phantommaggot Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 So, I just picked this thing up. 177k 5 spd I drove the SHIT out of it when I test drove it. It was quiet, smooth, drove good. It had just passed inspection. Little beat up on the outside, but clean inside. Everything worked but the front sunroof, Guess the gears are stripped.. meh.. no big deal, I don't use them anyways.. Supposedly had new head gaskets 20-30k ago, new clutch around the same time. Exhaust is WAY leaky, and I have one bad ear.. makes things hard to hear. but it drove pretty smooth and neither myself or my brother could pick out a knock. I think I'm sold on the idea of it knocking though. I could kind of feel a .. bump.. in my foot if I rest it on the clutch. Is there any way to get a few weeks of driving on a little knock, if that's what it is. I changed the oil to rotella-t 15w 40 with about .25 qt lucas and an oem filter. That didn't help much.. Any advice would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 First I would patch up the exhaust leaks, then I would go under the hood while its idling and listen for this knock. If you have a spun bearing it may make a chirp noise consistent with engine speed if is a rod bearing it will be a dull solid knock consistent with engine speed as well. However the bumping on your clutch pedal is totally different that is your throw-out bearing failing or something with your clutch pack. Seems like there are several small issues combing to create a larger one, work through those and you may realize your engine is fine. Get a sound clip if possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I'll go by the exhaust place tomorrow see if my guy can weld it all up. I'm moderately scared to drive it there though.. The clutch is about ~20k miles old.. apparently a shift fork and throw out bearing went in. The noise it's making is a popping/knocking type noise up to about 3k. then it dies off. Gets quieter as it gets warmer. But the knock stays. It doesn't have that god awful smacking noise when I let off at 3k though. My mr2 spun a bearing and if I let off at 3k it sounded like there were rocks in the motor. I'll Dig the vids I took up and post them shortly.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Oh well damn get those vids up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Video Video 2 And #3 These work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 They do work, but can't really hear much if anything strange in those videos. Driving video is too short and I can't hear any knock. Parking videos sound ok too. What type of logging can you do on a 2002 LGT? Any way to get at SSM params (if applicable)? You're looking for something more like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBSUdIS6WKU here is one that valve noise. the noise is at 1: 47 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 FFS Made a big post and it wouldn't let me post it because of an expired token.. Anyways.Here are a couple vids. I can hear the noise in them. warm car, after a drive around the block Can here it here too, a little When I pull out here. Again here Cold car, back and fourth in the driveway, some of that may be slap... It's absolutely louder when I'm using the clutch. But it stays. Gets quieter up to 3k and sort of disappears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 great videos. Have you checked you tentioner for your timing belt. heres a how to. the noise starts somewhere around 4:30 if you want to check it out. sounds similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Word, I'll do this tomorrow. Thanks for that vid. I'd love to have a solid car for a while.-_- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Don't thinkit's the tensioner. Got it all tore apart today and checked. Tensioner and belt look pretty new. Its tight too, no real jumping around and holding it down doesn't really stop anything. That said, I need to warm it up so the slap goes away and I can really hear it. So I put the timing belt covers and the crank pulley back on for tonight. I'll pop it apart again tomorrow and stick the alternator belt back on and let it warm up. Then see if that little noise is just the tensioner hopping up and down a teeny bit. Thanks again guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 OK Warmed it up today, let it run past the piston slap... -_- I can't tell where the noise is coming from. I can 'feel' it in the tensioner but it didn't seem to change much if I pushed on it like the guy did in that vid. It wasn't hopping all over the place. I'd hate to buy a timing kit and still need a bottom end.. -_- Add to that that the TQ wrench went on vacation with my 22mm socket.. I can't put it back together and take it to the exhaust place til I can find it or borrow one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 don't you hate lazy tools. you're doing work trying to solve this problem. another thought i had... what does your shift fork/ slave look like/ feel like? like do they make contact and do either have much play(slave piston and clutch fork)? and I know a video about finding a rod that is knocking, but yours dosent sound like its to heavy yet and i have to do a couple searches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Put it all back together today. I should brobably buy some stuff and get this thing tuned up.. First chance I get I'm gonna ride over and see if the exhaust guy I know is working. Get him to weld everything up. Really, I need motor mounts and trans mounts before I could rely on the exhaust to not break again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1021-sti-hardened-group-n-engine-and-transmission-mounts.aspx some of the best prices on those on the web... Megan (i think is the brand) makes a similar set up for even less too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 dont forget your kartboy or whiteline bushings on the tranny subframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 So, I'm looking at grabbing a full group n mount kit in 2 weeks. Might grab some plugs/wires this week if I can afford it. dont forget your kartboy or whiteline bushings on the tranny subframe. Have a link to the ones I should get, all I see under legacy on kartboys site is a shifter and some exhaust hangers.. I want to grab some exhaust mani gaskets too. Are there better aftermarket parts, or should I just go OEM? I can get mounts in, get the exhausted sealed up and see about fixing some noises. Any chance anyone on here has a 2.5 bottom end laying around in great shape? haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1732-kartboy-transmission-crossmember-bushings.aspx https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/transmission-and-differential-bushings/whi-w92829-whiteline-transmission-crossmember-bushing http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1671-whiteline-positive-shift-kit-for-2008-wrx-and-stis.aspx might need to call flatirons on the fitment for the last ones. they might be a little more expencive but flatirons now ships any whiteline product for free so you never know they could end up being cheaper. exhaust mani gaskets, i have no idea about after market, you might be able to get the turbo ones on there for a couple more dollars. but oem works and is pretty cheap. could look into doing an exhaust doughnut replacement too, since you said the exhaust is thrashing around. it lives where the two flanges join where there are the two spring bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 i have never tried this yet but if you think you have rod knock/ spun bearing you can send your oil to these guys and they look for the tiniest bits of metal and other bits of contamination. or when you have your engine slightly lifted for engine mounts you can pull your oil pan and look for gliter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 http://www.blackstone-labs.com this was suppose to be attached to the last post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Hey, Thanks for all the links i drove the car some this weekend. not a lot, but enough. The more I drive it the quieter the noise gets. Practically non existent once its been warm for a couple minutes. You can barely hear it when pulling out or stressing the clutch. Hopefully I can order some mounts and stuff this weekend and get the exhaust sorted. I may drive it a bit more and try sending the oil in too. Still haven't found a bottom end lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 hey man i think you might need to move this tread to pick more brains. I hope im not the only one that comes to this section. maybe just post a link in the 3rd gen section to bring people here. i asked about your clutch before and then you mentioned that you hear it, pulling out and stressing the clutch. what is the play like in the clutch fork up and down, side to side. is the piston/ pin coming out of the slave cylinder straight or tilted up or down. i had a premature TOB faliure, and it sounded like knock on cold starts until it warmed up, thought it was knock and that the lego was done. but ended up snapping a clutch fork and pulling it apart to find the culprit wasn't knock just a shitty clutch job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantommaggot Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 The stick is TIGHT. It got a new clutch and fork ~30k ago or so according to one of the previous owners. I'm gonna look at the master and slave first chance I get. One of the head gaskets is leaking, has to be. And it's gonna need valve cover gaskets. I tried to do the plugs today and the front passenger side plug was soaked with oil. I ordered a felpro valve cover kit and some NGK wires to go with the G-Power plugs I picked up. I'll do that all at once. I also drove the car a bunch today. The noise all but vanishes once I start driving it. I hope it's slap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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