went really cheap with rear beams. Nissan did everything in the book to make the beam cars not rotate, like 1/4" to 1/8" rear toe in, very squishy bushings, 12" or so rear roll center that overloads the front tires.


I've been fighting with making this handle good for years, once I bought the LGT, I no longer cared about keeping it as comfortable so now with coilovers and other goodies she's finally coming around.


I actually Autocrossed with Impulse the other month, was only 1-2 seconds behind him! :lol: Though to be fair he had pretty bald tires. Still getting a turbo FWD family sedan to be fast in autocross a challenge :lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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I remember the struts were going out and I wasn't really loving the ride. I was also broke so I had to go with something lame like Monroe struts. Even with those, the car went back to cornering like it was on rails.


And yes, I looked on Craigslist yesterday. The P10s are CHEAP...

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been so busy with the house haven't been able to update this thread much at all!


I did get to weight the car last week at the scrap metal place, 3,100lbs without me. Guess the suspension/wheels and turbo parts really did add another 150lbs over stock. :lol:


I remember the struts were going out and I wasn't really loving the ride. I was also broke so I had to go with something lame like Monroe struts. Even with those, the car went back to cornering like it was on rails.


And yes, I looked on Craigslist yesterday. The P10s are CHEAP...


I wish I could say the same about the P11's, they are heavier and the rear beam just makes it handle like crap. I'm getting closer to making it handle like a good racecar should though!


If I didn't have so much vetted in the P11 I would just switch to a P11, heck I'm even considering a rear IRS swap :lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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  • 1 month later...

I need to get some more build pics posted up, been too busy on the Legacy :).


sweet ride and solid build! You run it in SM?


Thanks! Yup I run in SMF (Thankfully they created FWD class!). I still get my butt owned by slower cars that are way smaller and lighter though. Car with Terminal Understeer + Rear beam + 3k lbs car = hard to be fast on nimble auto-x courses.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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  • 6 months later...

I've been bad about giving this thread some love. Lets start with engine prepping for turbo. This motor came with the car, I then swapped in an SR20VE (Nissan's VTEC motor) and turbo charged it.


SR20DE's were originally designed as turbo charged motors thus even the NA models are very turbo friendly, but SR20VE was actually designed as an NA motor, huge intake ports, high overlap cam, lighter valves, crank, higher piston rings, etc. High overlap cams didn't like smaller T2 turbos, or log manifolds even with a T3 turbo. I actually bought and ran OEM turbo SR20VE cams, but I simply got tired of throwing money at that motor to make less then 250whp (FWD can't hook it anyway).


Plus I expected much better MPG's from the variable valve lift motor, instead I got about the same that I got before on the stock block. With all that combined I decided to KISS and just go back to the stock block and turbo it. Remember how I said SR20DE was built as turbo motors originally?


Well the Roller Rocker (RR) was actually redesigned to be more emission friendly in 2000. Sure it was given much more efficient roller rockers, but it was also given a 4 cw crank, lighter valves, higher piston rings (that don't tolerate detonation), and a bunch of other little things, thus this motor is regarded as the least turbo friendly SR20 engine. But Nissan did leave the low overlap (~8*) cams, which makes it small turbo friendly!


Prepping for Turbo

This thing sat for about two years.



Stripped it down a good bit



Getting ready to engine stand it



To properly tap the block for oil return upper oil pan needs to be removed




Nissan left the mold with a spot for turbo drain even for NA motors.



Drilled out and ready to start tapping.



First used the medium sized breaker bar, but it was getting to the point where it was hard to keep on tapping.






All done



Engine Cleaning

As you may have noticed the block is not clean. The valve cover was leaking badly.



Bunch of carb/break parts cleaner cans later...




I like the old style oil filter location, thus I try to use it on all of my motors. In this case oil filter housing wouldn't let the intake manifold get in, thus had to cut the bolt shorter



RR EGR pipe is too long and restricts flow, thus I pulled it out.




Getting ready to put in the RR




Needed a new VC seal, motor looks pretty good for 100k miles.



All put together



If you noticed the odd hose, well that's my manual IACV since RR manifold doesn't support old styled IACV's.


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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Roller Rocker's IACV lives on the throttle body, while every single other SR20 has it on the manifold. The plan has always been to run a low port manifold on the roller rocker, it only makes sense to run it when you switch to a 16 bit ecu that has a different IACV system.


I think Nissan designed the roller rocker manifold horribly on purpose, they saw what a great motor the RR is and how much more power it makes then regular low ports and they had to detune it. At first I thought Roller Rocker manifold was really designed for low end torque, that's why they suck for power getting, but after doing these tests I'm convinced Nissan just wanted to screw us.


