3.6R Maintenance

[GhiaAddict]

To all my fellow 3.6R owners, my vehicle has a little over 70k miles and I am wondering what if any are the big maintenance items I should start preparing for.

 

I already intend on upgrading to full synthethic, change out transmission and diff fluids. Should I replace radiator fluid, etc?

[legacyshawn]

Full transmission fluid change, front and rear diff fluids with amsoil synthetic.

Radiator flush with either subaru blue or peak fleet charge

spark plugs (NGK iridium or iridium lasers)

check the idler bearings on the serpentine for any wobble or roughness

check serpentine belt for wear (replace if needed)

check front inner CV axle boots for rips/tears

[NORULZleggy]

Full transmission fluid change, front and rear diff fluids with amsoil synthetic. - Great choice!!!

Radiator flush - Amsoil has rad fluid it is $$$

spark plugs (NGK iridium or iridium lasers) - iriduims for sure!!

check the idler bearings on the serpentine for any wobble or roughness

check serpentine belt for wear (replace if needed)

check front inner CV axle boots for rips/tears

 

Spot on, and I do this for many car's. Oh and please check your oil once a week or 3 times a month. What happen to people pooping the hood now days .

[Regacy]

Guy rules dictate that the hood shall be opened weekly - even when there is no compelling reason.

[NORULZleggy]

Guy rules dictate that the hood shall be opened weekly - even when there is no compelling reason.

Damn right, had an inlaw tell me his girls car smelled bad and I asked when is the last time he checked the oil. he said it was the last time we changed it . Well the dip stick was dry. I told him park it go to the store and add 4 quarts. it's still running .

 

If your a guy and do not pop you hood once a week, you have a vagina. plain and simple . I check all fluids on Fridays and misc inspections every months. This is how found I needed CV shafts.

[Rhitter]

What if I pop the hood weekly on my Subaru and never on my Honda?

 

Do I still get to have a vagina?

[GhiaAddict]

What if for the last 6 years you were able to drive pretty much every new car on the market for free, free gas, free insurance, and all maintenance performed for free? Would you still have a vagina, even if you beat on the cars like they were your own? That was my scenario for the last 6 years.

 

Its what brought me to the world of Subaru as well. Except we didn't have the 3.6R just regular 2.5 Limited. Favorite car was the new Ecoboost 2.3L turbo Mustang. Yet I just had a baby so no 2-seater for me.

 

Although to keep myself from growing a vagina, my father and I have been building a 1970 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia slowly when time permits for the past 5-6 years. Its the original flat four engine.

 

I do plan on doing all maintenance myself now that I actually own a car. Just bought my Legacy 3.6R less than 2 months ago and it had 69K on the odometer.

[NORULZleggy]

What if I pop the hood weekly on my Subaru and never on my Honda?

 

Do I still get to have a vagina?

 

Depends on the Honda, if it is a daily turd with 200k miles that you do not car about then no. If it is a newer one then maybe. I pop the hood on my RSX-S with 155K miles all the time.

In general if you are a true car person, you should be under the hood. People who say they are, then I asked them when is the last time they changed their own brake fluid, tranny fluid, or their own brakes. they are dumb founded.

[NORULZleggy]

What if for the last 6 years you were able to drive pretty much every new car on the market for free, free gas, free insurance, and all maintenance performed for free? Would you still have a vagina. YES QUOTE]

[NORULZleggy]

It's sweet that you get to drive a new ride for that long. But that does not mean it could not have burned all the oil up on a fluke. I am the kinda person who loves to drive my cars till the motor just lays down. lolol

 

Then I will look for a used car to bring back to life.

 

I kinda want a 92 Sentra SE-R.

[west_minist]

To all my fellow 3.6R owners, my vehicle has a little over 70k miles and I am wondering what if any are the big maintenance items I should start preparing for.

 

I already intend on upgrading to full synthethic, change out transmission and diff fluids. Should I replace radiator fluid, etc?

 

Sounding all good. If the fluid looks dirty, you should. But really no need to. Is it the red or green one?

