dcthemvp Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 In an attempt to recharge my AC I noticed a few problems. First, I immediately noticed a hissing noise and located a leak (refer to video 1). Second, I noticed the compressor would only work on defrost setting. Even more interesting is that it only works when blower is set to 4. When you set blower on setting 1-3 compressor and fans cycle on and off continuously every 10 seconds or so (refer to video 2). Also, the compressor makes a very loud noise when engaging, but I've read that could be normal?? Is this most likely a wiring issue? What steps should I be taking to diagnose this issue? And is that leak repairable or do I need a new part? Forgive my inexperience. I'm new to working on cars. And as always, thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 https://vimeo.com/161381875https://vimeo.com/161381919 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Looks like the leak is in the condenser or in the fittings where the hoses attach to it. As far as the blower speed issue, it sounds like you need a new blower motor resistor. They are a pretty cheap and easy fix. I'd also pull the compressor out and drain out whatever oil is left in it and refill it, that should quiet it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Where is the blower motor resistor located? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Where is the blower motor resistor located? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I've never replaced one in this generation Subaru but they are normally attached to air ducking near the blower motor. You'll most likely have to remove the glove box to get access to it but again, I'm not entirely sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Ok thank you. Is there any steps I should take before that? Any other possibilities? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Ok thank you. Is there any steps I should take before that? Any other possibilities? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk We'll if you do into solving the leak first you will end up wasting the R134 if you have to put oil in the compressor so I'd say do the oil first. The A/C compressor clutch has a tendency to make noise when they get old but the clutch won't engage at all unless there is enough pressure in the system so it's hard to test it with a leaking system. Go to Autozone/Advance and buy an assortment pack of A/C o-rings, compressor oil and cheap R134. Replace all the orings and the oil in the compressor, once that's done try recharging the system and see if it still leaks. I'd suggest buying the cheapest R134 you can because it will probably get wasted if it still leaks. While you are at it, when you remove the tubes going into the A/C dryer (mounted on the passenger strut tower, I'd suggest removing the dryer and dumping out whatever water is it. Mind as well do the full service while it's all apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Alright, sounds like I got a plan sometime this week. Thanks! I'll make sure to document it. After replacing o-rings and compressor oil do you think my remaining half can of "A/C pro" might be enough to recharge?Also, it would probably be a ideal time to put in aftermarket lightweight crank pulley, huh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Regarding the AC working on defrost only, is there any other possibilities besides resistor and/or wiring issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Alright, sounds like I got a plan sometime this week. Thanks! I'll make sure to document it. After replacing o-rings and compressor oil do you think my remaining half can of "A/C pro" might be enough to recharge?Also, it would probably be a ideal time to put in aftermarket lightweight crank pulley, huh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It would probably be best to do the crank pulley while you have it all apart, it's not that big of a deal to pull the belts off but mind as well do it since it'll already be apart. If that's the big A/C Pro can then you should be good, that should at least get the system pressure up to where the compressor with engage. Also word of wisdom, have someone else to help with the crank pulley, the 22mm bolt on the crankshaft is usually torqued on there tight and it is way easier if you have someone else hold it in place while you take the bolt loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Regarding the AC working on defrost only, is there any other possibilities besides resistor and/or wiring issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I would check all the fuses first, but from the sounds of it, it is the blower motor resistor or the temp control until in the dash. The latter of which is much more expensive and rarely goes bad but you never know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 I would check all the fuses first, but from the sounds of it, it is the blower motor resistor or the temp control until in the dash. The latter of which is much more expensive and rarely goes bad but you never know. I checked all fuses and swapped AC relays around; no change. This sounds a lot like my issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108828-96-legacy-ac-works-with-defrost-but-not-other-vent-settings/ Wouldn't surprise me if a drink was spilled in the temp control unit considering how gunked up the drink holder was when I got the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I checked all fuses and swapped AC relays around; no change. This sounds a lot like my issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108828-96-legacy-ac-works-with-defrost-but-not-other-vent-settings/ Wouldn't surprise me if a drink was spilled in the temp control unit considering how gunked up the drink holder was when I got the car. I mean, it could very well be it, and I do have a parts car I can pull the unit out of if you want to try that, but if I were you, I'd try the other stuff first just because it's the cheaper and easier options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Sounds good. Save that unit just incase Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 We'll if you do into solving the leak first you will end up wasting the R134 if you have to put oil in the compressor so I'd say do the oil first. The A/C compressor clutch has a tendency to make noise when they get old but the clutch won't engage at all unless there is enough pressure in the system so it's hard to test it with a leaking system. Go to Autozone/Advance and buy an assortment pack of A/C o-rings, compressor oil and cheap R134. Replace all the orings and