Stock Roller Rocker manifold



It is good for having secondary runners being very smooth, it's actually semi polished, which is impressive compared to any other SR20 manifold's I've seen, which all have horrible casting marks.




Low Port manifold on the other hand has a much bigger plenum that can house a bunch of air.



It also has smoother runners that are slightly longer with less bends. (Do you spy some yellow LGT/STI injectors?)




On the same exact tune I made 10 more wheel horsepower! Also as you may have noticed my power went down, this could be because of stiffer VE valve springs, or because of hot December day, Virtual Dyno does have temperature and pressure corrections which I utilized, thus it's hard to say what could have dragged the power down a bit.



The car feels a lot beastlier now, I was actually quite impressed by the felt torque while doing some runs tonight!



Installation Pics


This manifold is a direct bolt on for the most part. There are a few mods that do need to be done in order to run it on the stock RR. First difference is the water temp housing, which I hate for being on the manifold warming up the air!



Low Port:



As expected the water pipes wont line up easily.



Gotta pull it out and cut it to fit



Measure once cut twice... Since I did the cut very close to the bend I used a socket to round it out.



Installed, and now I can use the low port water hose, which for your reference is 1".



I dislike the aux air regulator, it keeps your cold idle at 1500 rpm for 60-90 seconds. None of my cars have it, and they don't have any issues in the winter. Blocking it with a big bolt that I cut down.



Water temp sensor and water temp gauge wires need to be extended out to reach the new location



Got the injectors all wired up



Installed an EGR block off plate



Extended the IACV wires from the throttle body to the other end of the plenum



LP manifold sits too close to the taller RR VC's, thus clearance can be tough. The throttle screw doesn't touch it, but to be safe extended it out with a Thermoblok spacer



Not much better, but now dust shouldn't cause any issues!



Low port has shorter throttle cables too, thus mounting them will require some work (had to drill the bracket in new spots). PCV Valve doesn't have much clearance either.



Fired her up and listened to her purr and smoke


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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USDM Roller Rockers come with a very unSR20 redline of a whipping 6700 rpm. I have to shift twice before even getting to 55mph with that redline! :cry:


Luckily a friend chimed in and mentioned that he used to use VE valve springs on his Roller Rocker and that raised the redline to 7800-8000 rpm. This is excellent because JWT is the only one that makes stiffer springs for us, they are very expensive and are out of stock until further notice. You can get a VE valve spring and retainer set for about $50. I personally stole the needed parts from my old VE.


VE Parts Needed:

- VE Dual Valve Springs

- VE Retainers

- VE Inner valve spring seats



Removed the cams and all of that good stuff



Notice the Valve shim and rocker guide locations, this is important to remember!



Pulle the shims and guides out, make sure to keep them separated, otherwise you will have to reshim the head.



Using a valve spring tool I compressed the spring and took out the keepers



While I was at it I figured it would be a perfect time to change the valve stem seals. Gotta be very careful when using anything but a proper tool to remove old valve stem seals! If you scratch the valve it will cut the seal and leak. Get a proper tool if you can, I couldn't get one locally and didn't have time to order it.



I had a Supertech kit that I bought for the VE, but since I decided to pull the VE before I got around to replacing the seals, I had these handy. Supertech exhaust seals on left oem used ones on right.







VE Valve spring seats:



When you compare it to the roller rocker one, roller rocker bigger valve spring seat has a bigger inner circle. The difference was significant enough for me not to be able to use VE valve seats on RR head.




The inner valve seats aren't really meant to be used on the RR, VE has the head machined to fit them, on the RR they wont sit right at first.



Once you insert the bigger valve spring it should align the inner seat.



Now is the time to put in the inner springs, make sure the painted surface faces down.



Installing the retainers with the valve keepers is where I had the most pain. My shoulders are still sour from keeping the valve springs compressed and trying to install the keepers.



Something to worry about on the exhaust side, there are oil drain passages. I lost a valve keeper into one of those, hence I started putting a magnet into the hole just in case. Still trying to fish out the valve keeper. Sadly no one locally had a magnetic drain plug for our M12x1.25 drain plugs.



Intake side was a lot more painful then the exhaust side, intake side required me to push up instead of push down. Luckily valve spring tool had a spot where I could add a wrench into for better leverage.



All done, finally! This probably was one of the more nerve wracking tasks I've done on the car. What's worse is, I couldn't use the compressor to pressurize the cylinders (it spun the crank). Thus I used TDC per cylinder to stop the valves from falling, that means I had to rotate the crank while the cams where off.



You can see the smaller spring hiding in there



For those that are curious here are some closeup shots of the roller rocker.