[Timothy.B]

Here's my write up from when I did my change:

 

Oil Change:

Oil Filter Part # 15208AA031

Crush Gasket Part# 11126AA000

17mm Socket

8 Quarts of 5w-40 Full Synthetic

(~ 6.9 Qts for the change and 1 Qt for any consumption)

Torque Wrench (32.5 lb/Ft)

 

Transmission Drain N' Fill:

Crush washer/gasket Part# 11126AA050

14mm Socket

5 Quarts Amsoil Signature Series ATF Fluid (Only used about 4)

Torque Wrench (14.8 lb/Ft)

 

Front Diff:

Crush washer/gasket Part# 803926090

T-70 Torx Bit

Torque Wrench (51.6 lb/Ft)

Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 GL-5: 3 pints (though I believe I only used around 2.7)

 

Rear Diff:

Crush washer/gasket Part# 803918060

10mm Hex Bit (for the drain plug)

10mm Hex Bit (for fill plug)

Torque Wrench (36.9 lb/Ft) Drain Plug and Filler Plug

Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 GL-5: 1.7 pints.

[Timothy.B]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wqH03iBuxY]3.0 H6 Spark Plug Change[/ame]

 

Found this on the YTubes. Looks like it'd be the same procedure for the 3.6. While I was at the dealer I had them quote me for the spark plug change that I'll need in 15k miles. $580. I think I'll save my money and just do it myself Also said the fuel filter was non-serviceable for my model year which was a relief because I don't wanna know how much that was gonna cost.

[Thinking out side box]

50/50 mix from the auto parts store, with the rust stuff. Also it should turn and you might have to finagle it up to come off. Do not over think it, the drain and refill is easy. Also make sure you burp the system with the cap off so you will get most of the air out of the system. If it over flows a ton that fine, just add more and it will calm down. just give it time.

 

BTW shut the car off after you see minimal bubbles, add the cap, start back up and drive for 15 mins. If it over heats then you have air, but I never had an issue.

[Timothy.B]

Wanted to bump this thread up since I just did the plugs on my 3.6. I used the NGK SILFR6C11A Spark Plugs

Tools

3/8 Plug Socket (with a rubber boot)

3/8 Ratchet

1/4 Ratchet

1/4 10mm and 12mm deep well

10mm wrench (for one little nut on the airbox)

3/8 U-Joint adapter

3/8 6" Extension

1/4 6" extension or use 3/8 12mm, whatever works.

Small Flat Head Screwdriver for coilpack clips (very carefully pry them up, you can break them easily. I was lucky enough not to)

Large Flat Head for intake clamps

Needle Nose Pliers

 

Start with removing:

The Battery, negative then positive terminals. 10mm socket. Also the battery lockdown that uses 10mm.

The snorkel to the air box, two plastic rivets

The MAF sensor plug

Slide off the power steering pump hose from the air box

Needle nose pliers to remove clip for MAF sensor wire

Remove intake hose from the airbox

Two bolts secure the box, one 10mm towards the headlamp and one at the bottom middle near the engine

 

Alright, you can see the coilpacks.

 

http://i.imgur.com/3BPKFJf.jpg

 

Doesn't look so bad now, huh? I removed the metal brackets on each side that hold the coilpack wires up. This can be a hindrance and a help at the same time. Not sure which was more. (2) 10mm bolts hold them on.

 

The packs are held on with 12mm bolts. Used the 1/4 12mm socket to make switching back and forth quick. The bolts thread out forever and ever and ever so get used to hand loosening. Slide the pack straight off. You're gonna use the 6" extension and 3/8 ratchet for the first four plugs closest to the radiator. Bust it loose and after a few cranks, you can hand loosen the plug out. Best to double check that all the gaps are correct on the new plugs before installation. Subaru spec is .38 - .43.

 

Now, for torquing the plugs, there's a two ways. There's torque specs on the NGK site and in the manual but I just crushed the washer, and when it crushed, gave it another 1/2 to 2/3 turn. Some will agree to this and some are probably shaking their head as I speak. I didn't have an inch/lb torque wrench handy. Not sure how you'd even get one on the rear ones anyways. I didn't use anti-seize on the plugs. NGK suggests not to as it can lead to over torquing. I didn't have much issue busting loose the old plugs and a few others said they never used anti-seize and haven't had any issues, given the zinc plating on the plugs prevent it. I believe as long as you don't wait 100k miles to change the plugs again, it should be fine.

