SuperhawkLGT Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Anyone replaced the rear wheel bearings themselves? A lot of work? Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Mac Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Not too bad really. While hub will need to come off whether just replacing the bearing or the entire thing. Only thing you'll potentially find difficult is getting the hub off the driveshaft, can be pretty stuck on there. I used a block of wood and a hammer to give it a jolt to break it free. Just put the nut back on the shaft backwards to make sure you do not damage the thread at all Obviously thats the front but thats where you want to giving the shaft a whack to break free http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o594/andy_mac1/DE1D28C6-8D32-4E9C-A4B8-A12CF4DC7111_zpsjikythm2.jpg Also if you still have stock rotors you may want to get a couple of bolts to thread into the spare holes on the rotor for helping break that free aswell, they are M8 x1.25mm. Made a huge difference getting them off 2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD 2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread 2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperhawkLGT Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Cool thanks for all the info, very helpful. Just found this. http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/diy-4th-gen-legacy-rear-14125.html? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmowry Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Just did left rear last weekend. There is a good youtube vid for an 05 Leg wagon rear bearing. The scoobymods link works too. One thing to note. I used a Timkin bearing and the bore (only the opening to access the axle nut) of the new bearing was slightly smaller than the OEM bearing it replaced. So when I took off the OEM axle nut with the 32 mm socket it was no problem but when I tried to put it back on the new bearing, my socket wouldn't fit! Make sure your 32 mm socket fits in the new bearing bore. FWIW this was a MAC impact 32mm. It has a pretty thick wall. I ended up borrowing my neighbors 1 1/4 socket and having to tap it on the nut since it's slightly smaller. It barely fit in the bore. Not sure if it is an issue with other bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperhawkLGT Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 The video on Youtube by the orange haired guy was useful when I did mine recently. You'll need a breaker bar. Place on 32mm nut and step on it to break the nut free. You'll also need a new 32mm nut to do it right. It was awkward to get at the four bolts on the rear of the assembly and I had to use an assortment of extensions and U-joints. I bought a set of wobble extensions after that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 rears can be tough due to rust build up and the e-brake assembly in the way. worse comes to worse, you have to take the trailing arm off the car and do it on the bench since alot of hammering and prying will be necessary to pop out that hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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