the oil in the compressor, once that's done try recharging the system and see if it still leaks. I'd suggest buying the cheapest R134 you can because it will probably get wasted if it still leaks. While you are at it, when you remove the tubes going into the A/C dryer (mounted on the passenger strut tower, I'd suggest removing the dryer and dumping out whatever water is it. Mind as well do the full service while it's all apart. Hey, just wondering am I supposed to have the refrigerant removed before replacing the o-rings? Also, I think I may have just overcharged my AC due to a inaccurate pressure reading caused by the outside temperature being lower than the 70-90 degree A/C pro adjustable gauge. Is this possible? If so, I'm going to replace o-rings and cross my fingers the noise goes away with proper pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 And if anyone knows the o-ring sizes and/or part #'s could you please share? I hate buying redundantly and prefer ordering oem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hey, just wondering am I supposed to have the refrigerant removed before replacing the o-rings? Also, I think I may have just overcharged my AC due to a inaccurate pressure reading caused by the outside temperature being lower than the 70-90 degree A/C pro adjustable gauge. Is this possible? If so, I'm going to replace o-rings and cross my fingers the noise goes away with proper pressure. Yes you have to remove the refrigerant before you do anything else, you are technically supposed to have a shop remove and recycle it properly but you can just put a rag over the bleed valve and open it with a small screwdriver and just leave it open until it stops spraying out. It's possible to overcharge it but did you make sure to have the engine running with the A/C turned on? It is a fairly large system and you have to have it cycling while filling it. And it's easy to build pressure making it appear overcharged if the system isn't cycling. As far as O-ring size I don't know, I can measure some of the ports with a caliper but I don't know how accurate it'd be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Think I may have just overcharged it. It must of been in the 40's when I did it and the gauge is meant for 70-90 degress, so my reading must of been way off. Should of known better. Anyhow, since the pressure has dropped the compressor is running smoothly on all settings (so far). Now I'm going to have my father help me properly remove the refrigerant and replace o-rings. Crossing my fingers that's it. Hope this helps someone in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Think I may have just overcharged it. It must of been in the 40's when I did it and the gauge is meant for 70-90 degress, so my reading must of been way off. Should of known better. Anyhow, since the pressure has dropped the compressor is running smoothly on all settings (so far). Now I'm going to have my father help me properly remove the refrigerant and replace o-rings. Crossing my fingers that's it. Hope this helps someone in the future. If the compressor is running then it's not overcharged. There is a pressure sensor that will keep the compressor from operating when pressure is too high or too low in order to limit possible damage. Is it still leaking? If it isn't leaking then no need to do the o-rings. Also, if the noise stopped then no need to add oil too, the refrigerant does have some oil in it so that will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Unfortunately it's still hissing slightly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Unfortunately it's still hissing slightly Just for giggles, does that A/C Pro have a leak detector in it? If so, see if you can find a UV light and shine it around the engine bay and see if you can find the leak. I learned the hard way with that when mine was leaking I went right to replacing o-rings before I found the leak and it turns out a rock went through my condenser so it was time and money wasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Just for giggles, does that A/C Pro have a leak detector in it? If so, see if you can find a UV light and shine it around the engine bay and see if you can find the leak. I learned the hard way with that when mine was leaking I went right to replacing o-rings before I found the leak and it turns out a rock went through my condenser so it was time and money wasted. It doesn't, but I hope it's just the o-ring in video 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scar13 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 A few A/C service tips: apply a light coating of a/c oil to O-rings to help them seal, it also reduces the chance of damaging (munching) the o-ring as you push it into place. Do not use a bunch of 134a cans with "added oil" to charge your system, the oil will take up room in your system and reduce the amount of room for refrigerant in your system, making it less efficient at cooling. Definitely get the atmospheric air evacuated from your A/C system BEFORE charging the system. If you have air in the system it is not going to cool as well and can hurt the compressor over time. You should have the system evacuated to 30 inches of vacuum before charging the system, this also pulls out moisture from the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 A few A/C service tips: apply a light coating of a/c oil to O-rings to help them seal, it also reduces the chance of damaging (munching) the o-ring as you push it into place. Do not use a bunch of 134a cans with "added oil" to charge your system, the oil will take up room in your system and reduce the amount of room for refrigerant in your system, making it less efficient at cooling. Definitely get the atmospheric air evacuated from your A/C system BEFORE charging the system. If you have air in the system it is not going to cool as well and can hurt the compressor over time. You should have the system evacuated to 30 inches of vacuum before charging the system, this also pulls out moisture from the system. Thankfully after my grandfather got done working at Boeing he opened up a A/C repair and appliance store, so my father learned from him and kept all his tools. It was pretty cool not only having the equipment handy, but also knowing my grandpa made his money with them. Anyways, we did all that including vacuuming to 30 InHg. Sorry for not documenting it on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcthemvp Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 It's working good now btw Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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