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New to Subaru, Check Engine Light


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Hello everyone, I am new to Subarus but i have a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5 gt turbo limited edition. I am missing the intake duct, and i am getting check engine light with codes p0302 engine misfires. So i have to pics one of a normal engine and one pick with mine. Lets kinda play what is wrong with this picture, all the help is truly appreciated. In one of the pictures i have circled a part can someone tell me what that is, and why mine looks different.

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Let me begin by saying that I am not a subie tech, I have limited mechanical experience with these turbo boxer motors and I am still learning more about these cars every single day.

 

With that said, the very first thing I noticed in your pic is that you're missing the factory ram-air duct and your filter is showing :p. The 2nd thing that looks odd is the MAF sensor, which you circled in yellow, looks either to be hooked up wrong or from the wrong vehicle.

 

Now, I don't know what is causing your misfires or codes, but in my limited experience these engines seem to me to be extremely temperamental. They do not react well to any changes in intake, exhaust, fueling, or boost without ecu tuning. This means that even swapping out the intake box for a cone filter or possibly even a higher flow replacement panel filter may require revised ECU tuning to function properly.

 

There is a chance that all you need to do is buy and install a factory ram air duct and make sure that MAF sensor is proper and hooked up correctly, reset the ecu and run the car to check for CELs. But if I recall correctly there could me more issues lurking as well such as vacuum or boost leaks, improper valve clearance, etc, which could also trigger those codes.

 

How many miles are on the motor? How long have you been driving the vehicle like this and under what conditions do you get the CEL?

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Someone routed the maf wire wrong , it foes from the the front of the box. Id suggest resetting the light and seeing if it comes back. Subarus are temperamental and the misfire could have been a fluke. But dont boost too much untill all issues are resolved.

I bought an auto be more involved in my uninvolvedness . 200k+ Club

If you can't blind them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit.

My high mileage turd.

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I actually have only had it for a few days, i bought it cash and it has 75k miles, i paid six. I feel like if i can get this little things ironed out its a deal of a century. The light gets set when i start to accelerate or get to a reasonably high velocity. I got it from a dealer, i have no idea why somebody would want to take of that part of the intake. I guess my first step is to get the intake duct. On resetting the light, it goes away and comes back on its on, doesnt stay that way, and buy the way i got codes from auto zone. P0546 P0301 PO3O2 AND 0303, i have looked them up , but not sure what to do still. I really appreciate the feedback.
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What state are you in? Take it back to the dealer let them handle it. This looks like a serious issue.

I bought an auto be more involved in my uninvolvedness . 200k+ Club

If you can't blind them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit.

My high mileage turd.

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  • I Donated Too

Got any better pictures maybe some with light in it?

What part of the intake is missing?

 

The MAF wiring messed like that and out of the loom make me suspect a possible modification for speed density tuning. It's not clear though but as battleready mentioned the wires aren't meant to route that way nor are you meant to throw all those codes without a serious issue. 546 may indicate high EGT's and lean fuel... 30x codes all misfires - lean fuel can be air getting in so lets see where that part of the duct is open?

 

Please stop doing 'reasonably high velocity' if you want any chance to keep a 'deal of the century'

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Got any better pictures maybe some with light in it?

What part of the intake is missing?

 

 

 

 

The big flat air intake that mounts on the radiator support.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Judging by the hack job I'd say it's related to the maf sensor. Definitely take it back if you have 30 days or what not. If you plan on DIY, you need a wiring diagram of the maf or perhaps a scan tool that reads live data. If the maf data is out of spec or doesn't fluctuate with throttle it's bad or faulty wiring.
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What state are you in? Take it back to the dealer let them handle it. This looks like a serious issue.

 

I bought cash, they wanted 8 i had 6 cash so i got it as take as is, how could pass that up, car is in mint condition, except for that. Im gonna have to figure it out , but the people on here have been great, i appreciate that. Hopefully you guys follow me with this, as i dig deeper.

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Got any better pictures maybe some with light in it?

What part of the intake is missing?

 

The MAF wiring messed like that and out of the loom make me suspect a possible modification for speed density tuning. It's not clear though but as battleready mentioned the wires aren't meant to route that way nor are you meant to throw all those codes without a serious issue. 546 may indicate high EGT's and lean fuel... 30x codes all misfires - lean fuel can be air getting in so lets see where that part of the duct is open?

 

Please stop doing 'reasonably high velocity' if you want any chance to keep a 'deal of the century'

 

Also take alook at my power steering pump wire that looks like its grounded seems like alittle leak, tried to get as many pictures to give an idea of how they wired it up? Thanks again guys

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This is a little outside my expertise, but I'm wondering what the wiring looks like under the loom, near the maf sensor. Also, if you're referring to the ground wire I circled in red, I wouldn't worry about that. I've attached some fsm pages that hopefully should help, but again, I'm not too familiar with troubleshooting maf sensors.

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ground.thumb.jpg.2d5fc94a87865e2a6f797cec16fac088.jpg

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  • I Donated Too
I am just going to chime in here because I have been trying to follow this and been confused by the repeated use of "power steering pump" because I know there is no grounding wire on the power steering pump, it's grounded by the grace of being bolted directly to the engine and it's no where near that wire. OP are you confusing the ABS pump as a power steering pump because it's right next to the power steering reservoir? Power steering pump is on front of engine directly left of the alternator.
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So we just resetted the ecl via battery terminal, now what happens is when i accelerate the flashing the check engine light starts blinking then i just slow down and it stops. So confused again, going to get more codes tomorrow.
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Your car is misfiring. Disconnecting the battery isn't going to fix your issue(s). I still think you need to dig deeper into that maf sensor. Can you stream live data with the scan tool? If so, what is the maf reading (volume) at idle? Now, tap the gas a few times and check to see that the reading INSTANTLY starts jumping up. If the reading stays the same or is very slow to react then it could be bad.
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Ok so I was thinking it had to be something to do with the spark plugs or coils. I live in P.R so there isn't a huge amount of subarus out here, lots of bmw's benzes dont get my wrong. Anyhow on purchasing sparkplugs then getting my codes read again, same misfire codes and tailpipe sensor, soembody on the island happened to pull up in a white subaru wrx sti. Looked my dads way they talked, said he was a subaru mechanic,we bought the plugs and he took the car to his house. 5 hours later fixed, the plugs that were already in the car were half an inch shorter than the ones i bought, they were like almost 12 dollars a piece, iridium . Not sure if he replaced the coils or not, but he fixed the car, pretty sure now it was faulty spark plugs. Thanks everyone, this site is great, everyone has been very helpful.
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