I thought I would measure the valve springs to make sure they were still within spec. I'm surprised that the RR ones with 100k miles still are within perfect spec.



VE one is too, granted I measured it at a bigger side, at the smallest side it was at 47.x mm too.



VE Inner spring



So far I've taken her up to 7500 rpm and regular dyno oil and she seems to be kicking fine. I just changed the oil to some 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic, will have some virtual dyno's soon.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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VRS Piping kit:



The kit works pretty well except for one bend that made the exhaust hang too low and sit on the body of the car.



This basically caused the mid pipe to sit too high, and caused the B pipe to sit too low. It also angled it to sit against the car.



There was plenty of cutting and welding though, it wasn't quite a straight bolt on, but I also am using a non-standard small ricey muffler that most of these exhausts are meant for.


I love the STI muffler, it is very quiet inside of the car, while sounds beautiful on the outside. Since I went with a 3" turbo-back exhaust, I figured boring out the muffler would have some benefits too.


2.5" OD



Used a 3"OD holesaw



Here is the input pipe that I had to pull off



Had a ton of metal shavings to clean off



Drilled out the second tier, that's how far the input pipe went.



3" OD to 3" ID pipe fits perfectly




I also removed the heatshield so that the muffler could sit about .25" higher






Getting the pipe to the muffler was also fun



All of the pipes welded together and painted the welds (since I used regular steel mig wire)








And finally the most important piece... It's either an air deflector, or an "Oh CRAP my exhaust hanger broke!" bar.



Welded it all together




Finally the idling video

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YyGGVEOH1k]3in Exhaust STI Muffler - YouTube[/ame]

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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When I first built the exhaust I was turbo, thus it was pretty quiet and not raspy. After the turbo died and I went NA for a while I had to get a resonator installed. Thus I picked up a 3" Borla from a friend.




Heat shields needed a little persuasion with a hammer to make room for the 5" can.



About an 1" of space now :)






Now P11's have skid plates in the back, I had to use the hammer on that too.




Finally the videos..

Here is the no resonator video, I reved to 7k at most here.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0MOpNDqAbc]SR20VE 3" Exhaust, STI Muffler, NoResonator - YouTube[/ame]


Second video, reved to 8k twice, bounced off the rev limiter for a little...

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVGZ60HK7co]SR20VE 3" Exhaust STI Muffler Borla 5" Resonator - YouTube[/ame]

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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That's it for tonight, I know you came in here expecting a turbo build but so far your you got nothing but NA mods. In next couple posts will be getting into the turbo portion of the build.


Also do keep in mind these are pictures from couple years back and my overall skills (welding included) have gotten much better :lol:.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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T25 Manifold

As part of KISS, I used manifold that comes stuck on SR20DET with T25 turbo's, we call them T25 manifolds. The alternative is a GTiR T28 manifold which should have better bends and better flow, thus it sits lower but closer to the block.


Since I'm planning on running a 3" compressor housing, T25 manifold is a better bet for more clearance, even though it's slightly less efficient at flow.


I ported and cleaned up the manifold casting imperfections.




T25 JPipe

JPipe's are the first exhaust components after the turbo, it's basically the first half of the downpipe. Once again we mainly use OEM ones since aftermarket options are very scarce for the FWD crowd (plenty RWD versions though).


Stock T25 J-Pipes have horrible casting marks everywhere, all adds up to bad flow. You can see how much the O2 sensor protrudes and restricts flow too



Since I can do closed loop through my wideband with my NismoTronic ecu, I can just block this O2 port and delete the front O2 sensor. Plus it gives you little more space in our cramped engine bays.



Here is the bottom up view of where the O2 sensor would be to show how little space there is. O2 sensor block is already installed.



After probably 20 minutes of porting





20 more minutes later, this is where I called the quits.




05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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First things first had to make another gasket, I use gasket sheets that they sell at auto stores. They are good for one or two removals, after that need to be remade.




Downpipe bolted up:



Had to take a good chunk out of the p11 crossmember to get it to clear the flex pipe.



Added a wideband bung right behind the flex pipe



And finally bolted up to the rest of the exhaust


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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I Previously had a "Disco Potato" (GT2860rs) before but felt like it was a little too slow spooling for a street/autox car.






Coming from a disco I had to go back to bolted on inlets and outlets.



Had to grind the block and turbo as usual to get it to fit




Used a 2" 90* elbow and all set:





Went for a test drive and I was boosting over 16psi, for a new turbo the wastegate arm was moving a bit roughly, I dismissed it as a new turbo not broken in issue. Turns out it was a defect, luckily I had yet another GT28r laying around, this one came with a nice coated turbine housing.


