jamguitarist Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 Hello all! I've decided since I will be posting many questions in the upcoming weeks and months, I should compile them into this one thread. My build has not started (besides the few parts I have accumulated), so I am looking for recommendations and thoughts on parts that would be best for my needs. My situation has recently changed. I have accepted a job 5 minutes from my house at my Purdue! Until this, my plans were to build a commuter vehicle with basic upgrades. Since I will no longer be driving 100+ miles a day, I would like to shoot for some higher goals and more fun! A quick background of my car: I bought my 2006 Legacy GT Limited 2 years ago. It was a one owner vehicle and immaculately maintained by previous owner. Undercarriage is clean as can be. The car was purchased with just under 130k and a binder including dealer records for every service and repair, down to a squeaky glove box hinge that was replaced at about 25k! Now the car has 160k on it and it runs as good as it did off the lot new. This last year of commuting to work has added up miles fast! I would like to build a motor for this girl, her OEM clutch, factory turbo etc has to be getting tired! WARNING: I am someone that will research a part for months before I commit! Things I know that I need to order, regardless of other choices: -OEM Subaru timing belt kit/water pump -Full engine seal kit -Oil pump kit/pickup(suggestions welcome) -ARP Head Studs -FMIC (Purchased) -GFB Hybrid BPV/BOV -Stage 2 clutch -Mishimoto Oil Cooler -Catless up (Purchased) -Catless down (Purchased) -Midpipe back exhaust (Purchased) Engine plans, currently in the air and open to critique and advice: Turbo: I was planning on using a new OEM VF52. This seem to be the go to turbo for anyone wanting a bit more power and OEM reliability. Since I am now wanting a little more, I have been looking into the new FP 71 HTA. It is the replacement to the 68HTA. Here and the specs from FP Website. "Subaru 71HTA Compressor wheel - 71HTA Flow rating - 51LB per minute CW Measurements - 51.2MM Inducer / 68MM Exducer TW Measurements - 60.8MM Inducer / 54MM Exducer Compressor Housing - 84MM FAP Cover or 58MM Stock Appearing Cover Turbine Housing - FP 8CM Subaru Turbine Housing CHRA - FP Journal Bearing Oil Line - Included" Block: I was planning on an OEM short block as used by many on here for their builds, by I still am afraid of ringlet failure. This partition is very open to suggestions. The OEM is certainly the cheapest option, but I have been looking into a new bare block with OEM crank (1500) then using Manley rods and either Wiesco or Manley pistons. This would take me to about 2500 in my short block but for the peace of mind it would bring me, the extra couple hundred is worth it. Heads: This is an area I need help badly. I would like to find some pull off LGT heads, but they seem to be non existent! Any leads at all would help! I have a great local shop that I would have rebuild these to OEM specs. Possibly a little port work as described by Max Capacity in his build thread. I have seen STi heads for sale, and am not against using these but I am not sure how to make them work if they have dual AVCS. Not much has come up on the matter in my searches. I have nothing against using STi heads if they are easier to come by and will work without issue. Fuel: E85 has always been something I've wanted to try. We have multiple fills stations with E85 locally. I think a DW300 pump will work but I'm not sure what injectors would be best. Everything is open to your suggestions. There are plenty of step by step build threads so I do not feel the need to document every bolt I remove. I will post pictures as I go for the fun of it though. - jamguitarist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 In for useful info! (Because I'm too lazy to go back and read the multitudinous humongously long rebuild threads!) I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 IMO if there's nothing wrong with your heads, rebuild them and keep things simple. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 IMO if there's nothing wrong with your heads, rebuild them and keep things simple. Simple is why I want LGT heads, I would like to buy a set and have them rebuilt though. My plan is to assemble a new long block and swap it all in one weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 If you only change pistons, you can buy a stock SB and make the swap intact with drop-in style. If you change the rods, I think you need to split the case. Not a big deal but you may want to be sure you can do that, or you have someone you can trust to do it. Or you buy the whole thing off the shelf, which you seem to be considering. I'm no expert on high HP, but from the discussions here it seems the stock rods are not the main concern for most builders, compared to the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 If I go with rods and pistons, I would buy a new bare block which I assume comes split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Here's another thought. Seeing it still runs well, look into buying second car or may be a older pick up truck. Then you could take your engine out and do what you wanted to it. You would then have a car to drive when the Subaru is down. