haruichi808 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hey guys everyone has been really helpful since I got my car and I have all my parts ready for install next week b4 my tune but I'm trying to get it all done in a day since it's my only day off till the tune, so I can try and make things as smooth as possible just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice for the parts I'm gonna install, -nameless dw-dp with intermediate pipe -racerX tmic -racerXchargepipe -turbo smart kompact bpv -grimmspeed 2015wrx ebcs with lgt adapter(is this by the turbo n is it plug n play?) -denso iridium spark plugs -ams oil 75w90 diff and tranny 5qt enough? Doing it at a friends house with power tools but no lift just jack stands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 The charge pipe and tmic shouldn't be too long of an install. The down pipe and exhaust I think would be the most time consuming. Personally, I would do the charge pipe, tmic, ebcs and plugs together since they are in the same general locations. Then move on to the dp and mp. Afaik the ebcs is not plug and play it does require tuning. If you are going to get it tuned straight away ask the tuner what he recommends. The fluids can be done at any time I would hold off on those unless it is a necessity. Really the plugs as well, but if it needs them why not. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 +1 on tuning for the EBCS. If you don't tune for it, you will definitely want to have a boost gauge handy while driving until you can get it tuned because it will respond differently than the factor BCS. If you do need to install it and can't get the tune done at the same time, ask your tuner to send you a 0 WGDC map. That will only allow the car to make the wastegate spring pressure for boost (maybe around 10 PSI). VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 The fluids can be done at any time I would hold off on those unless it is a necessity. Really the plugs as well, but if it needs them why not. I agree. The OEM plugs are good for stage 2 and should only be changed if it's time to do it as part of regularly scheduled maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 take a picture of the throttle body coupler before you remove it. getting it oriented correctly is what takes me the longest when installing my tmic. I'm talking every time even though I've done it like ten times now. Speaking of which... that coupler is a common failure point, you might want to proactively replace it with this or something like it: http://perrinperformance.com/i-17660130-coupler-kit-for-2008-16-wrx-top-mount-intercooler.html Also, do you have the correct sockets for the dp studs? I didn't. They're torx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 For the plugs, if you have an extra long spark plug socket/small extensions and hand ratchets, it will make life a whole lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 take a picture of the throttle body coupler before you remove it. getting it oriented correctly is what takes me the longest when installing my tmic. I'm talking every time even though I've done it like ten times now. Speaking of which... that coupler is a common failure point, you might want to proactively replace it with this or something like it: http://perrinperformance.com/i-17660130-coupler-kit-for-2008-16-wrx-top-mount-intercooler.html Also, do you have the correct sockets for the dp studs? I didn't. They're torx. Why do you need to worry about the downpipe studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 You have to remove at least three of the studs to be able to work the stock dp off. Somewhere in the depths of this forum is a detailed Avo dp install thread that is just full of good information. Found it: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/avo-dp-install-fitment-233597.html?t=233597&highlight=avo+pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Thanks for the input my tuner sent me a temp safe map to run with the ebcs until the tune And I just hit 30k so I just thought for peace of mind that I would change the plugs And I will take a picture of the throttle body hose I bought racerX hose And what is a torque socket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-26820-E-10-Torx-Socket/dp/B000P0XLYM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]Amazon.com: Lisle 26820 E-10 Torx Socket: Automotive[/ame] This is the one I got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Amazon.com: Lisle 26820 E-10 Torx Socket: Automotive This is the one I got. Yeah, I lucked out and the guy that helped me install my DP had a set of those. We had to remove at least two studs in order to get the DP to drop. Some of the nuts were so rusty the only way to get them off was to remove the stud. I'm thinking HI has a lot less salt and rust shouldn't be as big of an issue. I've also heard of some people removing the thermostat housing for extra room to get the DP out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sm00veM00ve Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Yup those stud remover socket was what I was waiting on as well. When I was putting on the nameless tbe with a buddy, we were able to just pull the cat portion of the dp off without removing the studs. Only had to remove and transfer the studs because I upgraded the turbo. Theres some metal bracket that goes above the downpipe that was holding things up so I did what GTEASER and Swanne did..cut,bend and just got it out of there...pretty sure it doesn't do anything. Also removed the thermo housing to get better access to the last nut. Make sure you pb blast them real well. Charge pipe, I didn't replace mine which is definitely on the list.. I took out the left radiator fan to wiggle it out, bpv, ebcs, and tmic are all pretty straight forward. Downpipe/exhaust is gunna take you the longest most likely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 So if I was to remove the turbo ( to maybe port the wastegate) as well I wouldn't have to worry about removing the studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haruichi808 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 I just looked at me gs ebcs I bought the 2015 wrx plus 2012 lgt adapter looked suggested but looking at it there's no place to connect them just wondering if the ebcs will use the mounting plate in it to mount somewhere n screw the adapter in the factory place then just run the hose from the adapter to the ebcs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 So if I was to remove the turbo ( to maybe port the wastegate) as well I wouldn't have to worry about removing the studs? Çorrect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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