While I was at it ported the housing



By the time I got around to switching the exhaust housings I was already running OEM fans instead of slim fans. Due to this the GT28r intake housing with adapter wasn't working anymore. I had a spare disco housings laying around and figured I would try using it.


Also got an AGP replaceable spring internal gate, it's huge though, fitment is pretty tight.




With disco housing look at all of that space



Still with oem fans barely any space left



All done yet again:



Turbo Inlet, 3" takes a lot of room, almost hitting the clutch arm.


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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Um, you're really good at this stuff... Impressive work and attention to detail.

In for more build porn!


Thanks! I figured those that enjoy my Legacy's fairly mild build thread would appreciate my much more involved car build. Legacy is my daily and I do my best not to over mod it :lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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I've been through too many intercooler piping setups, here is the latest setup. This routing method allowed me to keep my fog lights.


Hot Side Piping:

2" piping under the radiator support. I got these pipes from my turbo B15 Sentra, they are prewelded and require no thrills to install, which is nice.




Cold Side Piping:

From the intercooler it goes back under the radiator support with 2.5" piping



Gave it plenty of room for radiator fans



All set



Turbo Inlet:




IAT & IACV Ports

In preparation for running MAP with Nemu had to add an IAT sensor to the piping. Plus with the bends that I wanted to take, I didn't have any prewelded pipes. Restored to JBWeld, 4 years later and it's still holding.





IACV Breather and IAT sensors JBWelded in.


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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The previous intercooler I had was a 2.5" CXRacing one, since I was selling my turbo Sentra and didn't want to sell it with the nicer Precisision intercooler I decided to fit it onto my car. Which required a lot more bumper cutting.


Didn't really want to come to this, but had to take the whole front end off.



Drilled a hole in the hood latch support. It was hung like this on the B15 for couple years without any issues, figured it would be good enough (plus it only has one hanger).




Cut down the lower mount bolt so it wouldn't hit the IC.




Next fun, power steering oil cooler. The old intercooler sat closer to the frame, thus couldn't fit the stock PS cooler and had to get an aftermarket one. I couldn't figure out where to put it with this intercooler, since it's 1.5" thicker and has different inlet and outlets.




Found this from my wrecked auto G20. Brackets didn't quite align so had to resort to good old zip ties in one spot.



Intercooler finally mounted



Bumper support and sport headlights back on.



Trying to get the bumper back on, and as expected it hits the thicker intercooler. Now the shaving fun begins..




Here is what the car looks with the bumper uncut, if it magically fit:



Let the cutting begin:




I kind of like the way it looks, reminds me of the TEV bumper




Sadly it still wouldn't fit had to cut it more. I left it for the night, but it finally mostly fits. I will cut it more evenly later.



05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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Taking a break from power mods, here are some cosmetic mods.. When the G20 was re-debuted in 1999 Nissan decided to add a lot of chrome. In 2002 they had a Sport trim with blacked out headlights, more aggressive grille and clear side markers.


Sport Blacked out Headlights

Here is what the headlights and grille look like bone stock:



Sport headlights are blacked out, but for what ever reason the corners are not!



Took the corners apart and blacked them out






Sport Grille

I was thinking about modding the stock grille and saving a hundred bucks, but when a black Sport Grille showed up in classifieds it was hard to say no.


Stock Grille



Sport Grille



With all these mods the car just looks much more boss



Sport Side Markers

Stock side markers are very 90's yellow and stick way out




Sport side markers are much slicker



05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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I always liked the front bumper mouth, it makes the car looks much more aggressive, basically what the GTR or Evo X have.




But having a black car meant that painting the mouth flat black would not really be noticeable at all. I decided to try something different and more subtle.




First coat



Let it sit overnight and installed the fogs



On the car:



2015 Update with a bigger intercooler:


05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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This is a summary post of my 6 speed swap, detailed thread can be found over at G20.net.


Summary Pictures Of the Retrofit Swap

350z Clutch (250mm) vs P11 Clutch (215mm)



JWT S15 Flywheel:




Stock trans mount is replaced with the Spec V one





Transmission it self is a good bit bigger and longer, not much room in there now.



Subframe needs to be cut/shaved in a few locations and rewelded





Clutch slave is in a new location and really close to my turbo inlet.



Spec V axles do luckily fit, but they are a little short (axle can be seen being stretched). Problem is ABS ring, if you want ABS you need to shave the spec v one a little to fit the P11 over it.




Mazworx Axle bracket is the best way to go, which I brazed so it wouldn't come loose.





Shifter and Cables, here I had to convert to cable driven setup.





05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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