Add caster at the top or bottom?

[Bezz]

I currently have Whiteline's ALK Bushings installed but severely dislike the adjustment on it.

I do at least two alignments a year and pull my hair out every time I go to adjust my caster (usually giving up and letting it sit "close enough.")

 

I was curious if just using my coilover's caster adjustment gives the same "anti-lift"

properties or if it is the actual position of the rear ALK bushing that gives it those properties.

 

I would much prefer a zero offset bushing and adjust from the top for ease of use,

but do enjoy how the whiteline ALK feels and do not particularly want to lose that feeling.

 

Input appreciated.

[bigBADbenny]

Swap your coilovers camber plates over, from one side of the car to the other, and install so they point inwards to the rear of the car for dual camber/caster adjustment or get MSI/DMS Street type camber plates.

[Bezz]

I have caster adjustment, the question Im posing is does it matter geometry-wise adjusting the caster at the top or the bottom? I know I'll be losing some dive and lift due to no alk but I can live with that.

[bigBADbenny]

The anti lift component of the WL LCA bushes is common to both the camber adjust model and the non caster model, as that function is performed by shims on the LCA mounting bolt.

 

The shims adjust the relative height of the rear LCA pivot thus enhancing "anti lift" properties.

 

I went with the AVO CO LCA's which iirc are similar to Superpro's offering, my cars handling characteristics are possibly more defined by motorsport grade, digressively damped Shockworks coilovers.

 

The only minor downside being the possibility to rub the liner with a tall tyre, I have no issues running 18x8.5 +35 w/ 235/40 and a nice 6.7 deg caster

 

Since the AVO bushes are not adjustable once installed, I'd definitely consider the MSI/DMS street camber plates as they have multiple mounting holes around the perimeter which would allow fine adjustment of camber and caster. That or just go a custom CNC solution.

[Bezz]

Awesome thank you that's the exact info i needed. I was just worried because nowhere does it specify that the non caster ones also do "anti-lift" I was looking at the avo ones as well as I like their design with the cups and the lip on the bushing. Already have lots of caster adjustment up top so I'll be fine there.. and yes 6.7 does help alot at the track

[bigBADbenny]

Well you're correct, the WL product I'm referring (and used) to seems to have been discontinued.

Same as 334 but w/o caster offset.

But from reviewing this FAQ: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8384387 the antilift property is derived on BP/BL/GR etc from the shims that lower the rear LCA mount.

So if required you could keep your current bushes, lock in the caster you require and leave it at that.

Or rotate them for neutral (OE) caster and increased or decreased track and camber (?).

If your alignment keeps shifting, consider shimming your strut mount bolts and or subframe mounts, the latter with rigid collar. The latter is considered tinfoil hat brand snake oil by some but I dig the idea regardless

[Bezz]

They do shift I marked them last time just to see if that was what was happening, the area that I live has roads closer to that of Eastern-Europe back country so my suspension gets hammered kn the daily. I know my suffrage shifts as well but that shifts at the track every single time so I expect by the end of the day to have a completely new alignment lol. Now knowing that it is just shims that dictate the amount of lift/dive I am going to get the neutral bushing and maybe try a thing or two myself to see if i can get even more weight transfer and try get more turn-in.

[gtonstilts]

on my obxt i slotted the top bolt holes for upper mount, good for a half degree of adjustment