 

Some of the coilpacks might give you issue getting them back in. Make sure they're in correctly and snug. I re-attached the packs and connectors as I went. Make sure they *click* back on. (6.6 lb/Ft is the torque specs)

 

The back ones is where it gets tricky. The packs can only come out one way. It's best to remember this. When you pull them out, twist them a bit more than 90 degrees and lift it out. That's the only way it'll go back in. The first one I was dumbfounded because the pack literally does not fit between the rail and the valve covers unless in the very right spot.

 

For the plug, you can use the 6" extension and it's best done with a ratchet that falls out easily. There's no room to hit the release button. You could try using a screwdriver to push the button but, hey, that's up to you. As soon as it's loose, you can use the U-Joint attached to that a lot more easily. The 6" itself will only go so far (go ahead and laugh) before bumping the rail. I just left the U-joint on and hand loosened it the rest of the way out. Reverse order, plug, plug socket and U-Joint, hand tighten it for days and days and days, then once the washer is against the wall, switch to the 6" extension to tighten it down.

 

Double check that all the packs are bolted down, packs connected, wire brackets in place and reverse order the box and battery back together. Make sure MAF sensor connector is secure before battery is connected. I took the liberty of cleaning the MAF since it was out anyways and glanced at the filter. Take account for all tools.

 

Disconnecting the battery may reset the ECU in the amount of time but I went ahead and reset it anyways. After that, fire her up. Have a beer, a cuppa tea, whatever you fancy. Be happy that you didn't give the dealer your arm, your leg and your left ear.

 

I do the typical relearn procedure when I reset. Turn car on (don't start) wait 15 seconds, off 15 seconds, on 15 seconds, off 15 seconds on 15 seconds, then start. Let it idle for a few minutes then take a careful drive around (usually around 10 minutes the IAM will return to where it should be.

 

Overall, it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought. If it had been 70F out, had a constant supply of cold water, I might actually enjoyed it.

 

I hope this helps fellow future 3.6 plug changers.

 

Also should note, lay the plugs out in relation to the engine. 1-3-5 is the passenger side, 1 being closest to the radiator. 2-4-6 for driver side. 2 closest to the radiator. Take a pic for easy reference later. Found that one plug was much worse than the others, helped pinpoint an unknown issue.

[RustyRuu]

Also said the fuel filter was non-serviceable for my model year which was a relief because I don't wanna know how much that was gonna cost.

 

it is definitely serviceable, its a sock filter sort of set up that usually just comes on a new fuel pump assembly.

 

i think you can buy it separate somewhere but don't think subaru sells them separate from the fuel pump assembly you would need to find a kit online or something.

 

correct me if im wrong because i probably am

[dgoodhue]

Also said the fuel filter was non-serviceable for my model year which was a relief because I don't wanna know how much that was gonna cost.

 

 

it is definitely serviceable, its a sock filter sort of set up that usually just comes on a new fuel pump assembly.

 

i think you can buy it separate somewhere but don't think subaru sells them separate from the fuel pump assembly you would need to find a kit online or something.

 

correct me if im wrong because i probably am

 

The fuel filter was listed in my 60k maintenance, so I did the fuel filter assembly in my '12 2.5i. It was ~$100 sub assembly part for the 2.5i. I don't remember if it was the same part number for the 3.6R.

 

Here is a picture of the filter assembly and a couple quick install notes from when I did mine. Basically to access the fuel pump, you access it from the passenger rear access panel under the rear seat (which just pulls out.)

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5398258&postcount=21816

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5399028&postcount=21829

[Timothy.B]

It seems to be half and half. I've asked guys with the 3.0R and they say they don't mess with it til over 100k miles. Also heard that it's left alone until there's any fuel delivery issues. Maybe at 80k miles or something I'll replace it for good measure.

[SiLegacy]

Timothy B. can you confirm that oil drain plug torque specification is 18 lb/ft for 5th generation Legacy with 3.6L engine? It sounds really low.

[Timothy.B]

You're right! I went off of what a tutorial on the Outback forums said. I'll change it.

 

"5) Tighten the engine oil drain plug after draining engine oil. NOTE: Use a new drain plug gasket. Tightening torque: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 32.5 ft-lb)"

 

I fixed the transmission drain plug to 14.8 from 18 lb/Ft. Everything else is listed from the manual itself. Need to start double checking peoples numbers I guess