Energyblue98 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Sprung a leak this morning driving to work, don't know what exactly yet but i would assume it's the top radiator hose. I think the leak is just a symptom, not a cause of the problem. I believe the car overheated first (causing pressure to build up that popped the hose off). I had to leave my car at a gas station and get a ride to work, after work I'm going to get a coolant pressure tester and confirm the leak and fix that, but i'm worried it's just going to happen again. How would i find out what caused the overheating in the first place? Waterpump was just changed with a gates 15k miles ago and it's got OEM subaru coolant with conditioner. Little backstory, my heat hasn't been working when the car idles. only when driving. This has been happening for a few months now, so perhaps it's a blockage in the heater core or radiator that caused the over heating? Another backstory, if i let the car sit and idle for a while i can watch the temp go up past 210 (fans are both running) and it keeps climbing, typically tops out around 225. until today, where i saw it hit 244 before i turned the car off and coasted now the highway with a pillow of smoke behind me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 How many miles on the car? Could be the head gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 How many miles on the car? Could be the head gaskets. 130k, compression test and leak down at 100k was passed with flying colors, coolant is bright green. no oil mixed. oil is also golden, no milky mixture. always warm up the car til the blue light is gone (135 degrees) before driving. highly doubt that it's the head gaskets. My current guess is that I have air int he coolant system causing it to not heat the cabin at idle under i get the water pump moving faster (when the cars moving) and it mustve gotten to a point where there's too much air in the system and it ended up getting hot fast and thus building pressure in the system to a point that it blew the upper radiator hose loose. (I HOPING). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I had similar issues. No signs of headgasket until it started to overheat - clean oil, clean rad fluid, had the system pressure tested, no smoke, etc.. - got 3/4 up the needle instead of sitting just below the half mark. Problem was it took a good 20 mile drive with the last 7 or so being mountain roads before I would see any signs, drive around town, freeway, etc.. no issues whatsoever. Also heater and A/C worked fine. I flushed the system twice and burped it. I could tell there was an issue as I could never fully burp the system and bubble would stop, but then come up again at the turbo reservoir. Also changed the thermostat. Ended having both heads cracked. This is what is concerning: Little backstory, my heat hasn't been working when the car idles. only when driving. This has been happening for a few months now, so perhaps it's a blockage in the heater core or radiator that caused the over heating? Another backstory, if i let the car sit and idle for a while i can watch the temp go up past 210 (fans are both running) and it keeps climbing, typically tops out around 225. until today, where i saw it hit 244 before i turned the car off and coasted now the highway with a pillow of smoke behind me. Looks like the car is overheating as the operating temps I believe are around 180-190. And the smoke behind the car. And no heat. I would flush the radiator, change the thermostat (those these are not supposed to die easily) and burp the system - get a funnel that fits the turbo res or the burping kit from amazon. Unless someone else has another suggestion. Also a slight debate on the forums - no need to warm the car up until the blue light comes on, give it 30 sec to a minute and start driving it to warm up quicker and less wear, just stay out of boost. I'm sure someone else will chime in since I am no expert on these matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 130k, compression test and leak down at 100k was passed with flying colors, coolant is bright green. no oil mixed. oil is also golden, no milky mixture. always warm up the car til the blue light is gone (135 degrees) before driving. highly doubt that it's the head gaskets. You can still pass a compression test with a slight HG leak. My LGT did... do a couple of 4th gear pulls, then pull over and look for bubbles in the coolant overflow tank. If you're pushing exhaust gasses, that's one place they'd show up. You don't need to have coolant/oil mixed, either, as not all HG failures are in spots where they'd mix. Do you really wait until the blue light goes off before driving? That's a lot of wasted gas, with zero benefit. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Checking your FB post, looks like you found a cracked radiator end-tank. Phew! LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 Yeah i'm still thinking the problem is just that i didnt bleed the system last time i changed the coolant. I did a pressure test on it just now and found my radiator end tank was split. So i'm going to get a new radiator, don't know if thats a symptom or a cause though. Also, mishimoto or koyo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.