FAILBOT Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 After lowering with Koni yellow inserts and H&R springs I have a creaking binding noise from the top of the front struts when turning. If I really loosen the nut at the top it stops binding and making noise. However, I know I can't keep it that loose. Why is it binding. What is different and how do I remedy it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Have you tried torquing the strut rod nut to spec? It should not be loose at all. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Anyone know how many foot lbs.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 So it's has to be binding on the conical washer to the bearing in the hat, but only when the weight of the car is on it. I torqued them to spec and still binds. If the weight is off it spins free by hand. If I loosen it till it stops then it literally is because there is zero torque. It's like the washer is too thick for the strut insert compared to the factory strut. Nobody has had this problem?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I have not had that issue. Is it possible that the bearing is giving out? How many miles on the tophats? My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 torque for the strut top bolt is 40.3 ft-lbs according to the manual.  Did you reuse the tophats and strut mounts or replace them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Car has 38k on it. Reused top hats. All I did was cut the strut and put the insert in. Then put it back together the way it was. I can't torque it at all without problems. If I take the nut off and turn the wheel, no problem. As soon as I tighten it even 15 ft lbs it makes noise. Â I think I have found the pproblem though. The strut shaft that comes through the bearing doesn't come through all the way like the factory. This is a real problem and I'll have to machine a sleeve to make up the distance. I just can't believe nobody else has had this issue if all these inserts are like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Did you drill out the opening on the tophats so the strut rod would clear all the way thru? My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I didn't drill anything on the fronts. Is this a must? See, the threads are half ways down inside the bearing. This is not right. If everyone has had to drill them out in the front then I haven't and need to. Mine came with no real instructions. At least not anything like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 That's because they are for a wrx not a legacy, welcome to the world of the 5th gen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 So does that mean yes I need to drill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I'm trying to remember if it was the front or rear tophats that need to be drileld out slightly. Been searching for 10min with no luck so far. I bought this set of bits to get the right diameter on the tophat [ame=http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Steel-Large-Titanium-Cutter/dp/B00KKNYEY0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]VicTsing 3Pcs HSS Steel Large Step Cone Drill Titanium Bit Set Hole Cutter 4-12/20/32mm - - Amazon.com[/ame] My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 How did you install the conical washer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I absolutely had to drill the rears. The shaft and threads were much larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I put it in the way it was. Cone up. It seemed like it was gonna go together ok, but I could only compress the spring so far while putting it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I think it was the rears that needed to be drilled out from what I can see from a quick googling, to 12mm. Did you compress the springs enough and pull the strut rod out all the way before installing all the tophat hardware? My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I put it in the way it was. Cone up. It seemed like it was gonna go together ok, but I could only compress the spring so far while putting it together. Wait, did you install the conical washer like a hat or a bowl? I believe I had it in the hat orientation. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Smaller end toward the top, yes? That is how it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Another thing, did you get the bumpstops far enough down the strut rod so that it would clear the ridge on the strut rod? I had that issue and it was in the dead of winter so the bumpstops were really difficult to move into proper position. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Conical washer on like a top hat. I did one strut at a time in case I forgot any orientation. I compressed the spring as much as possible with the compressors I have. It was enough to get them on what I thought was correct. I mean, the shaft is definitely part ways in the bearing. I just don't think it's long enough. I think I'm gonna disassemble one again to see how it fits without the spring and if anything else is noticeable. I'll report back in 20 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 No problem with bumpstops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Anyone know how many foot lbs.? According to GTeasers thread the front top hats/mounts should be at 15 and yes front or rear hats I'm not sure should be drilled out to 12mm. Is the insert absolutely sucked all the way down into the strut. He also gives a final measurement for that but guess you can't check that now. He mentions that the supplied bolt for this is sorta wimpy and a stronger one is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ok, so all torn apart. Dimensions match that of the factory struts shaft. So I'm doing something wrong. The shaft will go all the way through the bearing only if I remove the conical washer. Hmmmmm..... Doesn't it go cap over spring, washer then top? I'm so confused now. Otherwise it's no different than the factory and it fits the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 The conical washer goes between the spring perch and tophat if my memory is correct. What spring compressors are you using? My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAILBOT Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ones from advance auto. That is how I had it. Spring perch, washer (small end up) then top hat. I even put it on without the spring to check distances. Still threads are partially down in hole, but factory would have to be the same as it is the same size and length where the bearing sits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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