cSlenker802 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 So here goes my rebuild thread. This has been a long time coming but I finally have enough time to share my experiences. I will start with saying that this is not so much of a rebuild but more of a long block swap. Still a new engine build either way you look at it! My story all began in the late fall of 2015. I bought my legacy in October from a third party I found on Craigslist. I am a high school student and this was my first turbo charged car. Long story short I drove over 8 hours round trip from VT to ME and spent all my hard earned money on this car (I know someone will say it if I don't, I bought this car 100% on my own and is entirely my investment. MY PARENTS DID NOT BUY THIS FOR ME). I bought the car in good running condition with supposedly 14,000 miles on a new 255 shortblock and rebuild. As I said earlier this was my first time with a turbo car and although I didn't know much at the time I could tell there was nothing majorly f**ked when I bought it. The car had a nice list of stage 2 mods (UP, DP, Short Throw, ACT clutch set up, ect + unknown tune- I know lol ) and I was stoked! I fell in love driving the car for the following months and had absolutely no issues until the cold winter weather. Once the temperature started to be constantly below 0 outside at night, where my car lives since there is not an open spot in my garage, I began to have issues with a rough idle/misfire. I immediately began trouble shooting with help from this forum and checked all the obvious. Cleaned MAF, new plugs, no vacuum leaks, swapped + cleaned injectors, etc with no change from the cylinder 4 misfire I was having. At this point I decided to take it to a local mechanic and have them take a look. There they performed a compression test which came back as follows- Cylinder 1+2- 135psi, Cylinder 3- 132psi, and Cylinder 4- 120psi. Next up was a leak down; Nothing from the exhaust, and in the trouble cylinders (3,4) it was close to 20%. Also air could be heard moving in the crank case. At this point I had the expected OH SHIT moment and started doing my research on rebuilds. I did not have the budget for a shop to rebuild the engine so it was either sell the car or do it on my own. I take classes at my schools technical center and considered doing the rebuild myself, but I would have to wait until next fall to start (as I would have to switch programs). At this point I was at the conclusion that I needed to sell the car so to Craigslist it went. I really did not want to sell it, but seemly had no other options. I got shitty cash + trade offers which did not interest me, but I also got a response from a local(ish) mechanic who suggested I look into a swap instead. After a TON of research on various JDM swaps and engine compatibility I brought my leggy down and had my engine pulled. Before anyone jumps on me for spending similar money for a swap as a rebuild, my mechanic just opened his shop and was willing to do the labor of the job for a very very very reasonable price if I provided all the parts. I will say right now have full trust in his work and he is now a close friend of mine. I found a great deal on a rebuilt ej257 long block ($1500 with trading in my old block) and jumped on it. The new long block has all the paperwork to go along with it including a receipt from the machine shop for the honing + clearances and all the parts that went into it. The long block build is as follows- 2007 STI (257) block halfs, STI heat treated crank, stock legacy rods, acl main+rod bearings, oem pistons, new rings, valves, shims, gaskets, etc. All new timing componets, oil pump, water pump, avcs gears also. I watched the builder perform a leak down in front of me and even though the rings are not seated yet, it is on point. I have been waiting on parts (gaskets + new clutch/flywheel set up), but as I speak my engine is assembled and is being put back into the car. Still to this day, after contacting the original owner many times about it, I am unsure of the original ecu tune, but I now have a brand new v3 cobb accessport and will be going to the stage 2 map immediately. Once broken in I will be taking it to a dyno near me (probably at bren) I'll include pictures below and will continue to upload them as the build progresses. Although this process was in no way easy, I did end up saving some money over doing a full rebuild:). Should finish the build at around 3k with a new long block, clutch, all the gaskets and fluids, and the AP. Feel free to ask any questions, i'm sure i'm forgetting some things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Well sounds like you've learned a lot. The one thing I would recommend is you contact my Tuner, Mike Kinsman of www.tuningalliance.com he uses the dyno at ESP in Sterling MA. Its a bit closer, I believe and you will get a better tune. FWIW, I'm in Ludlow VT every winter weekend. Mike has tuned both my cars. He's that good. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 ^Awsome thanks I'll check him out for sure! And yes this whole thing's been a great (but pricy) learning experience lol. Can't wait to get the car back this weekend. also stoaked to hear there's other members around me...Let's hope for a better winter next year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yea, I skied today, talking with local friends...there may not be much snow left in a couple weeks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Bad news. New engine was fired for the first time today and threw miss fire codes for 2+4. The engine has new coils and spark plugs so that is not the issue. Compression all around is low at about 125 psi. Luckily I do have a warrante on the engine for the initial start up so I have contacted the builder. According to him this is normal since the rings are not yet seated. My mechanic has also spoken to him and they have conflicting oppinions of the issue (of course). The builder claims that after running the engine and letting the rings seat the compression should go up. My mechanic says he let it idle for almost 1.5 hours and no change in the missfire. He believes it to be an internal issue and will be doing a leak down tomorrow. I am unsure of where to go from here and any help would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I thought you weren't supposed to let it idle or cruise for long periods. Genuinely curious. I'm putting together my startup routing for this weekend. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 The plan I was going to do was 10 miles on conventional then oil change. Then to 100 on conventional then change. Then to 500 conventional. If there is no longer any metallic tint or metal pieces (obviously) go to synthetic at 500. But since mine was miss fireing from the get go my mechanic says he let it idle to let the rings seat. Not sure how I feel about that. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Load and vacuum are supposed to be what makes the rings seat. Pushes them into the cylinder walls. Accell, lift off accel, lift off.... Some folks go straight to the dyno or strip. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Load and vacuum are supposed to be what makes the rings seat. Pushes them into the cylinder walls. Accell, lift off accel, lift off.... Some folks go straight to the dyno or strip. ^Gotcha that's why I'm concerned about him letting it just idle. After talking to my mechanic more he claims he was trying to get it to throw a code so he could investigate the miss fire issue. Personally I have an issue believing the internals of my engine are the issue, as my mechanic is saying. I watched each cylinder get leak downed when I bought it and it was dead on at 0. The compression (125psi so about 40 off) seems to me to be caused by the rings not being seated... My old coil packs were hacked on causing them to melt so I truly think that it is the issue. If the leak down today shows its not internal my bets on the wiring harness. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Success! As I suspected it was not an internal issue and is all in the wiring harness. After a few hours of tracing wires we fixed the miss fire. All cause the guy I got it from did a half ass hack job slicing the wires. Now for the break in! Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Do you know why the wires were cut in the first place? Because of the melted coil packs? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Wow glad it was something simple. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Do you know why the wires were cut in the first place? Because of the melted coil packs? Wires were cut and spiced back together by the guy I got the car from so it's been like that the whole time I've owned it. We noticed the hacked wires when we were dealing with the melted coil packs... I'm assuming it was done when he put the first engine in for some reason or another. Not a clue what he was thinking probably just being lazy smh. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSlenker802 Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Wow glad it was something simple. Same here just gotta track down a new wiring harness and I'll be in business! Went to check it out today and it's running like a champ with the wires just soldered together... Too bad that's only a short term fix. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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