Blown Head Gasket: How to approach, what else to takle

[utc_pyro]

TL;DR: Blew head gasket on 2006 LGT with 150K on it. What do I do now?

 

Just heard from the shop I have an internal head gasket leak. Car has 150K or so on it, stage 2+ ~18psi.

 

Coolant was overflowing the tank after a hard drive with lots of boost, but was not overheating. There was brown grap in the coolant, but no oil or coolant in the oil. Had block test done, confirmed combustion products in the coolant. Based on past coolant consumption it probably had been leaking a little for the last four years but just recently got bad enough to notice. Had a slightly leaking hose before so I had always attributed the consumption to that.

 

So, now I'm facing having the motor pulled and deep surgery done on it. Step one is finding a shop that will do quality work at a reasonable price. Step two is actually doing it, and that's where I draw a blank.

 

Beyond just taking it to the chosen shop and saying "fix it", people are talking about having them do ARP head studs or particular gaskets. Is there a recommended set of parts to have installed for durability?

 

While they have the motor apart and heads under the knife, what else do I need to look at doing on a 150K motor while the labor is cheaper? Timing belt, tensioners, and plugs were done 20K ago. So I'm wondering more about deep motor stuff like the valves, head work, odd seals, or even just replacing the short block preventively. Any easy win performance/durability upgrades while it's apart?

 

Planned goal this summer was to install stage 3 fuel (have on hand), EL headers, and a JMP rebuilt VF52 or equivalent. Aiming for ~310WHP and want to handle any required supporting work while the motor is already apart.

 

Known issues: Boost leak around throttle body (new hose and TB gasket on hand). Possible exhaust leak pre turbo (grimspeed flex joints or gaskets failing). Turbo inlet has seen better days.

 

Thanks

[fotofan]

Idk if you're planning on a TGV delete but I'd definitely do that. A new shortblock would prolly be a good idea (maybe with Manley drop-in pistons if you wanna spend a little more) if you're planning on Stage 3 and you could always keep the old one for backup. Were you gonna have all the Stage 3 stuff done at the same time as HG? Cuz that would save a lot of labor.

[Max Capacity]

See my click here link for how to do it right the first time.

 

A stock ej257 will handle your 320whp goal.

[utc_pyro]

Idk if you're planning on a TGV delete but I'd definitely do that. A new shortblock would prolly be a good idea (maybe with Manley drop-in pistons if you wanna spend a little more) if you're planning on Stage 3 and you could always keep the old one for backup. Were you gonna have all the Stage 3 stuff done at the same time as HG? Cuz that would save a lot of labor.

 

Was going to just install DW740's on the stock TGV's myself, but this is an opertunity to do ID1000's. I can just buy Zerolift top feed TGV's, new rails, and injectors and have the shop put them in a minimal cost due to it being apart anyway. That was more than I was willing to DIY, and will provide more ECU inputs for future mods (flexfule).

 

Turbo is going to have to come later, mainly because I'm still looking for one to have rebuilt .

 

See my click here link for how to do it right the first time.

 

So if I understand what you did: you got an OEM gasket kit and short block, had the heads rebuilt, and reinstalled them with APR studs? Then replaced all the other gaskets and hoses on the motor?

[Tuning Alliance]

Was going to just install DW740's on the stock TGV's myself, but this is an opertunity to do ID1000's. I can just buy Zerolift top feed TGV's, new rails, and injectors and have the shop put them in a minimal cost due to it being apart anyway. That was more than I was willing to DIY, and will provide more ECU inputs for future mods (flexfule).

 

Turbo is going to have to come later, mainly because I'm still looking for one to have rebuilt .

 

 

 

So if I understand what you did: you got an OEM gasket kit and short block, had the heads rebuilt, and reinstalled them with APR studs? Then replaced all the other gaskets and hoses on the motor?

 

Send us a pm, we'll help ya out on pricing

 

-Brian

[doobaruGT]

Was going to just install DW740's on the stock TGV's myself, but this is an opportunity to do ID1000's. I can just buy Zerolift top feed TGV's, new rails, and injectors and have the shop put them in a minimal cost due to it being apart anyway. That was more than I was willing to DIY, and will provide more ECU inputs for future mods (flexfuel).

 

I would steer clear of the Zerolift TGV risers. While they're composite, they're not great quality and the bolt holes aren't even sleeved. I got a set and the mating surface was bowed. Apparently they only take 12 ft-lbs of torque before they crack, too. For the volume of air that passes through them, any heat dispersant characteristics can be made up with phenolic spacers. I did the same but put on the IAG billet TGV deletes. Very happy with them.

[Max Capacity]

 

 

So if I understand what you did: you got an OEM gasket kit and short block, had the heads rebuilt, and reinstalled them with APR studs? Then replaced all the other gaskets and hoses on the motor?

 

 

Yes, that's pretty much it. My tuner is TA, the engine has over 72,000 trouble free miles at 21psi on the dyno.

[utc_pyro]

I would steer clear of the Zerolift TGV risers. While they're composite, they're not great quality and the bolt holes aren't even sleeved. I got a set and the mating surface was bowed. Apparently they only take 12 ft-lbs of torque before they crack, too. For the volume of air that passes through them, any heat dispersant characteristics can be made up with phenolic spacers. I did the same but put on the IAG billet TGV deletes. Very happy with them.

 

Hum that changes the economics of it a bit. Though really ~$150 difference isn't much with how much work we're looking at anyway.

 

Maybe TA or someone else with tuning a lot of stage 3 setups can comment:

A) Are ID1000's really worth it over the DW740cc side feeds I have on hand?

B) If doing ID1000's is it really worth converting the side feed TGV's? They have a kit to put them in my side feeds so really it just gives options on fuel rails.

C) Realistically, what good are TGV deleats at this power level good for? 5 HP up top and a freed up input for logging?

D) So is even screwing with ~$1k (parts) in other injectors, TGV's and fule lines vs what I have on hand for 5hp? I could sell the DW740cc's and stock injectors for maybe $300, but it seems like more power/$ could be had elsewhere even with the install being super cheap now.

[Max Capacity]

PM Mike or Brian of TA. They are busy on Saturdays and may not have time to check in.

 

 

I made 280whp on a heart breaker Mustang Dyno. The car feels pretty quick. I'm on stock fueling and the TGV's are still there. Mike would have a good idea what the 740's will give you.

 

I'm guessing the 1000's are over kill. But I'm no expert.

[utc_pyro]

Power wouldn't really be the reason to go ID1000's, that would be for smoothness, driveability, and tuneability. Being 5eat a 18g is about as as big as one would want to go (even with shift kit and bushings) and that's well within what 740cc's can do. ID1000 would also open up the option of running Flexfule and E85 with up to an 18g, but the avalibity of that is extreamly poor here.