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 That is the plan Max. I tend to find great deals on Cavaliers for this purpose. I've done it a few times before. My problem with having it down for an extended period is I have no place to put it. I have an apartment, and though friends and family have garages, I do not want to occupy their space as they all have their own projects. I was planning on using my friends garage when the GSTx is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Your stock heads are B25, single AVCS. Any B25 Subaru head will swap in just fine. If you really really really want to have the heads rebuilt while your car is running to minimize down time, D25 heads can work. Still single AVCS, the biggest headache is determining the turbo oil feed line. Once you know what year head you're going to use, determining the correct line is simple enough. The D25 will raise your starting Compression Ratio slightly, though if you are getting tuned, that can be accounted for. I wanted to start tear down and have my new engine running a few days later, so I used D25 because I couldn't find B25 for reasonable prices at the time and couldn't wait for my stock heads to be refurbed. Oil Line and OCV solenoids were the two things that kept me up at night. Hoses, sensors, bolts, cams, buckets, cam gears...all completely interchangeable. For ultimate simplicity, B25 heads, from any year, or any model, will work fine. Buy the engine gasket kit for the year heads you will use. If you're replacing your OCV solenoids, also buy those for the year head you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 Exactly the info I was looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Just found this gem. About the best info you could ask for casting wise. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1856856 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 If I go with rods and pistons, I would buy a new bare block which I assume comes split. You can, in principle, buy all the parts and assemble a block a la carte, but I don't think it is done that way by individuals very often. It seems more common to start with a short block that was already factory fitted, with stock specs, and then break that down, swap parts and reassemble. And then there is cost, which could tip things the other way depending on how much you plan to change. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 If I were to order an OEM short, I'd just pop the pistons out and install forged and leave the rods alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 16, 2016 Author Share Posted May 16, 2016 Both sad and hilarious at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 I'm looking at a stock bore used block. Bore looks great still from a recent rebuild. What is the wall to piston clearance for forged pistons, and since it is stock bore, shouldn't I be able to get away with honing to those numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Sub'd for what looks like a fun build. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Purchased a used short block from the classifieds. Plan on running stock crank, Manley rods, and Manley pistons. Hopefully stock bore but that is tbd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Are 2005 OBXT heads the same as our heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Should be. I don't see why they would be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I'm pretty sure they're B25 heads just like ours. I think the only significant differences between an OBX and an LGT wagon are cosmetic exterior bits (bumper, hood, roof rails, etc), suspension bits, and brakes. Our motors are identical. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Hopefully it's still available when I get my first paycheck found a heck of a deal on a long block locally and I just want the heads. So I'll be passing along the savings for a short block to you guys if I get it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I happen to be in the market for pistons or a new shortblock. My plan is to only buy new pistons, but heck, if a good deal pops up on a SB I may snag it. I'm interested in details if you care to let me in on your buried treasure. You don't have to tell me where it's hidden, I'm just curious about when you'd buy it, the approximate mileage, and what car it came from. I'm hoping to have new pistions or a SB in my garage in about 3 weeks. Lafayette is close enough that if the price was right I'd be willing to pick it up from you. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Ran fine till it jumped a tooth. Possibly a usuable SB the way it is.... 125 bucks. Whole long block is 250. I want the heads and odds and ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamguitarist Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 I don't have the cash for it or I'd go get it now. Started a new job and payroll is way behind. Hopefully it'll still be around on the 22nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Update on the LB's background so others can chime-in: It's from a '05 OBxt that had about 150k miles on it. The turbo "was bad" and the timing somehow got messed up enough that the guide pin broke off one of the cams. The seller hasn't opened the valve covers and doesn't know what shape the cams are in. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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